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Im getting so tired of the facts that I cant turn off my car, and hope for it to start again when I whant I to. Somtimes it helps to let the car wait for 20min and try again. Is this because my starter gets to hot from the exhaust? will exhaust wrap help?
What is the recomended batteri power size? maybe mine is to small?
Hope that some one can help me here. Its really :o when i cant start at the gas station or else where
Does the engine turn over and not start? ...or does it not even turn over (just makes a solenoid "clicking" noise)? Does it start OK cold? Depending on the symptom, could mean different things. Not sure about the hot starter theory. Usually it is either an old or dying battery, or the charging system.
Does the engine turn over and not start? ...or does it not even turn over (just makes a solenoid "clicking" noise)? Does it start OK cold? Depending on the symptom, could mean different things. Not sure about the hot starter theory. Usually it is either an old or dying battery, or the charging system.
The engine stats very well when cold! but sometimes when during a Hot start, the Starter just cant turn the engine over, and it drains the battery when trying....
The engine stats very well when cold! but sometimes when during a Hot start, the Starter just cant turn the engine over, and it drains the battery when trying....
What's the voltmeter reading at idle and while driving?
If over 13.5V while cruising, it's not the battery or alternator.
If under 12V at idle, it would be a charging problem.
What's the voltmeter reading at idle and while driving?
If over 13.5V while cruising, it's not the battery or alternator.
If under 12V at idle, it would be a charging problem.
Those numbers sound good, I think you can rule out the alternator.
Battery CCAs?. You should have a minmum of 400CCA. (The rule of thumb used to be Cubic Inch displacement = cold crank amps/or better.
Nowadays, the cheapest batteries start at 550CCA, so I think you can probably eliminate the battery if you have at least 550CCA, specifically because the engine will crank after it cools down. At some point in time, your battery will/wouldn't recover if it was weak.
You should check the battery cable ends at the battery to insure they are tight and clean. A bad connection or corrosion will reduce the amount of current flowing to the starter and makes it seem like a dying battery.
Also, the bolt that attaches the cable to the battery terminal can easily strip the aluminum threads in the terminal. The service manual calls for only 11 ft-lbs to tighten properly. If the bolt has stripped the threads, the cable can't make a good connection.
Your voltages sound right once the car is running. Have a load test performed on the battery to check its overall condition. There is also a possibility that the battery had a bad cell or some sort of internal short.
The proper battery size is a Delco 75B-72 or equal. CCA should be a minimum of 525. If you live in an area where the winter temps get consistently below freezing, find a good Group 75 battery that has over 800CCA. Most premium batteries should have CCA's like this.
Thanks. I will be checking the battery.
Is there some way that I can check the starter?
The idee that the starter gets to hot from the exhaust, has anybody else heard os this???
I had a 74 coupe with headers that did that.
Hot no start without shorting the starter with a jumper wire.
Cold it was fine or after a cool down it would fire right up.
Theres a hipo starter you can that can hold up to the heat from the headers.
Your starter sounds like my old one-probably packed with grease, oil, and just plain dirty, I simply replaced mine-end of problem. I really like the Sears Diehards, can't remember the rating-but they never seem to fail me while under the warranty.