Please help
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 22
Likes: 2
All those H3x codes in Module 1 can be set by low battery / system voltage.
Run my test for "Reference Pulses". It tells a lot about several things. If the fuel pump runs after cranking breifly, the ECM recognized reference pulses.
Another pretty simple check: Watch the tachometer while cranking. If it just sits on zero, there won't be spark. ICM or ECM. There could still be Reference Pulses, however.
I would wait for a Petris. There is no substitute, IMO.
Run my test for "Reference Pulses". It tells a lot about several things. If the fuel pump runs after cranking breifly, the ECM recognized reference pulses.
Another pretty simple check: Watch the tachometer while cranking. If it just sits on zero, there won't be spark. ICM or ECM. There could still be Reference Pulses, however.
I would wait for a Petris. There is no substitute, IMO.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 33,030
Likes: 6,543
From: Rochester NY
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '26
Read this very carefully.
If you turn the key, and the motor "goes around", that's spinning, or cranking, or turning over. All the same thing.
If you turn the key and it only goes "click", or if nothing at all happens, then it will NOT crank / spin / turn over.
Not trying to be picky, and we figured out what you meant, but this will save you (and us) confusion in the future.
If you turn the key, and the motor "goes around", that's spinning, or cranking, or turning over. All the same thing.
If you turn the key and it only goes "click", or if nothing at all happens, then it will NOT crank / spin / turn over.
Not trying to be picky, and we figured out what you meant, but this will save you (and us) confusion in the future.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 22
Likes: 2
Read this very carefully.
If you turn the key, and the motor "goes around", that's spinning, or cranking, or turning over. All the same thing.
If you turn the key and it only goes "click", or if nothing at all happens, then it will NOT crank / spin / turn over.
Not trying to be picky, and we figured out what you meant, but this will save you (and us) confusion in the future.
If you turn the key, and the motor "goes around", that's spinning, or cranking, or turning over. All the same thing.
If you turn the key and it only goes "click", or if nothing at all happens, then it will NOT crank / spin / turn over.
Not trying to be picky, and we figured out what you meant, but this will save you (and us) confusion in the future.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 22
Likes: 2
The constant cranking may have given the battery the final death-blow, but it was on its way out.
Another thought:
You indicated that the SYS message was flashing when you brought the car home. This indicates there was at least one active Code in the CCM (Module 1.) I've seen correlation between "bad battery" and SYS message. You indicate you had "18 Volts" indicated. A bad battery can cause high charging current but the alternator should still regulate the voltage to the nominal 13.8-14.5-ish. But what if the regulator is also faulty and is allowing "18 volts"?
High system voltage can be detrimental to solid state electronics. Things like the Opti, ECM, and ICM.
When you go to start this car, if it starts, monitor the system voltage immediately! If you see indications over 14.5, or the voltage climbs and gets over 14.8, shut it off! Investigate that the alternator regulator is also faulty. Don't allow high system voltage to destroy new parts or take out something else.
Another thought:
You indicated that the SYS message was flashing when you brought the car home. This indicates there was at least one active Code in the CCM (Module 1.) I've seen correlation between "bad battery" and SYS message. You indicate you had "18 Volts" indicated. A bad battery can cause high charging current but the alternator should still regulate the voltage to the nominal 13.8-14.5-ish. But what if the regulator is also faulty and is allowing "18 volts"?
High system voltage can be detrimental to solid state electronics. Things like the Opti, ECM, and ICM.
When you go to start this car, if it starts, monitor the system voltage immediately! If you see indications over 14.5, or the voltage climbs and gets over 14.8, shut it off! Investigate that the alternator regulator is also faulty. Don't allow high system voltage to destroy new parts or take out something else.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 22
Likes: 2
The number 1 water ingress point is the wiring harness. It isn't sealed, and so water will migrate right now the harness, past the pins, directly into the optical sensor.
If it was being prepped for sale, it wouldn't be surprising to hear that they cleaned the engine bay, and some water or cleaner got on the harness and killed the opti. Lots of people think covering the opti helps. It doesn't, the outside shell of the opti has a seal to prevent water getting in. The wiring harness is a direct pathway for water to get in.
If it was being prepped for sale, it wouldn't be surprising to hear that they cleaned the engine bay, and some water or cleaner got on the harness and killed the opti. Lots of people think covering the opti helps. It doesn't, the outside shell of the opti has a seal to prevent water getting in. The wiring harness is a direct pathway for water to get in.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 33,030
Likes: 6,543
From: Rochester NY
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '26
I hope your problem is easily and inexpensively resolved.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 22
Likes: 2
The constant cranking may have given the battery the final death-blow, but it was on its way out.
Another thought:
You indicated that the SYS message was flashing when you brought the car home. This indicates there was at least one active Code in the CCM (Module 1.) I've seen correlation between "bad battery" and SYS message. You indicate you had "18 Volts" indicated. A bad battery can cause high charging current but the alternator should still regulate the voltage to the nominal 13.8-14.5-ish. But what if the regulator is also faulty and is allowing "18 volts"?
High system voltage can be detrimental to solid state electronics. Things like the Opti, ECM, and ICM.
When you go to start this car, if it starts, monitor the system voltage immediately! If you see indications over 14.5, or the voltage climbs and gets over 14.8, shut it off! Investigate that the alternator regulator is also faulty. Don't allow high system voltage to destroy new parts or take out something else.
Another thought:
You indicated that the SYS message was flashing when you brought the car home. This indicates there was at least one active Code in the CCM (Module 1.) I've seen correlation between "bad battery" and SYS message. You indicate you had "18 Volts" indicated. A bad battery can cause high charging current but the alternator should still regulate the voltage to the nominal 13.8-14.5-ish. But what if the regulator is also faulty and is allowing "18 volts"?
High system voltage can be detrimental to solid state electronics. Things like the Opti, ECM, and ICM.
When you go to start this car, if it starts, monitor the system voltage immediately! If you see indications over 14.5, or the voltage climbs and gets over 14.8, shut it off! Investigate that the alternator regulator is also faulty. Don't allow high system voltage to destroy new parts or take out something else.
