On that gasket between the coil and the rotor on the L98.

I know the ICM gets thermal but I forget what I had on that little gasket thingamabob.

 

Eh, nevermind. I put it back together already. Ainobody have no time to be waiting around.

I used dialectic on that spacer, or whatever it's called, and used the thermal paste on the new ICM.

That's probably what I used on it last time I swapped out the cap and rotor anyway.

 

Makes sense to me, and is what I would have done, although I've never done it or researched what is "proper".

You want heat transfer for the ICM. That is what thermal paste does. Thermal paste is not a lubricant.
You want to 'block' the conductivity of the 'spacer' to the cap, that is what the term "dialectic" means. If the spacer turns, or might turn or needs to move to stay in alignment, you want some lubricity. That's what the term "grease" means.

IMO, you did good. Cheers.

 

Thanks for the confirmation.

I'm gonna have that old ICM that I uninstalled tested.

I have a feeling there was nothig wrong with it, but I've been chasing a miss that occurs every five seconds or so at red lights or stops while I'm in drive. Not really noticible at wot, but it still might be there and I just canlt feel it.

Still have the miss after installing the new ICM, so I dunno. Running out of ideas, as pretty much everything except the MAP sensor has been replaced.

Starting to think maybe I might have stuck ring(s) or something. Maybe losing a little bit of compression.

Bleh....

 

Please elaborate on the text in bold. What "stops"? The miss, or does the engine stop (stalls, dies.)?

It's not MAP, and it's not compression. It could be fuel distribution from different flow injectors, or a few injector spray patterns that aren't fully atomizing at idle, and this usually isn't as noticeable at higher flows such as WOT.

One item that is easy to check are the plug wires for resistance. Best done on a cold engine. Check the resistance of each wire with your VOM. Short wires will be less than long wires, but all should be about 5k to 12k -ish. If you find an outlier, replace it.

ALSO: While your conducting the resistance tests inspect the wires closely for any contact with the exhaust heat shields where intermittent shorting may be occurring. I recently had a similar miss on my DD but didn't really suspect the wires as they were only a couple of years old. Then the intermittent became a solid single cyl miss. I checked that cyl's wire, resistance was ok, but I saw a spot on the insulation where it had been in contact with the heat shield, but not really raw or rubbed through. Just a little white spot. I replaced it, and the miss was gone. Wires just aren't as good quality as they have been in the past.

Wires of course won't cause the engine to stall, if that is what is happening. But they can sure be the source of annoying intermittent misfires.

 

Oh, I just meant like if I stop at an intersection or something while in drive. That's when I notice it most.

There's no actual rhythm to the miss, though. It's sporatic. But it's there. Like every five seconds or so.

Doesn't stall or die or anything like that. Doesn't even feel like it's gonna stall or die.


The injectors are new Bosch III from SouthBay. Just installed a full set maybe a month ago. So I'm assuming they've been tested before sending out.

Did that already. They all checked out. And they're brand new wires, but I checked em out anyway.

Also checked the plugs themselves with a meter. They checked out, too.



I'l double check that to be sure.

Thanks for all of that.

I'm gonna sit on it for a few days and get back to it.


In the mean time, I've gotta replace my left window motor when it delivers. So that's something else.

I took it apart when the window function recently started operating intermittently and found that the points inside were broken in half.

So that was odd. I guess it's just age

Not looking forward to that Mickey Mousery, honestly.

Goes back to what you mentioned in the other thread about maintaining these darned cars. It's always something...

 

The passenger window in my 92 just stopped working for no f-ing reason as well. I installed a Viper Automated Window Module earlier this year, and it was working great, until it didn't. It took about an hour to validate that it was the window motor, and nothing to do with the module or wiring mods.

I've never done a window motor in a C4. Please take a pic or two and point out anything fussy I should be prepared for. I haven't even ordered the motor yet, you'll probably get yours buttoned-up before I even start my project. Thanks in advance.

No ****. It is always something.

 

In a month or so I will be replacing the 1 1/2 year old south bay bosch III's as I have had this and other problems every since installing them. Mine had a P/N number on them for 19lb injectors and my car has not been the same since. I had written / spoken to them many times. I asked if they would test them, they said sure, for $169. I am thinking of even going back to lucas style injectors.

What is the P/N on your injectors ??

 

I have found i several intermittent electrical shorts from broke plugs and wires by watching the engine running in the dark.

 

When I took the cover off of the window motor, it was apparent that it's pretty much the same exact motor and setup as the headlight motors. It's the same worm gear, same electronics with the same points. Only difference it the added gear that operates the regulator.

I'm gonna save my motor original and rebuild it based on that. As I'd mentioned earlier, the points were broken in half. That's really all that I found to be wrong with it. Granted, I can't see much in there with it installed on the regulator and inside of the door still, but the broken points would do it.

Mine's supposed to deliver today. But I've got other stuff to do around here.

With regard to taking pictures, here's a good thread with pictures of a window motor replacement on a 92. Albeit the left side...

​​​​​​https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...with-pics.html

Looks like the highlights of the job are marking your windows prior to unbolting and managing that springback action when you drill that rivet out that he circled in blue.

But...and this is what I meant about the Mickey Mousery of the job, at least as it pertains to my refurb. "While you're in there'' you may as well clean up and lube all of the lock rods and pivot points, especially if you have a laggy power locks like I do. And..I also broke wires at the crimp connector on the power lock switch itself when I pulled the door panel. Those connections have corroded over the years to the point that I'm gonna rebuild em just because they need to be. I guess that the VAT runs through there, too. The window seals were shot whenI bought it. I've since replaced, but the electrical connection damage done over who knows how long before I picked it up is still there.

 

​​​​​​0280155710

 

Just saying, do not go by what I say on making decisions. This info is from internet search.

https://www.injectorplanet.com/produ...ord-f6ve-a5a-1
https://ksm-motorsports.com/products...tPAHpQ8ljXmHjX

 

Thanks for the link to the tutorial on window motor removal.
When I did my Automated Window Module, I was in both doors and had to loosen the metal plate to be able to reach in to zip-tie the added wiring harness from the boot back to the switches. So I'm recently familiar with about 1/2 of the task which is removing the door panels without damage. (Love that hidden screw behind the power window switch on the passenger side.)

Regarding the "spiral spring": I've done a bunch of window motors in 1st Gen S-10, they have the same spring. I put the assembly in my bench vise and use a big vice-grip on the straight section to un-hook the spring from the tab. Then un-wind it. In the full-up position, the spring is only wound-up about a 1/2 turn. Not fussy. Mark the visible side, and take a pic of the spring and assembly before removing it, so you don't have to futz with remembering the orientation to put it back on.

Clarify the "points" in the motor that broke. Are these the thermal circuit breaker that a lot of motors have? Were you able to access these "points" for inspection with the motor still in the door? If so, I may just look at my motor, and if this is what has broken and is wrong, I'll McGyver them back together and run it. I don't use the passenger side very much, and for this POS car I don't really care.

Again, thanks in advance.

 

Those copper points that make contact with the copper part of the worm gear as it turns are hard to explain. But it's the same exact setup as the headlight motor worm gear has. And it's magnetic. Really strong magnet, too.

And the points are spring loaded, too. Major pain in the rear end to do, even if the motor is out of the car. You have to hold the two spring loaded points down at the same time while inserting the worm gear.

It's going to be impossible to do without removing the entire regulator. I don't think you can do it from inside the door.

I'll try to reach a camera in the door and take some pictures tomorrow of what I'm talking about.

I may even take the regulator out and get started on replacing the motor.

I didn't mess with it today. It was over a hundred degrees out there and just plain nasty humid.

Really wish they hadn't used rivets to fasten the motor to the regulator, but it is what it is.

Probably wouldn't have to remove the regulator at all to swap out the motor if they hadn't riveted the thing.

 

Drill the rivets. Use a 5/16" bit, it will tear the head off. Then punch the rivet shank out of the hole with a drift. Be sure to remove the spring before drilling the rivets. I bet you do all 3 in less than 60 seconds. It isn't fussy, the rivets are soft, and the 5/16" bit works great. You'll see. Ok, I looked at the tutorial. The rivets are different than what I'm accustomed to in the S-series. Grinding the heads off is probably the easiest. You may get lucky like Topduarte did and the motor is bolted in because it had been previously replaced. Cheers.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~

Ok. When I figured out what you're talking about I LOL'd. Those "points" are called "brushes". They are carbon, and spring loaded because they wear as the motor runs.

I don't need any pics unless you come across something fussy that isn't in that tutorial. Thanks. Good luck with the motor replacement project.

 

Yeah, I don't know all of that terminology. Good to know, though.

 

I never want to do this job again, man. Ever. It sucks. lol.

I got the new motor installed on the regulator...finally. Giant pain in the rear end working with that regulator, though..

The motor I bought came with hardware. Same one in the tutotial I linked.

The two flat head bolts; one goes behind the teeth of the regulator that the motor runs with and the other one goes under the glide. Gotta do some prying on that glide to get it in.

Definitely install the flat head bolt under the tooth part of the regulator first.

The panhead bolt goes at the bottom...no obstructions on that one.

I crammed the regulator back inside the door, I'll button it all back up tomorrow.


Anyway, here was the problem on mine...





Both ''brushes'' were cracked in half. They were still in place, but obviously causing intermittent continuity.

One of em completely ripped off its wire when I pulled it out.


Two hours to do the whole job from start to finish, my butt.

Definitely could have used another set of hands with this.

I've gotta hire some help around here so it's not so miserable all of the time wrenching on this pos......

 

See the horizontal "bar" of metal at the bottom of the pic, above your thumb? This the thermal breaker. Current flows through this to the left brush. As current flows, the metal heats up. If it heats up too much (motor stuck and not moving) the bar expands and opens contact with the portion on the right side. Current flow ceases until it cools off. This is what I thought you meant by "points".


That is so aesthetically pleasing. Easy on the eyes. Thanks for this too.

 

Going back to my initial question, after a couple of short drive cycles, no more of that slight miss or whaever it was after replacing the ICM.

So I guess the timing is being managed right after the ICM replacement. Maybe it just took it a couple of drive cycles to relearn. I dunno.

But it's back to normal now. And that's the only thing I've done since first noticing it.