How many have used this product?
Just installed.

 

I'm running one.

Jake

 

Double roller on mine

 

you bet ... Part #9-3145, cloyes, true roller Speed Set...

 

i was going to post about this too... is this for the NON watermpump users??? I've gone electric and have considered a belt/chain for the noise... but a strong roller or double roller would be first choice.
thx!

 

I've always used Cloyes-Never had one go bad or strech out yet.

 

An old trick to increase the life of a timing chain, especially in race engines that see high RPMs regularly, is to drill a tiny - like 1/64" hole in the oil gallery plug above the cam gear.

This allows a constant spray of oil onto the chain. In stock type setup, the chain is only oiled by oil splash which isn't enough to prevent wear in hig RPM applications.

It's said that the hole also allows air to be purged from the oil galleries easier to insure a more constant oil pressure.

If the hole is small, the effect on total oil pressure is negligible.

Another tip for extending timing chain life is to oil it extremely well upon installation. Never start the engine with a dry chain.

I first soak the chain in a can of 50W oil, and use my fingers on both sides of the chain to make sure the oil gets thoroughly spread. Then after installing the chain, I pour about half a quart of heavy, straight weight oil at the 12 o'clock position on the chain and watch that it flows down the entire length of chain all the way to the underside of the 6 o'clock position.

You'll need a catch pan for the oil that runs off or be prepared to clean up the mess afterwards.

I've read of some guys using Assembly Lube and even spray motorcycle chain lube, but the idea's the same.

Jake

 

Yeah,Yeah,Yeah.... I LIKE'EM!! Use'em tooooo.

About half the oil that's pumped to the top of the engine runs out the two front drain holes and down over the timing chain.
JMHO but that should be enough to keep it happy and long lived.

I HAVE ground the little humps down where those drain holes are in the front of the block to make a little more of it run in that direction.

 

At first you'd think so, but actually, No, not really, not nearlly half.

Because of the angle the block sits in the engine bay, gravity and the "G" forces involved, tests have shown that oil flow to the timing chain at speed is marginal. For a street engine that won't see a lot of time up top, it may be okay. I want to emphasize "may" because over time, the wear will show.

Much of the oil goes rearward and a lot drops through the holes or slots in the valley onto the spinning camshaft.

The sloppy chains you find in high mileage engines is caused by the lack of sufficient oil flow; oil which both cools and lubricates the chain and gears.

That's why many of the engine build-up articles you read about in the mags include provisions for better chain oil. When the chain gets sloppy, both cam and ignition timing are negatively effected.

GM never intended their oiling system design to cope with the stresses we all tend to put on it. Hence, we now have priority main oiling blocks, procedures for smoothing the rear main cap oil pump mounting cavity, enlarging the oil pump by-pass hole, pressure balancing grooves in the pump body and cover, welding the pick-up to the pump, correcting oil pump gears to cover clearance, etc.

Crane even recommends modifying the distributor housing to allow pressurized oil to spray on the cam/distributor gear to decrease wear.

When you read stuff like "GM's oiling system is near bullet-proof, leave it alone . . ." that's old-school thinking at work.

Cheap insurance but, as always, do what you want.

Jake