How do you know when ball joints go bad?
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
How do you know when ball joints go bad?
I have mine out right now for a bushing install, they don't move around smoothly, but there's no play in them either. 70k miles on them. I also greased them at about 60k.
Also, when lowering the a-arms, I put a socket on the jack under the ball joint (to keep from breaking the zerk fitting off) and let the spring unload that way. This sort of deformed the metal on the bottom side of the ball joint. Is this ok, or did i kill em?
Also, when lowering the a-arms, I put a socket on the jack under the ball joint (to keep from breaking the zerk fitting off) and let the spring unload that way. This sort of deformed the metal on the bottom side of the ball joint. Is this ok, or did i kill em?
Pro
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 670
Likes: 1
From: charlotte nc
There is a wear indicator built into the joint. Acording to the GM service manual, if the wear indicator is flush with the bottom of the housing (or something to that effect) the joint shpould be replaced. Although 70M is not excessive, most ball joints need replacing aroung 100K. Since you have them out and you also have a doubt as to whether they are damaged, I would replace them if were my car.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,270
Likes: 3
From: Seattle Area WA
Its iffy to say whether or not you killed them or not by indenting the base. As to knowing when they are bad, I think it is what 10 and 2...or 12 and 6, I think 12 and 6. Give it a shake, if it has excessive play, then you got bad ball joints.
An FYI for you, if you do replace them and end up having a shop put them in.
1) Warn the shop (I watched as they did it) and tell them to be careful, they need a specific part to press them in correctly. Most don't have this part however and use a bench press with sockets and adapter plates to get the job done. This works, however a local shop in my area no longer does vette A-arms period because they snapped one doing this procedure. Aka, BE CAREFUL!
2) Buy the ball joint, double/triple check it is the right size (bought MOOG, almost broke the a-arm because it wasn't the right joint) and then throw it in the freezer before you take it to the shop. (Or press it in) It may only shrink the metal to a hair less than what it was, but it seemed to make a HUGE difference when I did mine.
An FYI for you, if you do replace them and end up having a shop put them in.
1) Warn the shop (I watched as they did it) and tell them to be careful, they need a specific part to press them in correctly. Most don't have this part however and use a bench press with sockets and adapter plates to get the job done. This works, however a local shop in my area no longer does vette A-arms period because they snapped one doing this procedure. Aka, BE CAREFUL!
2) Buy the ball joint, double/triple check it is the right size (bought MOOG, almost broke the a-arm because it wasn't the right joint) and then throw it in the freezer before you take it to the shop. (Or press it in) It may only shrink the metal to a hair less than what it was, but it seemed to make a HUGE difference when I did mine.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,270
Likes: 3
From: Seattle Area WA
Originally Posted by dwestsr
There is a wear indicator built into the joint. Acording to the GM service manual, if the wear indicator is flush with the bottom of the housing (or something to that effect) the joint shpould be replaced. Although 70M is not excessive, most ball joints need replacing aroung 100K. Since you have them out and you also have a doubt as to whether they are damaged, I would replace them if were my car.
Isn't the wear indicator the zerks fitting? Once it is flush, you can't grease em up and thus its OBVIOUS you need to replace them. This however is a simple method, I definitly had a bad ball joint that still could be greased up and looked fine!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 935
Likes: 2
From: Beverly, NJ
The best way to tell if ball joints are bad is (while tire is installed on car) grab the tire on top and bottom and see if there is play. If you feel play there,then you will have to get a buddy to look behind wheel to see which ball joint is causing the movement while you move from top to bottom. This is also how you check for wheel bearings being loose or worn. I hope this helps.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 650
Likes: 0
From: Flushing NY
it is easier with a pinch/pry bar with car intact jack up car and stick the bar under and pick up to see if there is any movement if any its on the way out or already there
Originally Posted by darkman5001
The best way to tell if ball joints are bad is (while tire is installed on car) grab the tire on top and bottom and see if there is play. If you feel play there,then you will have to get a buddy to look behind wheel to see which ball joint is causing the movement while you move from top to bottom. This is also how you check for wheel bearings being loose or worn. I hope this helps.
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Actually the lower ones work great.. its the uppers that are stiff. Even after a relube.
I know if you remove the shock the spring will pull those upper a-arms down to a pretty bad angle, so i might have damaged the upper ball joints when I did that awhile back.
I know if you remove the shock the spring will pull those upper a-arms down to a pretty bad angle, so i might have damaged the upper ball joints when I did that awhile back.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
A good source of replacement lowers is ebay. There are a bunch of sellers with lowers for around 50 bucks a pair. Problem is finding the uppers at a reasonable price. I shook my uppers and could not detect any play.
BTW If your going to replace the ball joint boots with the ES kit boots I suggest that you consider the grease you will be using. I used the red boots from the kit and started with my moly based grease. Turned the red boots black. I found a good synthetic "red" grease and purged my gun and the joints. Now everything is red.....
BTW If your going to replace the ball joint boots with the ES kit boots I suggest that you consider the grease you will be using. I used the red boots from the kit and started with my moly based grease. Turned the red boots black. I found a good synthetic "red" grease and purged my gun and the joints. Now everything is red.....
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
I've had all the pieces out of the car for a week now, I'm trying to figure out what the hell to do with em. I guess i'll just polish them until I figure that out.
I'm putting in basic black poly stuff. I have no need for that Ricey Red.
Dan, can I just mail all my suspension parts to you, and you can polish em and swap the bushings? It'd be good practice for when you do yours.
Do you plan on taking them somewhere with a hydraulic press or just getting creative with a bench vise? (I have neither). I mean, ****, I use the washing machine as my workbench.
I'm putting in basic black poly stuff. I have no need for that Ricey Red.
Dan, can I just mail all my suspension parts to you, and you can polish em and swap the bushings? It'd be good practice for when you do yours.
Do you plan on taking them somewhere with a hydraulic press or just getting creative with a bench vise? (I have neither). I mean, ****, I use the washing machine as my workbench.
Last edited by CentralCoaster; Feb 4, 2005 at 09:51 PM.
