Hey folks, just like the title says. I am trying to decide on whether to buy the $50 injector rebuild kit or buy 2 new injectors for $200+. Any benefits? Also, keep in mind I really dont want to take the entire throttle body assembly off the engine. Seems to be easy enough to replace the injectors, though dissembling the injector to replace the gaskets, screen filter doesnt seem that bad though never done it before, so hoping to get some input from you crossfire guys.

1984 stock.
Thanks!

 

Send the throttle bodys to fuelinjectorconnection.com.

 

I guess I have to ask...Why do you need new injectors? There are no rebuild kits for the injectors, just the rebuild kit for the TBs. I would purchase the rebuild kit and then purchase two new injectors if you are going to replace them. Easy job really.

GP Sorensen/Throttle Body Rebuild Kit (TBI) (AutoZone)
1982/84 Chevrolet Corvette 5.7L TBI 8cyl
Part Number: 96-629

 

Hey Buccaneer, hope you are doing well. So, the car is running pretty well now and is reliable after replacing the fuel pump relay and the wiring harness. That was another story. Reason why I am looking at working on the injectors is just like everything else on the car, age and think the spray pattern could be better.
Thank you for those part numbers! Didn't realize could purchase the rebuild kit from the "Zone".

@larryinalabama Thinks for that tip, I will look them up.
Take care

 

I am glad this subject has come up. I believe my injectors on my crossfire need rebuilding. Both sprays have a slight drip and the car has a miss in the engine under idle and acceleration. I did a vacuum test and it shows no leaks.. What mechanical level is required in doing this a TB rebuild?. Right now I am thinking or going the $600.00 to $800.00 repair shop route. I do have some mechanical ability but I do not want to ruin the car or set it on fire.

 

its pretty simple... the regulator is a little tricky but the whole thing can be done with a c-clamp and screwdriver... if you can comfortably pull apart something like a Briggs carbuerator this is a cake walk imo.

Also, does it drip car off and fuel pump running? The injectors are pretty robust... if you have a nice cone pattern with a drip I'd lean more toward a bad injector oring.

 

Good, thanks. Just got back from vacation. The GP Sorensen kit is a good solid kit and have used it for decades now. You will have to order it from Autozone, but only takes a day or two. Good luck.

 

It does not drip with car off fuel pump running. Does that mean the injectors are bad? When the car is running the cone is there but both TB's do drip in the mist of the cone. Car stalls on cold idle and will bog down on acceleration. No vacuum leaks according to vacuum test gauge.

 

If you have a way of checking BLM (fuel trims) I'd try that... I'd say it sounds like there may be an issue though

 

I still think you have one of three issues...Either you have the injector seals are bad or the injectors are bad or both. It would be an easy task to just pull the injectors and have them tested and see if they are ok and if so...replace the two small o-rings on the injectors. I'm willing to bet its one of those. GL.

 

How difficult is it to take out the injectors? I am somewhat mechanical and can do things like tune ups, water pumps, changed most of the sensors on the car and mounted and resealed the Xram intake. Does a whole bunch of springs and stuff come flying out of the throttle body one the top comes off. I know there are video's for newer GM and Ford cars with throttle body repair but is the Crossfire more difficult? I would hate to have to have the car towed to a shop in pieces.

 

those 5 screws on the top of the throttle body that the wire runs across to the injector... pull out those then remove the lid and the injector... the rebuild kit has a diagram in it iirc. If I was home I'd upload a scan. I'll dig around and see if I can find anything.

Found it.

post 7.

 

Here is an exploded view of the TBs. It is pretty simple actually. Just take your time and ONLY do one TB at a time. The injectors are different sizes, the diaphragms are different along with the large springs. Don't mix them up. BTW... The GM service manual shows you how to remove and install the injectors. Hope this helps you out.

 

[QUOTE=Buccaneer;1603747107]Here is an exploded view of the TBs. It is pretty simple actually. Just take your time and ONLY do one TB at a time. The injectors are different sizes, the diaphragms are different along with the large springs. Don't mix them up. BTW... The GM service manual shows you how to remove and install the injectors. Hope this helps you out.


[/QUOTYes Thank You, but a new much bigger problem now exists, and may be the cause of main problem. Number one mistake I changed the coolant temp sensor as my first cure last week. I thought I was wise by putting plumbers tape on the sensor. Then I found a post of yours that said DO NOT put plumbers tape on the coolant temp sensor. So I pulled out the sensor and thought maybe my problems were solved. No so. This car has its original timing chain at 156,000 miles. I tried to setiting the timing and I cannot find the line on the pulley. It is chalked and in plain sight.when the engine is off. I moved that distributor about 2 inches in both directions and no mark to line up with plate on engine block. I fear the worst. The car jumped timing. However the mystery is the vacuum gauge at idle showed in normal range. I took a closer look at my fuel cones with a bright flash light and now I do NOT see any drippings. It is possible that low idle would cause the cone to drip? This car is becoming more of a mystery everyday. I am so tempted to take it to a shop and have a carb conversion. It already has the Weiand Accelerator intake on the block. Since I can't do the timing chain myself as this is above my mechanical skills that may be my next fix. Just be done with the whole craziness,

 

[QUOTE=ps374;1603747522]is it the timing chain or did the balancer just slip... the rubber dries out and the outer ring spins on the hub a bit... then the timing mark won't line up. I'd more than likely suspect that as the issue.

 

[QUOTE=84 4+3;1603749098]Thank you I will have to check that. I hope that is the problem. Otherwise it is a $1200.00 fix. I got a quote several months ago from a shop I had used in the past to repair broken motor mounts.

 

WOW! That's a shame, once BUBBA gets in there with their better ideas, things get wonky for sure. It may take some time to figure out what has been done and what needs to be fixed to get it back to normal again. I just went through this with a guy on an 82, but with patience and a few parts we got it back to where it is now running better than ever, which included an ECM change and new tune. Like Paul mentioned, is it that the balancer has slipped? If you do not have an 84 GM shop manual, I HIGHLY suggest that you get one. It has lots of good info in there on troubleshooting, let alone the diagrams.

Just out of curiosity, did you pull the EST wire before you tried to adjust the timing? I hope so...