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I had a horrific rattle in my recently purchased 96 coupe. Thought it was rear shocks gone bad. Thought it was a loose rear window. After some feeling with my hand while going over bumps I found the top was missing a bolt in the rear plate that attaches the the roof panel. I went to the local Chev dealership and bought a new one for 58 cents. It was an immediate fix, no rattle, no "what did I get stuck with" feeling.
Have you had any simple, easy fixes????? It would be nice to hear about repairs going easy. Jim
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
Center console lid would not lock. Two minutes of investigation and one minute of work with a pair of pliers and it operates just as it did when it came from the factory...maybe better.
congrats on the fix....my door rattled really bad everytime I shut it....when I replaced the glass there was a loose metal bracket in there....no telling where it came from....but everything still works, and no rattle!
My tach needle started bouncing after 3000 rpm and I was advised it was a tach filter, no longer available, and I should cut the two white wires and connect them. Not really wanting to do that as Chevy dealer advised against it. (he had no solution though). Read on the forum that somebody had all kinds of problems, including tach, because of a loose groung wire. I thought, no way cound it be that easy. Guess what, the black wire from the tach filter was loose. Tighted the bolt and POW everything now works perfect. Wouldn't have believed that easy a fix in a million years.
The information center seemed to be missing some lights, so I figured either a bunch of missing or burnt out bulbs, took the dash apart and found that the connect had come loose off one side. Reseated the connecter and everything lit up. The wierd part was that hatch release button in the center console started working. Never could figure that one out. But who cares. It works.
Wifes car throws a knock sensor code. I buy 2 new knock sensors and some Dexcool and prepare for the worst. Put the car on ramps, crawl under, look at first sensor and find the wire is some how in 2 pieces. Splice wire together, check engine light goes out and all is well. Now I have 2 knock sensors I don't need but that is OK . I told the wife that is the first time a job was easier than expected and not harder. If I would have gone to a dealer or repair shop probably would have cost $500 for 2 new sensors and labor. Glad I decided to do it myself. Glad yours worked out also, Guy
Back when I got my 91, there was a horrible rattle from the roof, the used car dealer had no clue so with that and horrible tires he gave me a $1000 discount. My dad got me tires at Firestone with his employee discount-under $700, and a extended torx to tighten down the top, no more rattle and new tires... Woohoo!!!!
When I first got my 96, my electronic climate control system went on the fritz. Sometimes all the buttons would work, other times only some would work, and still other times none would work. From my days as a kid tinkering with R/C cars, I went back to the old, "Take it apart, clean it, and put it back together" method. About an hour later I had a CC unit that worked as good as new. Nothing but a pencil eraser and some rubbing alcohol needed! The tech tip helped as well...
When we got our 94, the passenger window went down very slowly and the lower inside seal was turning over, as it went down. I applied Rainex to the window and it fixed the problem and it's been fine ever since, for over a year now.
The left side underhood courtesy light was intermittent and strangly enough, tended to work when I accidentally tapped on the fender well.
The solution... I pulled the connector apart (connector attached to fender well) and found it corroded. Got out my proxy brush and a little electronics solvent and scrubed it out. Works fine now.