When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
OK, so I had a nice 96 C4 convertable in 2010, only had it a year and it never required me do do any work.
Now I picked a tarp - find 96 Coupe that has been parked since 2000. I did the welcome, even though I've been a Member since 2010. I thought some of you might see it and give me some heads up. That said, I tried removing plugs so I could fog the cylinders, only to find all plugs either over torqued or maybe I'm just getting old. Sliced my arm up a little. What I can't do is get to or haven't done is get to plugs #5, #7, and #8. I can't get my tools there, too much obstruction.
Is there a secret to this?
I'll be pulling the fuel sending unit and pump tomorrow to drain the tank and clean it.
Hopefully tomorrow night someone will impart their wisdom or what magic it takes to do the plugs.
Thanks Guys
This should be pretty helpful. Most threads on this topic on here seem to say mostly the same. Remove ASR for driver’s side and lay aside without disconnecting cables. #8, the biggest bitch of them all seems to be about finagling things until something works.
This should be pretty helpful. Most threads on this topic on here seem to say mostly the same. Remove ASR for driver’s side and lay aside without disconnecting cables. #8, the biggest bitch of them all seems to be about finagling things until something works.
Thank You.
Originally Posted by ls777z
Harbor Freight's wall of 3/8" drive accessories is your friend....
Tools is not the issue - I have tools I don't even remember what they are for. Thanks
As noted above, #8 is a bitch to get out and the new one in. I was able to all 7other plugs in the time it took to do just the #8 plug. And that was after working the passenger side on one day for like 6 hours. Took a break, then back at it the next day to finish the #8 and do the entire drivers side in about 2 hours. No easy way to get to it, just move what you can outta the way, angle the ratchet just right and get it done. For the #8, I actually ended up having to lay on the engine, from the drivers side to get the right angle to get to #8. I was cursing GM for the lack of access the entire time.....
As noted above, #8 is a bitch to get out and the new one in. I was able to all 7other plugs in the time it took to do just the #8 plug. And that was after working the passenger side on one day for like 6 hours. Took a break, then back at it the next day to finish the #8 and do the entire drivers side in about 2 hours. No easy way to get to it, just move what you can outta the way, angle the ratchet just right and get it done. For the #8, I actually ended up having to lay on the engine, from the drivers side to get the right angle to get to #8. I was cursing GM for the lack of access the entire time.....
Indeed. I had to lay across the engine too. Wasn't too bad after that, although my arms looked like I went ten rounds with a wildcat with really sharp claws
I’m almost thinking for all that I want to do, including this, it would be easier just to pull the beast out. Imagine the access you’d have for changing seals, plugs, and wires.
You know how the spark plug sockets have the hex nut design on the end? Many times instead of using a ratchet I’ll use an offset box end wrench on the end of the socket to get the plug loose. Then continue by hand or with ratchet as needed.
Indeed. I had to lay across the engine too. Wasn't too bad after that, although my arms looked like I went ten rounds with a wildcat with really sharp claws
Agree. My kids asked me what happened to my hands and arms…all scratched up. I was muttering things about GM the entire time….why in the world something that should be so simple was made to be complex.
Think about going after #8 from under the car after getting a socket on it from above....
I have a 4 post lift and tried getting at the #8 from underneath. Unless you remove the passenger side cat, you can’t get a ratchet in there to it. At least that was my experience. I gave up and went back up top and ended up laying on top of the LT4 and was able to do it that way….
I guess this is the price we all pay for them shoe horning a SBC into a little 3,000 lb car. But the driving experience sure is worth it. WV, since you are on here, is there any info on this procedure in the FSM bibles??? I will try to break them out later if I have time.
I looked in the FSM. There is no specific procedure listed other than how remove the wires and correct torque spec. I’m sure you all torqued your plugs to exactly 11 ft lbs given there’s plenty of room for a torque wrench. It’s like they knew it’s an SOB to do it and left it to the techs personal creativity for what actually works.
Thanks Steck. 5 & 7 were too easy after your suggestion. #8 is still waiting, but it is firing. As I explained in another thread, #4 has spark, but not firing, so I will be checking the injector.
Thanks Steck. 5 & 7 were too easy after your suggestion. #8 is still waiting, but it is firing. As I explained in another thread, #4 has spark, but not firing, so I will be checking the injector.
Thanks Steck. 5 & 7 were too easy after your suggestion. #8 is still waiting, but it is firing. As I explained in another thread, #4 has spark, but not firing, so I will be checking the injector.
For #8, you use a 1 1/2" extension, a spark plug socket, and a long flex-head ratchet. Hold the socket on the plug with your fingers while you start to loosen the plug. You won't get much of a turn from the ratchet but you'll move it enough that after a few times you can remove the ratchet and spin the socket/extension by hand to remove the plug.
Put a noid light on the connector that goes to the #4 injector (or use a volt meter) and crank the engine. Look for the light to flash or a voltage signal (5v as I recall) on the meter. You can also ohm test the injector. Should be around 12 ohms on a '96. If all that tests good, you can check the fuel pressure to see if it's bleeding down and if it is, pull the injector rail, turn the key on to power the fuel pump (don't start the car!), and see if #4 just sprays fuel.