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I ma not sure if this is ok to post - but I came across this and although it is almost over - quick jack is running a 20% off spring sale - 3-400 is a fair chuck of change if you were thinking about these (some maybe - i know many prefer jack stands) - anyhow I wanted to let people know if anyone out there was thinking or on the fence about it
I got the 5000TL a couple weeks ago for my C2. Can't believe I didn't do it 12 years ago. Fittings came already installed with thread sealer. Bought it to do a rear main seal and it was fantastic. Highly recommend.
I just ordered the 5000tl myself - so - I have no actual experience with it yet - read a lot of happy customers on the forum so i finally pulled the trigger
I just ordered the 5000tl myself - so - I have no actual experience with it yet - read a lot of happy customers on the forum so i finally pulled the trigger
From: Central Kansas – early 1977 L-48 Coupe in Classic White, aka the Sunset Stripper
2023 C4 of the Year Winner - Unmodified
Originally Posted by Riley93C4
Which model do most of you guys that have one for your c4 get?
5000TL. They're heavy; mine live on the garage floor and I park over the top of them. Installing Harbor Freight rollers makes them a lot easier to position under your frame:
From: Central Kansas – early 1977 L-48 Coupe in Classic White, aka the Sunset Stripper
2023 C4 of the Year Winner - Unmodified
Originally Posted by Riley93C4
You guys use regular blocks or the pinch weld blocks?
I use the standard blocks that came with the QuickJack, they work great.
From QuickJack's website ( https://quickjack.com/pinch-weld-blocks/ ): "Supporting cars on pinch-weld rails creates excessive pressure points which can gouge or tear the standard rubber blocks and damage delicate body rails on unibody vehicles."
I haven't found gouging or tearing of the standard blocks to be an issue after multiple lifts, nor, in my opinion, do the blocks have the potential to "damage delicate body rails."
The pic is clickable.
The rubber is very grippy. The blocks deform just a bit in use and do a perfect job of "cradling" the pinch welds, without deforming excessively.
I should note that I place the blocks where the frame turns inward just ahead of the rear tires, and just behind the front tires. In fact, the lifting trays on the 5000TL model are spaced too far apart to lift the car at the factory jacking points.
I pulled the trigger and the sale was still valid, my wife's going to kill me lmao. But man doing any work will be so much easier when I need to get under it or even do brakes.
glad the code still worked for you! - felt the investment was worth it - and the sale helped - not sure it will help the wife thing - you may have to duck once or twice - i had the same concerns when buying it as well - i just never got as comfortable or trusting of jacking the car one side at a time - i saw the videos so I know it did - but the quick jack just looked a little easier and safer to me --
I use the standard blocks that came with the QuickJack, they work great.
From QuickJack's website ( https://quickjack.com/pinch-weld-blocks/ ): "Supporting cars on pinch-weld rails creates excessive pressure points which can gouge or tear the standard rubber blocks and damage delicate body rails on unibody vehicles."
I haven't found gouging or tearing of the standard blocks to be an issue after multiple lifts, nor, in my opinion, do the blocks have the potential to "damage delicate body rails."
The pic is clickable.
The rubber is very grippy. The blocks deform just a bit in use and do a perfect job of "cradling" the pinch welds, without deforming excessively.
I should note that I place the blocks where the frame turns inward just ahead of the rear tires, and just behind the front tires. In fact, the lifting trays on the 5000TL model are spaced too far apart to lift the car at the factory jacking points.
100% agree with all of this. Same experience here.
100% agree with all of this. Same experience here.
One more thing to add...I am not sure of the difference between C2 and C4 wheelbases, but watch the arc swing of the rear of the lift as it is rising. It can run into the rear wheel so just work with the spacing and carefully watch. I lay down on the ground and watch from the side as it raises. Also watch (since it swings forward while raising) that the car does not run into your garage wall or any obstructions, depending on which way you are lifting. It probably moves laterally around a foot at full lift height.
quick jack - --
