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The car has always started almost before the ignition key hit start. There are no issues with how the car runs.I would guess that is due to the 2 second prime to 42psi fuel rail pressure with the FPR disconnected from vacuum. Only 34psi with the vacuum connected. Lately, it takes longer, seconds, so I did some investigation and found the fuel pressure bleeds off very quickly to zero. With the return line clamped, it still bleeds off. With the supply line clamped it holds pressure. I don’t have two suitable clamps to do both lines at once to check the injectors. It looks like the pump and check valve are tired and could be replaced.
The question I have is what should I replace the hanging assembly with? Are there OEM replacements? I do not want Chinese junk. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Thank you.
The car has always started almost before the ignition key hit start. There are no issues with how the car runs.I would guess that is due to the 2 second prime to 42psi fuel rail pressure with the FPR disconnected from vacuum. Only 34psi with the vacuum connected. Lately, it takes longer, seconds, so I did some investigation and found the fuel pressure bleeds off very quickly to zero. With the return line clamped, it still bleeds off. With the supply line clamped it holds pressure. I don’t have two suitable clamps to do both lines at once to check the injectors. It looks like the pump and check valve are tired and could be replaced.
The question I have is what should I replace the hanging assembly with? Are there OEM replacements? I do not want Chinese junk. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Thank you.
Until you pull the pump you don't know if you need a new "hanging assembly". Is your gas gauge correct? You don't need a hanging assembly to replace the pump. No OEM out there. I replaced my 96 with the stainless unit on Ebay. Nice unit but needs to be calibrated to read correctly. Dan
Thank you Whaleman. I have read and saved you post.
I did find an ACDelco pump. Not cheap of course, but I am not sure I can fix my problem by just replacing the pump alone. Isn’t there supposed to be a check valve there as well? I would think that should be contributing to my problem as well.
Thanks Dan. That is great to know. Maybe I can get away with just a new pump. I am in the process of trying to remove the supply line. Got everything else disconnected.
The assembly is out. I could not get the supply line off of the assembly fitting no matter what I tried. I had to slice about an inch off of the line to get it off. I hope it still fits. The upper areas of the assembly are corroded and some surface rust. Indicates lots of moisture in the tank over the years. Inside of the tank looks clean and in good shape. Lost a 10mm bolt when I was removing the assembly. I am going to take the spare tire carrier off in hopes it went in there. Other than the corrosion and surface rust it looks ok. The fuel gauge appeared to be working, so I might just get a new pump.
I got the original hanging assembly out. At about half a tank in height on the assembly there was a lot of surface rust, so I decided to replace the whole hanging assembly. I bought a Delphi DHP10031 assembly which comes with everything.
I spent today trying to get it to work. The pump works, so I am not fighting with that, but the fuel level sensor will not work in the tank. It works correctly outside of the tank, but as soon as you drop it into the tank it gives a reading on the dash gauge as empty/reserve. moving the hanging assembly up and down in the tank makes no difference. The tank has about a half tank of fuel in it. I have checked everything I can think of in comparing it to the old one I took out and the new one and they measure and look to be the same. The sensor element reads 84 ohms on both the new and old and works just fine out of the tank. It would appear that the float is getting stuck down as empty and does not float up. But it doesn't even read anything as you put it down into the tank.
Has anyone bought the DHP10031 assembly and had similar problems?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the reply Dan.
Yes, I did see what you did. Well, here’s what happened yesterday. When I took the old unit out it was registering a 1/4 of a tank of gas. I was expecting to see something similar with the new one. But it was always empty, reserve, check gauges on the instrument panel. I had tried everything including comparing the float arm from the old to the new.
As you can see, they were very different. So I bent the new one to match the old one. Put it back on and installed the new assembly. No difference, same as before. I had exhausted all my ideas, so I decided I would go and fill the tank and see what happens. $75.00 later the gauge was working and reading full. There was never a problem, just a big difference in the reading when I took the old one out and put the new one in.
so now I will keep and eye on the gauge and refill to get an idea how accurate the gauge is reading.
Thanks for all the help.
I think the aftermarket units are actually made to work perfectly in a different car. Which one I have no idea. Someone figured out they kinda work in a C4 so they started selling them for C4"s. The one I bought was closer to stock than the one you bought. I repeat, none of them work perfectly out of the box. With that said, I have seen posts where someone bought an aftermarket that did read correctly. Sounds like a crapshoot. Hope it reads right for you. Dan
Dan, you hit the nail on the head, “it’s a crap shoot”. Aftermarket parts never fit, function, or are as good as OEM.
I will have to see how it goes.
Thanks again.
‘96 Base Fuel Pump Hanging Assembly
