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My drivers-side headlight gets hung up sometimes when I turn them on (motor keeps running with a clunking sound). I know that there are replacement gears available but I don't know how to do the job. Is there a place online with pics of this procedure? I am looking to do the upgrade from the "hard gel" to the gear system.
If I buy the replacement gears, do they come with instructions?
Re: How do I fix (replace) headlight gears? (glerma)
glerma,
I just fixed mine today, having recieved the bushings in the mail yesterday. The link is to an Ekler's part number page that describes the repair kit. Its a $5 set of Delrin bushings, and they come with a very good step by step procedure. My headlamp works like new now
Seems the problem is that the original bushings tend to disintegrate. The replacement bushings are made of a high quality engineering polymer. Look for a whiteish powdery residue around the headlamp motor. When I took mine apart, all that was left of the bushings was a bunch of powder. You most likely will not need a gear.
Do NOT go to Home Depot and buy item number 595609. I did and the headlight worked once, then the nylon spacers buckled. I had to replace them with the correct ones. MidAmerica and Eklers both have the correct part. MidAmerica has slightly cheaper shipping, both parts cost a mere $4.99.
Do NOT go to Home Depot and buy item number 595609. I did and the headlight worked once, then the nylon spacers buckled. I had to replace them with the correct ones. MidAmerica and Eklers both have the correct part. MidAmerica has slightly cheaper shipping, both parts cost a mere $4.99.
I've got Home Depot busings in my '92 and they working just fine. I paid .69 cents for them plus tax and NO waiting or shipping fees, either.
I got the tip from another Forum member who also used them with no problems at all. Curious...
Do NOT go to Home Depot and buy item number 595609. I did and the headlight worked once, then the nylon spacers buckled. I had to replace them with the correct ones. MidAmerica
Question: what were your symptoms when the new HD ones failed?
A few weeks ago I replaced mine with HD ones and upon testing them I found that while the headlight did rotate again the motor would continue to run after the headlights were in the correct position. I got 13 "clicks" from the motor. So I removed it, disassembled it again and found three oval spacers. They were no longer round.
I figured that I messed up somehow and I had three more new HD spacers so I loaded them up and put it all back together again. (Sidebar: once you have the experience this process goes very quickly. ) My first few test cycles with these spacers worked right but by the fourth or fifth cycle I was back to the motor continuing to run for 13 more "clicks" after the light is in position. This happens in both the light up and light down portions of the cycles.
I'm sure that when I open it up again I'll find 3 more oval spacers.
Question: what were your symptoms when the new HD ones failed?
A few weeks ago I replaced mine with HD ones and upon testing them I found that while the headlight did rotate again the motor would continue to run after the headlights were in the correct position. I got 13 "clicks" from the motor. So I removed it, disassembled it again and found three oval spacers. They were no longer round.
I figured that I messed up somehow and I had three more new HD spacers so I loaded them up and put it all back together again. (Sidebar: once you have the experience this process goes very quickly. ) My first few test cycles with these spacers worked right but by the fourth or fifth cycle I was back to the motor continuing to run for 13 more "clicks" after the light is in position. This happens in both the light up and light down portions of the cycles.
I'm sure that when I open it up again I'll find 3 more oval spacers.
I'd be curious to know this, too, because I've intentionally "stress-tested" my lights by flicking them up and down over and over again and my HD bushings are apparently still holding up just fine.
When I re-installed my lights, I even opened up one of the motor gear cases to get the main headlight gear seated properly and my HD bushings were not crushed or damaged at all. They were still seated perfectly in their triangular-shaped housing.
So far, the unofficial tally is two users reporting a negative HD bushings experience and 2 reporting a positive HD bushings experience.
I'd be the last person to intentionally toss anyone here a bum steer, but my experiences with HD bushings have not been dissapointing. In fact, I'd be even MORE pissed if I paid $10 bones for a set of MAM or Eckler's bushings and crushed THEM!
I'd be the last person to intentionally toss anyone here a bum steer, but my experiences with HD bushings have not been dissapointing. In fact, I'd be even MORE pissed if I paid $10 bones for a set of MAM or Eckler's bushings and crushed THEM!
I hear you! And don't worry, I'm not questioning your advice in the slightest bit. Odds are likely that I messed something up along the way.
I was at HD the other night so I stopped by the spacer drawer. I spied the next size up spacer. It is slightly taller but more importantly it is nearly twice as thick. I will take my motor apart again soon and try these out. If the height of the thicker ones is an issue I will sand them down to the proper height.
If the the "good" bushings are really Delrin, you ain't gonna crush them.
I think a more accurate description is "buckle" not crush. From what I've read and seen, the HD bushings did not crack, but lost their original, round shape. It may be there's some packaging inconsistency as Scoob suggested, either in the dimension of the HD bushings or the manufacturer's quality control measures.
I guess if anyone reports a similar failure after using the Delrin bushings from MAM or Eckler's we'll have an additional wrinkle to throw into the mix.
I think a more accurate description is "buckle" not crush. From what I've read and seen, the HD bushings did not crack, but lost their original, round shape.
I think my pic was lost in the CF server crash. When I get home I'll reload it and post it here.
I put in the Eckler's bushings. They cost $5 and were made a of Delrin, which is essentially ABS, a good engineering polymer. They had a center hole in them with wall thickness of about 1/8 in. Thicker than the ones pictured above. My initial thoughts when I replaced them was that they might even be too stiff, since they take the place of a gel compound.
At any rate, I think whatever replacement bushings used should be somewhat thicker than the ones pictured. Sorry for stating the obvious.