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could the crank sensor be bad, or do you mean that it could have been unplugged??? No the distributer didn't get wet. the car just passed an emissions tests with flying colors.
I dunno about "crank sensor", but the knock sensor may be disconnected or damaged. It's job is to retard timing if it detects detonation. Passenger side of the engine block, down by the oil pan. Check and see if the wire has come loose, or if the sensor itself is broken. BTW, should you need to change it, it spews coolant when you remove it, so wear eye protection and be ready to stick the new one in the second the old one comes out.
The manual calls for 6 degrees of timing, but you should be able to get away with more and pick up a little low end power. I'm running 10 degrees of base timing on my 84 on regular fuel with no detonation.
BTW, I trust you have smarts enough to back off the throttle if it sounds like the motor is crushing marbles. Bad detonation is an easy way to burn a hole in a piston. Find this problem and fix it ASAP.
Last edited by Frizlefrak; Jan 10, 2005 at 01:10 PM.
gapped my plugs at .045 and have my timming @ 10* and it runs great. i have a high output coil and module. check out the esc on the side of the ac inlet on the pass side or the knock sensor.
Since it wsn't mentioned I assume no codes are being set. Strange if not. Does the SES light come on at start up? I suggest you pull whatever codes may be set,assuming the SES works. Next make sure your knock sensor is present and connected. Then check the connection of the ESC module. My kneejerk guess is one of these latter two are not doing their job.
If the "crank" sensor is not the problem, I would next check the fallopian tube and the ovary sensor. Every month, they seem to act up in the worst way.
If the "crank" sensor is not the problem, I would next check the fallopian tube and the ovary sensor. Every month, they seem to act up in the worst way.
If the "crank" sensor is not the problem, I would next check the fallopian tube and the ovary sensor. Every month, they seem to act up in the worst way.
ESC??? SES??? Sorry, I'm brand new to the Corvette/Chevy/Domestic car thing. You have to excuse my ignorance. Not that I'm ignorant about cars....NO! far from it, but when it comes to domestic autos, I feel like a fish out of water sometimes. I do have a repair manual so I guess I could just look it up FYI, I'm running 91 octane, that's as good as it get's in AZ....unless you step it up to 110 race gas (OVERKILL for N/A applications)
SES = Service Engine Soon light. On the dash is a screen where any number of warnings and such. When you start the car, the SES light should come on. This is done as a self test.
If the light does NOT come on, bet money that the bulb is dead.
If the bulb is dead (or sometimes REMOVED!) then codes won't display.
If the bulb is good, and does not display anything, then there could be deeper problems.
The manual you have, is it the Helms (GM Factory Service manual)? The Chiltons and Haynes are pretty crappy, really. They don't give anything for year specific troubleshooting. If you don't have the Helms, get one - www.helminc.com.
ESC - Electronic Spark Control. This is what controls the knock sensor. If it isn't working right, it will cause all sorts of drivabilty issues.
5 years of sitting=alot of condensation in the fuel tank, hope you
used a fuel additive to remove water, Seafoam is a great idea.Don't know about your year specific, but I beleive you need to disconnect the ESC to check your base timing.
If the "crank" sensor is not the problem, I would next check the fallopian tube and the ovary sensor. Every month, they seem to act up in the worst way.