AC Blowing Hot
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
AC Blowing Hot
I have a 91 vet that has had AC issues in the past. I remember a few years back, the compressor did not engage.
I was told to pull the courtesy light fuse and wait a minute and put back in. Then start car and the compressor would engage.
This actually worked several times.
However, not sure if i am doing this right again since AC is still blowing hot.
Anyone else remember this quick fix??
Thanks
I was told to pull the courtesy light fuse and wait a minute and put back in. Then start car and the compressor would engage.
This actually worked several times.
However, not sure if i am doing this right again since AC is still blowing hot.
Anyone else remember this quick fix??
Thanks
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,965
Likes: 343
From: Shell Point (Crawfordville) Florida
If the compressor is not engaging one of the reasons is that you are really low on freon and unless you can get the compressor engaged and spinning, you cannot fill up the system. You need the compressor on to do that.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,475
Likes: 3,291
From: Hartford WI
Can he just run 12v to it? If there is gas, maybe he can get someone to find and fix the leak instead of filling it again and again?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Hi, the clutch attempts to engage at 3 second intervals for about a minute and then stops. Won't stay on.
As per manual, i pulled the ctsy and radio fuses with car off. Keep them out for a minute and reinstall.
Turn on car and that is when the clutch try's to engage. Belt is turning.
Any ideas?
As per manual, i pulled the ctsy and radio fuses with car off. Keep them out for a minute and reinstall.
Turn on car and that is when the clutch try's to engage. Belt is turning.
Any ideas?
Last edited by fnataro; Jul 31, 2021 at 12:11 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,192
Likes: 750
From: near the thumb in the mitten
I will assume car has c68 or automatic climate control. The c68 does have self diagnosis feature. Removing and replacing fuse would clear codes. YouTube has videos about c68.
You need to find out how much " freon" is in system. R12 either r12 gauge set a high pressure fuel gauge will work in a pinch, reading low side, should equal ambient temp if engine is cold. R134a gauge is probably part of the DIY rental tools at parts store. Under 30 psi it's low on refrigerant, if you never have added it could be normal loss. If it still using R12 retrofitting to 134a and adding dye would be a reasonable 1st step. If already retrofitted add 134a with dye and when AC stops cooling look for leak. If it's not low adding more refrigerant will cause different problems.
if air mix door isn't working correctly AC may not cool cabin but should set c68 fault code.
You need to find out how much " freon" is in system. R12 either r12 gauge set a high pressure fuel gauge will work in a pinch, reading low side, should equal ambient temp if engine is cold. R134a gauge is probably part of the DIY rental tools at parts store. Under 30 psi it's low on refrigerant, if you never have added it could be normal loss. If it still using R12 retrofitting to 134a and adding dye would be a reasonable 1st step. If already retrofitted add 134a with dye and when AC stops cooling look for leak. If it's not low adding more refrigerant will cause different problems.
if air mix door isn't working correctly AC may not cool cabin but should set c68 fault code.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Yes it appears to be automatic climate control. I don't believe i have ever added freon to this system.
I will start as you suggest, since pulling fuses does seem to clear it, but won't stay on.
Thank you
I will start as you suggest, since pulling fuses does seem to clear it, but won't stay on.
Thank you
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Pro
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 689
Likes: 245
From: Spokane Wa.
I would advise against using freon with stop leak. It has a tendency to gum things up and cause more problems. Kind of like putting stop leak in your radiator. I've seen cases where the expansion valve gets stuck from using stop leak and that isn't something you want to be replacing if you can help it.$$ Most AC shops don't want to work on systems that have this in it as it plugs up the expensive filter in their machine. Use some dye and find where the leak is and fix that before recharging.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 119
Likes: 19
From: Aberdeen Washington
That’s old advise for old technology. The new type stop leak product like Blue Devil is very compatible with many types of Freon as it’s oil based and compatible with ester oils etc. Many AC Techs now use it in new installations to prevent any new leaks. Causes no harm makes
permanent repairs and completely cycles without any clogging and fully compatible with Freon discharger/service machines. I have used it on many cars and aircraft AC systems for a long time, never an issue.
permanent repairs and completely cycles without any clogging and fully compatible with Freon discharger/service machines. I have used it on many cars and aircraft AC systems for a long time, never an issue.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 119
Likes: 19
From: Aberdeen Washington
If you can’t find the leak easily and want to find it with or without dye you can get a AC LEAK DETECTOR (harbor freight) it has a flexible wand and runs like a giger counter sound until it smells Freon, then sings out loudly. Helps find hard to find leaks.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,965
Likes: 343
From: Shell Point (Crawfordville) Florida
Just find the leak and repair it instead of applying bandaids like some sort of stop-leak.
One easy place to look and a common source of leaks, in addition to the various seals around the system, is the high pressure (as well as low) fill port. Just remove the black plastic protective cap over it, drip in a little water or soapy water or saliva, and see if any bubbles come out. Tightening or replacing those Schrader valves sometimes solves the problem. If you remove and replace one you will have to evacuate the system and totally refill it, or get the tool that enables you to remove the valve stem without opening up the system.
One easy place to look and a common source of leaks, in addition to the various seals around the system, is the high pressure (as well as low) fill port. Just remove the black plastic protective cap over it, drip in a little water or soapy water or saliva, and see if any bubbles come out. Tightening or replacing those Schrader valves sometimes solves the problem. If you remove and replace one you will have to evacuate the system and totally refill it, or get the tool that enables you to remove the valve stem without opening up the system.