The ones I bought the other night are 3/64" taller but the walls are twice as thick as the ones I originally bought. I'll give those a try.

 

If you do go the MAM/Eckler's route for bushings, be sure and let us know.

I wanna' know if they perform unsatisfactorily, too, in your particular situation.

 

I will, but first I'm going to try the new $0.53 cent spacers I have.

 

A man after my own heart. I hear you Scoob. I never get tired of saving money, either. Good luck with the HD bushings. I'm happy with mine.

 

od, if these thicker ones work I'm still only out of pocket $3.18 (plus tax). Even better is that I will have learned something that can be passed on to those who will eventually have the same problem.

 

True. You and I have already passed on a treasure trove of knowledge to other C4 owners who will invariably encounter this problem...and you can't put a price on that!

 

I got mine through the forum mall from Zip. I never could find them (until after I got them of course) in Ecklers or MAM. I forget how much they were but they definatly cost more than $5 a set

found em... and I think this is what I paid too here

 

Do you have a PN for the thicker ones? Or better yet a size spec in case I cannot find the exact PN.

I couldn't frind the exact PN 595609 at HD last week.

thanks!

 

They are at home in the garage. I'll get you that info tonight.

 

When you go to HD, grab one of the checkout counter slims and tell her to look up item number 595609. That's their inventory control number, not the actual UPC code on the package. If you want THAT, it's 30699 87278.

You'll need 3 packs of 2 each for a total of 6 spacers to do both headlights. Total cost locally was $2.07 + tax.

 

What's up if the motor is not rotating?
I can rotate the headlamp up with the manual **** just fine, but the motor just doesn't spin at all?

 

At my local HD these spacers can be found on the aisle where they sell the nuts, bolts, and screws in small bags hanging on the wall. The spacers aren't hanging on the wall, though. About midway down the aisle there is a display with about 30 or so drawers where they sell spacers and odd such things. The ones I get are found in the drawer labeled "nylon spacers, etc..."

Anyway, here is the package info. Note that the part number is not on the package but it is on the compartment in the drawer. these are packaged in small plastic bags, clear back with white front with black printing.

The ones that onedef92 has used successfully are:

SPACER
27/64" LONG
29/64" OD X .324" ID
10 7
NYLON
DR# - 39 BIN - Q
DR# - 981
30699 87278

The thicker ones that I am going to try next are:

SPACER
1/2" LONG
1/2" OD X .257 ID
12 7
NYLON
DR# - 39 BIN - Q
DR# - 981
30699 87258

You can see that the length and OD of the thicker ones is somewhat more than the ones that onedef92 uses. I do not know if the thicker ones are too big as is and will require some sanding down. I will learn that when I get to replacing them.

 

This comes from DonQ and me. The thing I would try first would be to open manually to check for binding.

This is in case there is something broken that would physically cause it to not work. If it is binding, there might be some broken pieces of gear, etc. You will be able to pull the motor apart to inspect. If it opens fine, this is not the problem.

Second, I would have a second person turn the lights on while listening for the motor in question operate. If no sound, then go to the next step. Does the other light work?

Third, I would get a voltmeter (or testlight) and probe the 2 pin connector for the headlight motor. This will determine whether the headlight control module is causing the problem.

If there is no voltage to the headlight motor, then it is possibly the module--or a harness problem. If you do not get any voltage, you can carefully apply 12V to the 2 pins of the headlight motor to drive it open and closed.

This will determine whether the motor is bad or not. A note of caution in doing this. Don't let the positive and negative leads touch or you will have a rude surprise. If the harness end of the motor connector has 12V or -12V, then the module should be fine and the motor is at fault.

If the headlight motor is determined to be the culprit, it is worth a shot to take it apart to just see if there is a simple fix such as brush hanging up or a misplaced brush spring, etc.

Pull the armature (the piece that has wires wound to it) out of the motor. The brushes are located on the plate next to the gear housing. Note if the brushes are able to come into contact with each other.

Also, note the length of the brushes. A good set of brushes should be able to come in contact with each other (with springs in place pushing them together) and should be more than 1/4" in length. Also both brushes should be nearly the same length.

It's somewhat rare for the brushes to wear out, but it has happened before.

Fortunately if your brushes are worn or broken, they can be replaced. Go to an electric tool repair shop and ask for Bosch item number 3604 321509.

You'll have to sand them down slightly with a piece of emery cloth, but they'll work. Hope this helps. Good luck with your diagnosis/repair.