I found a pretty decent set of sawblades for my 87. I have read many threads here about wheel adapters and I think I have a firm grasp on finding the correct size and spec. What I haven’t seen much of (unless I have missed it) are recommendations on a brand or manufacturer. Obviously being a critical component I’d like to find ones I don’t have to worry about as far as reliability and I don’t mind paying more for that. I’ve seen a lot of suggestions about eBay but to me that’s always a gamble. Can anyone recommend good solid adapters from a reputable source?

 

i have used a set of precision motorwerks on that big auction site. they have been fine.

 

I ordered a set from Precision motorwerks and had to send them back. (The center bore on the adapter was 70.5 instead of 70.3. The adapter fit loosely on the hubs of my 87 and the 70.3mm bore of the wheel (of course) wouldn't slip over the 70.5mm hubcentric lip on the adapter. Are you using stock wheels - just curious ?

To the O.P: I used adapters from Premier Auto Accessories (also on the big website).... and they've been working fine also; Specs were:

5x120.65 - 70.3 CB - 12X1.5 studs - 20MM (appx 3/4"). Others have used 1" with no issues;. I prefer the 20mm as some rim tire combinations (to me at least) make the rim / tires look "too flush" for my taste and like they are just barely sticking out)..

 

stock c6 5spokes. good to know about pmw.

mine are fine but that was 5 years ago. mine also 87.

 

Thank you both for the suggestions. I’ll be sure to check center bore carefully as I intend to use factory sawblades from a 91. Tires should be here in about a week and I plan to use some test fitting and measuring with my actual setup prior to deciding on a thickness.

 

You know, I've seen other 87 and below C4's with those same C6 rims. I know they are listed as 70.3 center bore as well. When I looked at various rims, I looked at a set of those. The center bores measured at 70.3mm, but I remember the "angle" into the bore looked more "steep" to me. The center bore of the sawblades looked a little "fatter" if that makes sense. The sawblades were super close to fitting over the lip but not quite. about 3/16" "into the bore" of the rim, the bore looked a little fatter. I'm wondering if the C6 rims a just a tiny bit larger in that area. (OR . . . maybe your older spacers are correct and now they just make them different. They said 70.5mm is the spec they use - but I still find that odd). They told me they have nothing with 70.3, but who knows, the person may have just had bad info. The Quality was very nice on the PE Motorwerks adapters.

 

I put a level from the fender lip down with the 1" spacers I borrowed and the current 275's on all for corners. The level contacted the fender itself, and there was a almost paper thin space between the level and the sidewall of the tire at the lip of the rim. To me, looking with my eye down the body line, the sidewall and lip of the rim looked pretty even with the fender. The 20 mm (appx 3/4") spacer puts the sidewall of the tire (at lip of the rim), just under the fender which looked better to me. (but some tires are thinner in the sidewall area at the bead / lip of the rim so 1" gives pretty much the same look. To me: even if the tread is under the fender lip but water drips down the fender and hits the slight bulge in the sidewall, I don't like it . .. but that's me.

I also didn't want to "go crazy" and throw off the suspension geometry on essentially a "few time a week cruiser", so I went with the 20mm as I'm fine with the stock 275's on all 4 corners (but still have room to go wider if I want to) . 1988+ cars have suspension changes. At some point, adapter width can begin to create issues with suspension geometry on the earlier cars. I've heard of people with 1.5" adapters with no issues - I think that's a bit much. I could go a squeak wider and still be fine with the 20mm adapters, but I think the 1", would be too much if I was looking to go as wide as possible with the tires. Hope that helps. Either size should most likely work.

Also, when test fitting the sawblades. If I'm not mistaken, you won't be able to get the fronts even mounted. (The sidewall will usually hit the suspension (just enough so you can't get the wheel to contact the hub) . It will however hang on the top lug stud and just about look like it will bolt on. - depending on the sidewall) Rears should mount just fine without space, but will be in "too far" which looks a bit odd).

 

mine are easy to reach on the shelf. ill caliper them. just for clarity and thoroughness!