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Just picked up 1995 convertible. The Passive Keyless Entry lights up on the monitoring screen continuously. Is this normal. The remote keyless entry fob does not work. Thanks in advance.
Just picked up 1995 convertible. The Passive Keyless Entry lights up on the monitoring screen continuously. Is this normal. The remote keyless entry fob does not work. Thanks in advance.
That indicates a failure in the PKE module in the car. There are no new modules to be had, only used ones. Before you spend any money read all about the PKE system and make sure you want to invest money and time getting the system repaired (you can install the module yourself if you are have the skills). I probably would but it is your car. Do not lose or give away the fob, it is worth hundreds, they are very rare now.
That indicates a failure in the PKE module in the car. There are no new modules to be had, only used ones. Before you spend any money read all about the PKE system and make sure you want to invest money and time getting the system repaired (you can install the module yourself if you are have the skills). I probably would but it is your car. Do not lose or give away the fob, it is worth hundreds, they are very rare now.
That indicates a failure in the PKE module in the car. There are no new modules to be had, only used ones. Before you spend any money read all about the PKE system and make sure you want to invest money and time getting the system repaired (you can install the module yourself if you are have the skills). I probably would but it is your car. Do not lose or give away the fob, it is worth hundreds, they are very rare now.
With the number of these systems out there hopefully someone will come up with a suitable substitute for the original key fob🤞
Yup, my PKE module died about 10 years ago, grabbed a used one on ebay it was fine for awhile but then starting having trouble locking one door. Not sure if the lock is the problem or the PKE module again, just decided I wouldn't use it anymore and disabled the fobs the PKE.
One problem with the C4's that worries me is that it was one of the first cars with a lot of electronics in them and it seems getting modules for C4 gen is mostly based on used market.
C4's are what I would call middle aged now, meaning that factory new parts are drying up and there is a lack of aftermarket replacements, what usually happens though is the aftermarket comes up with solutions if there is sufficient demand. Fingers crossed.
Yup, my PKE module died about 10 years ago, grabbed a used one on ebay it was fine for awhile but then starting having trouble locking one door. Not sure if the lock is the problem or the PKE module again, just decided I wouldn't use it anymore and disabled the fobs the PKE.
One problem with the C4's that worries me is that it was one of the first cars with a lot of electronics in them and it seems getting modules for C4 gen is mostly based on used market.
I can't imagine any way the fob could responsible for problems with one door locking. It doesn't have separate signals to lock the doors, it's one signal and the doors lock when the signal disappears. Just curious, how did you know that one door was not locking?
The PKE system has a diagnostic function. Use it to properly diagnose the problem.
I'm a novice when it comes to the C4. The dealer, deals in Corvettes, but not a forum sponsor, i bought it from said they could not figure out which was causing the problem. Looking for any help in finding a place in Sussex County NJ that may be able to diagnose the problem.
I'm a novice when it comes to the C4. The dealer, deals in Corvettes, but not a forum sponsor, i bought it from said they could not figure out which was causing the problem. Looking for any help in finding a place in Sussex County NJ that may be able to diagnose the problem.
Was I not clear? If the PKE light stays on it is a problem with the PKE module in the car.
The light does not stay on constantly. It is intermittent. Sorry I upset you.
Intermittent could be a few things. Does the light come on when the fob is in or near the car? Have you put a new battery in the fob (Renata CR2450N putting out at least 3.0 volts)? Check fuses 26, 40 and 42. Try the fob matching procedure in the owners manual, if the blinking light doesn't come on it is definitely the PKE unit.
You can also try this"
"DIAGNOSIS
The PKE system will flash a specified diagnostic trouble code (dtc), based up on the testing of certain fucntion parts of the system when the diagnostics enable input is activated. the diagnostic mode will be accessed when the following conditions are met.
- Key is in the ignition
- Ignition is "OFF"
- the diagnostic link connector (DLC) terminal "H" has been grounded.
The diagnositc mode will be exited whenever the grounding of the diagnositc enable input is removed. the receiver will return to transmitter in range/key-in ignition mode after exiting. The "Passive Keyless Entry" lamp shall flash DTCs indictating proper operation or faults of specific parts of the system."
"DAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCs)The "Passive Keyless Entry" lamp in the Driver Information Center (DIC) shall flash information codes shown below, which represent the corresponding system condition.
Diagnostic Condition - DTC
Receiver memory bad - 12
Transmitter not in range - 13
Non-Valid transmitter received - 14
Valid Transmitter received - 15
Passenger Door Button Depressed - 16
Hatch Button Depressed - 17
DTCs 12. 13, and 14 display the current state of the system. DTCs 15, 16, and 17 are actually functional codes which require the transmitter to be in range as confirmation that the receiver has functioned correctly."
================
Intermittent could be a few things. Does the light come on when the fob is in or near the car? Have you put a new battery in the fob (Renata CR2450N putting out at least 3.0 volts)? Check fuses 26, 40 and 42. Try the fob matching procedure in the owners manual, if the blinking light doesn't come on it is definitely the PKE unit.
You can also try this"
"DIAGNOSIS
The PKE system will flash a specified diagnostic trouble code (dtc), based up on the testing of certain fucntion parts of the system when the diagnostics enable input is activated. the diagnostic mode will be accessed when the following conditions are met.
- Key is in the ignition
- Ignition is "OFF"
- the diagnostic link connector (DLC) terminal "H" has been grounded.
The diagnositc mode will be exited whenever the grounding of the diagnositc enable input is removed. the receiver will return to transmitter in range/key-in ignition mode after exiting. The "Passive Keyless Entry" lamp shall flash DTCs indictating proper operation or faults of specific parts of the system."
"DAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCs)The "Passive Keyless Entry" lamp in the Driver Information Center (DIC) shall flash information codes shown below, which represent the corresponding system condition.
Diagnostic Condition - DTC
Receiver memory bad - 12
Transmitter not in range - 13
Non-Valid transmitter received - 14
Valid Transmitter received - 15
Passenger Door Button Depressed - 16
Hatch Button Depressed - 17
DTCs 12. 13, and 14 display the current state of the system. DTCs 15, 16, and 17 are actually functional codes which require the transmitter to be in range as confirmation that the receiver has functioned correctly."
================
the set up I got from A1 electric ( post #5) came complete with new actuators and a relay and the wire harness. It was pretty straightforward you just needed a constant hot and a hot w/ key. It was about $100 or so. 2 remote fobs and I added a central switch for in the dash. I was redoing my door panels so no need for switches there. My understanding was it was very similar to a Viper set up. As for colors of wires, here are 2 schematics of my 78. Only blue wire in the door was for a power window.
Passive Keyless Entry
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