C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

396 Big Problem

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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 10:26 PM
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Default 396 Big Problem

OK.......I got my motor ready to start tonight and upon starting it, I hear a knocking sound....track it down to the rotating assembly is hitting my pan on the passenger side !! You can see where it is actually knocking the pan out a bit in four places. Anybody ever had this happen to them???? What is the problem, the block or the pan? its a Canton pan. Got it drained of oil and guess the pan has to come BACK OFF for some clearancing??? other than that it sounds nice, no codes or anything,,,,,


jeff
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 10:31 PM
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Ouch! And here I was just thinking of building a 396 for a friend.

Is it really worth the extra trouble for the 396 instead of just building the 383? Its only 13 cubic more inches and alot more clearencing issues...
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by chriswtx
Ouch! And here I was just thinking of building a 396 for a friend.

Is it really worth the extra trouble for the 396 instead of just building the 383? Its only 13 cubic more inches and alot more clearencing issues...
I am starting to think your right, I went with the 396 hoping for more torque.... Im about to pull my hair out !!!!!!!!!!!



jeff
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 10:51 PM
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Better the pan then the block! I had to clearance my Canton for the driver side knock sensor on just a cam/heads swap.

Yank that pan and do your work with a hammer without distorting the mating surfaces and you should be just fine.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 11:18 PM
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Man,
That sucks but it is not a big deal to fix.
I clearanced my pan with a few taps of a hammer and it worked perfect. I went with the stock pan but doubt it would have worked for a 396. All my clearancing wan done on the stand so you are going to have your work cut out unless you plan on pulling the motor. May be easier to pull all the plugs to rotate the motor when checking.
Good luck and you are very close to having one monstor motor besides who ever heard of a 383 chevy? Now you can say you have a 396 and no one will think you are talking about a Mopar
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by FD2BLK
Man,
That sucks but it is not a big deal to fix.
I clearanced my pan with a few taps of a hammer and it worked perfect. I went with the stock pan but doubt it would have worked for a 396. All my clearancing wan done on the stand so you are going to have your work cut out unless you plan on pulling the motor. May be easier to pull all the plugs to rotate the motor when checking.
Good luck and you are very close to having one monstor motor besides who ever heard of a 383 chevy? Now you can say you have a 396 and no one will think you are talking about a Mopar
Thanks, the bad part here is that by rotating the thing, you cant hear it. only after we got it in and running did it become apparent. I guess I am going to try to drop the pan......I really dont want to pull the engine again

jeff
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 11:43 PM
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My guess is once you get the pan off it will not be hard to see where it is hitting.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by FD2BLK
My guess is once you get the pan off it will not be hard to see where it is hitting.
I dont have to take off the pan to see where...its denting out a little in four places. Thats what sucks, I wish it had been noticable while we were turning it over by hand. But that slow we never saw or heard a thing..


jeff
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 06:53 AM
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 08:50 AM
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Did you have the pan torqued down or just sitting there? You'd be suprised what a 1/10th can do to clearances...
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ztrips
Did you have the pan torqued down or just sitting there? You'd be suprised what a 1/10th can do to clearances...
Call me crazy.. but I'd probbly just leave it as is.. pretty soon the hammering will go away...if that is indeed your problem. Continue to monitor your oil for scrapnel...
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 01:31 PM
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I actually had the same thing happen on my 383. If i remember right the Canton pan is a pain in the a$$ to get out while in the car. I believe you'll need to take the bolts out of the motor mounts and try lifting the motor just a little. I just knocked the places out with a hammer and all was good,

Dan
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by TONYDEE64
Call me crazy.. but I'd probbly just leave it as is.. pretty soon the hammering will go away...if that is indeed your problem. Continue to monitor your oil for scrapnel...
Your crazy!!! Was that good enough?

Tony D, I hope you were kidding.

Now, I would not wait for shrapnel to end up in my oil. Clearance the pan or do whatever you have to do to stay away from any metal to metal contact. Cheap insurance from scraping metal off your crankshaft or wearing a hole into the side of your oil pan.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 01:47 PM
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Uhh yeah, spend an afternoon and clearance the pan before your oil pump sucks up metal and your rods adjust the clearance on your crank....
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 03:10 PM
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That's strange. A friend of mine ran a canton pan on his 396 LT1 and didn't have any such problems. He was running a calies crank and I'm thinking oliver rods but I can't remeber for sure.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ZumZum
Your crazy!!! Was that good enough?

Tony D, I hope you were kidding.

Now, I would not wait for shrapnel to end up in my oil. Clearance the pan or do whatever you have to do to stay away from any metal to metal contact. Cheap insurance from scraping metal off your crankshaft or wearing a hole into the side of your oil pan.
Well, sure... I mean.... if the sound of metal on metal bothers you....
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ddr698
I actually had the same thing happen on my 383. If i remember right the Canton pan is a pain in the a$$ to get out while in the car. I believe you'll need to take the bolts out of the motor mounts and try lifting the motor just a little. I just knocked the places out with a hammer and all was good,

Dan
nope the pan will come off with the motor in the car, but you have to have the crank in the right position
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 06:25 PM
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Humm i didn't even think of moving the crank . Thanks for the tip!
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
That's strange. A friend of mine ran a canton pan on his 396 LT1 and didn't have any such problems. He was running a calies crank and I'm thinking oliver rods but I can't remeber for sure.
I'm using this, except for Lunati rods, and haven't had any problems with my Canton pan.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 06:50 PM
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I had no problem with my Canton pan and 396. I used a Callies crank and Lunatti Pro Mod rods. I did have to do the normal clearencing to the pan rails on the block though.
You can get the pan on and off in the car but I think I had to lift the motor and twist the pan around off the pickup. (and curse alot )
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