Selective Ride Control Problem
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,965
Likes: 2
From: North side of Houston Texas
Selective Ride Control Problem
The selective ride control light on the dash of my '92 vert has come on permenantly. I knew it was hard to tell the difference in settings before, but thought it was maybe my imagination. Guess not. It wasn't coming on at all before, not even intermittently.
Anyway....where to start diagnosing this bugger??
Cheers!
W
Anyway....where to start diagnosing this bugger??
Cheers!
W
Race Director
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 17,101
Likes: 4
From: No more yankee my wankee, the Donger is tired!
Ground A to C on the ALDL
Codes
12 = Start of sequence
13 = Left rear time out
14 = Right Front time out
21 = Left Front time out
22 = Right Rear time out
31 = Left Front out of position
32 = Right Front out of position
33 = Left Rear out of position
34 = Right Rear out of position
Out of position codes are triggered if the computer senses that the actuator has not found the end stop position on the shock. Remove actuator at the indicated shock. Turn the valve gear on the shock stops after about 3 / 4 of turn, then you have a bad actuator. If it spins around continuously then it is a bad shock
41 = Selective ride control switch short to voltage
42 = Selective ride control switch open contacts
You can have a code 42 if you leave the switch in between indented positions
43 = selective ride control switch circuit open.
Codes
12 = Start of sequence
13 = Left rear time out
14 = Right Front time out
21 = Left Front time out
22 = Right Rear time out
31 = Left Front out of position
32 = Right Front out of position
33 = Left Rear out of position
34 = Right Rear out of position
Out of position codes are triggered if the computer senses that the actuator has not found the end stop position on the shock. Remove actuator at the indicated shock. Turn the valve gear on the shock stops after about 3 / 4 of turn, then you have a bad actuator. If it spins around continuously then it is a bad shock
41 = Selective ride control switch short to voltage
42 = Selective ride control switch open contacts
You can have a code 42 if you leave the switch in between indented positions
43 = selective ride control switch circuit open.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 468
Likes: 28
Originally Posted by Jeffvette
Ground A to C on the ALDL
Codes
12 = Start of sequence
13 = Left rear time out
14 = Right Front time out
21 = Left Front time out
22 = Right Rear time out
31 = Left Front out of position
32 = Right Front out of position
33 = Left Rear out of position
34 = Right Rear out of position
Out of position codes are triggered if the computer senses that the actuator has not found the end stop position on the shock. Remove actuator at the indicated shock. Turn the valve gear on the shock stops after about 3 / 4 of turn, then you have a bad actuator. If it spins around continuously then it is a bad shock
41 = Selective ride control switch short to voltage
42 = Selective ride control switch open contacts
You can have a code 42 if you leave the switch in between indented positions
43 = selective ride control switch circuit open.
Codes
12 = Start of sequence
13 = Left rear time out
14 = Right Front time out
21 = Left Front time out
22 = Right Rear time out
31 = Left Front out of position
32 = Right Front out of position
33 = Left Rear out of position
34 = Right Rear out of position
Out of position codes are triggered if the computer senses that the actuator has not found the end stop position on the shock. Remove actuator at the indicated shock. Turn the valve gear on the shock stops after about 3 / 4 of turn, then you have a bad actuator. If it spins around continuously then it is a bad shock
41 = Selective ride control switch short to voltage
42 = Selective ride control switch open contacts
You can have a code 42 if you leave the switch in between indented positions
43 = selective ride control switch circuit open.
I am getting a left front time out (code 21) on my '92. I notice that when I turn the valve gear on the top of the shock there is a slight kink, or hard spot, mid way thru the turn in each direction. This is probably the cause of my problem. Is there any way, short of shock replacement (which would mean both front shocks since I was always told to replace shocks in pairs) to remove that kink?? Also, is there a good place to get replacements, or only thru GM parts?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 7,276
Likes: 3
From: Why are there squished peanut butter cups in my underware?
From what I have learned over the years;
out of position = bad actuator, broken plastic gear
time out = bad shock, usually the gear thats broken
out of position = bad actuator, broken plastic gear
time out = bad shock, usually the gear thats broken
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: New Port Richey Florida
As I understand it, each time the ignition is turned on, the actuators run the shocks to the stops (to find the initial position) The stops are little tabs that are part of the gears on the top of the shock. These gears are made of a "pot-metal" like material that is in my opinion really cheap and whimpy for the job. After many engine starts these tabs get tired of hitting the stops and break off. When this happens the pieces of the broken gear get caught in the actuator and breaks the plastic actuator gear.
All the shocks really need is to replace the metal gear which is held on by a coil pin. Probably a $1.50 part. But noooooooo! Bilstein will not sell just the gear (that would be too easy). They would rather rebuild them $150.00 - $200.00 a piece!!
The actuators as far as I know must be replaced if the plastic gear is broken again, BIG DOUGH!! I have seen them on e-bay occasionally.
Sorry for the ranting but it chaps my tushie when I am told that it will take $150.00 to replace a $1.50 part!
If anyone has info on how to fix these cheap please let me know.
Bruce
All the shocks really need is to replace the metal gear which is held on by a coil pin. Probably a $1.50 part. But noooooooo! Bilstein will not sell just the gear (that would be too easy). They would rather rebuild them $150.00 - $200.00 a piece!!
The actuators as far as I know must be replaced if the plastic gear is broken again, BIG DOUGH!! I have seen them on e-bay occasionally.
Sorry for the ranting but it chaps my tushie when I am told that it will take $150.00 to replace a $1.50 part!
If anyone has info on how to fix these cheap please let me know.
Bruce
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Verdad Gallardo
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Unless you have a way to cast and finish those small gears, the only way tofix the FX3 shock is to have the gear replaced. The gear is not a GM service part and is not sold by Bilstein as a service part.
Why?? Probably because Bilstein doesn't want to sell the part to GM or to individuals. That is their choice as a product supplier and repair facility for their products. When I sent one shock in for a broken gear, I got it back with all new seals, new bushings, new oil and new paint and decals. So what I got back was effectively a brand new shock. As I understand it, this is what Bilstein currently does for all FX3 shocks needing a gear. There is an extra charge if the rod needs replacing but that may not have to be done in every case.
I wish it was that easy to fix the gear by replacing it!! But we pay the 'Corvette Tax" as part of owning and enjoying the car.
I really like my FX3 system; It may be 16 year-old technology but at the time it was an innovative system that worked well. Guess I'll keep it good working order.
Why?? Probably because Bilstein doesn't want to sell the part to GM or to individuals. That is their choice as a product supplier and repair facility for their products. When I sent one shock in for a broken gear, I got it back with all new seals, new bushings, new oil and new paint and decals. So what I got back was effectively a brand new shock. As I understand it, this is what Bilstein currently does for all FX3 shocks needing a gear. There is an extra charge if the rod needs replacing but that may not have to be done in every case.
I wish it was that easy to fix the gear by replacing it!! But we pay the 'Corvette Tax" as part of owning and enjoying the car.
I really like my FX3 system; It may be 16 year-old technology but at the time it was an innovative system that worked well. Guess I'll keep it good working order.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 716
Likes: 0
From: Evansville IN
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
I guess I'm one of the lucky ones, as my FX3 still functions. I've heard it is expensive to have them worked on. I'm going to buy a broken actuator and see what kind of gears it has in it. Maybe an easy fix, and then again maybe not.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 7,276
Likes: 3
From: Why are there squished peanut butter cups in my underware?
Originally Posted by Kwikerthanu
I guess I'm one of the lucky ones, as my FX3 still functions.
Originally Posted by Kwikerthanu
I'm going to buy a broken actuator and see what kind of gears it has in it. Maybe an easy fix, and then again maybe not.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 716
Likes: 0
From: Evansville IN
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Originally Posted by Z-07 freak
You've just jinxed yourself.
You're probably right there, but I did knock on wood before I wrote that.
It's more of a sealed unit, not to be taken apart. I have taken two broken ones apart. It is interesting how they work. But I don't see any way of putting them back together for repair purposes.
You're probably right there, but I did knock on wood before I wrote that.
It's more of a sealed unit, not to be taken apart. I have taken two broken ones apart. It is interesting how they work. But I don't see any way of putting them back together for repair purposes.
I've alway said, "If it goes together, it will come apart, and go back together". I haven't actually seen one, but now my curiosity is piqued.
