Crack in radiator side tank?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Everyday you must choose between the pain of discipline and the pain of regret. Fredericktown, OH
Crack in radiator side tank?
This was mentioned in recent thread, but I didn't want to hi-jack it.
I think (am pretty sure) I have a crack/split in the passenger tank on my radiator. I thought the low coolant was loose pet ****. Topped off system and let it run to get warm. I started to smell antifreeze and thought (hoped) it was just burning off from the loose pet ****.
Well, I got a trouble light and really investigated. Noticed coolant about half way between top and bottom on the tank and then saw what appears to be about an 1" long cranl in the plastic tank.
At this point is this radiator a total loss? Is it worth it replace with a stock one or just go for an aftermarket?
Oh, rate the job from 1-10 (10 being hardest). I've done numerous motor and trans installs in previous cars, just not gotten into the vette yet.
I think (am pretty sure) I have a crack/split in the passenger tank on my radiator. I thought the low coolant was loose pet ****. Topped off system and let it run to get warm. I started to smell antifreeze and thought (hoped) it was just burning off from the loose pet ****.
Well, I got a trouble light and really investigated. Noticed coolant about half way between top and bottom on the tank and then saw what appears to be about an 1" long cranl in the plastic tank.
At this point is this radiator a total loss? Is it worth it replace with a stock one or just go for an aftermarket?
Oh, rate the job from 1-10 (10 being hardest). I've done numerous motor and trans installs in previous cars, just not gotten into the vette yet.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,710
Likes: 1
From: Green Bay WI
Originally Posted by LT-4 CE
This was mentioned in recent thread, but I didn't want to hi-jack it.
I think (am pretty sure) I have a crack/split in the passenger tank on my radiator. I thought the low coolant was loose pet ****. Topped off system and let it run to get warm. I started to smell antifreeze and thought (hoped) it was just burning off from the loose pet ****.
Well, I got a trouble light and really investigated. Noticed coolant about half way between top and bottom on the tank and then saw what appears to be about an 1" long cranl in the plastic tank.
At this point is this radiator a total loss? Is it worth it replace with a stock one or just go for an aftermarket?
Oh, rate the job from 1-10 (10 being hardest). I've done numerous motor and trans installs in previous cars, just not gotten into the vette yet.
I think (am pretty sure) I have a crack/split in the passenger tank on my radiator. I thought the low coolant was loose pet ****. Topped off system and let it run to get warm. I started to smell antifreeze and thought (hoped) it was just burning off from the loose pet ****.
Well, I got a trouble light and really investigated. Noticed coolant about half way between top and bottom on the tank and then saw what appears to be about an 1" long cranl in the plastic tank.
At this point is this radiator a total loss? Is it worth it replace with a stock one or just go for an aftermarket?
Oh, rate the job from 1-10 (10 being hardest). I've done numerous motor and trans installs in previous cars, just not gotten into the vette yet.
Elite Torch Red Member
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From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
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You can replace the side tanks as long as the core is good.
I'm not sure exactly where to get the tanks, but CFI-EFI will be chiming in soon.
I'm not sure exactly where to get the tanks, but CFI-EFI will be chiming in soon.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,719
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From: Fremont Oh
LT4
I have had the same problem twice...
The radiator shroud is kind of a pain to get loose as it has about 8 I think they are 7 mm screws holding it together, along with the other bolts and nuts along side of the radiator.
I replaced the radiator brand new from a radiator shop for about 275 dollars.
In my case the tank split where the transmission cooler lines are located (passenger side). I since went to a external trans cooler. I know on your LT4 you don't have an automatic.
Most aftermarket radiators are about twice that so it is kind of a judgement call.
Hope this helps,
Mo
I have had the same problem twice...
The radiator shroud is kind of a pain to get loose as it has about 8 I think they are 7 mm screws holding it together, along with the other bolts and nuts along side of the radiator.
I replaced the radiator brand new from a radiator shop for about 275 dollars.
In my case the tank split where the transmission cooler lines are located (passenger side). I since went to a external trans cooler. I know on your LT4 you don't have an automatic.
Most aftermarket radiators are about twice that so it is kind of a judgement call.
Hope this helps,
Mo
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,970
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From: San Marcos Texas
I think he is talking about the plastic tank that is part of the radiator...Well it can be fixed by a local radiator shop. But for a few $$$ more you can buy a new one. Where I work we always recommend replacing the radiator..If you spend $65-$95 to get the one endtank replaced, 6 months later the left side tank will probably crack. I bought a brand new stock aftermarket radiator from our local radiator shop for $114 and installed it my self. It will probably cost you a little more around $150 or so because I get a discount. I would only recommend replacing the whole radiator. Its cheap insurance......
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Sounds like you are talking about the "plastic" tank taht is part of the radiator as opposed to overflow tanks
If so, you can drain and pull the radiator, drill small holes at either end of the crack, enlarge the crack itself, fill the holes and the crack with something like JB Weld, reinstall the radiator, hope the patch works and when it doesn't, repeat the process only this time installing a new radiator!
The plastic sucks! I just went through this process, as described above, on my 91 Z28
My advice...get a new radiator and don't try to patch the old!
Stock or aftermarket? Your choice!
But if it were my Vette, I sure like the looks of some of the available all aluminum radiators
Jack
If so, you can drain and pull the radiator, drill small holes at either end of the crack, enlarge the crack itself, fill the holes and the crack with something like JB Weld, reinstall the radiator, hope the patch works and when it doesn't, repeat the process only this time installing a new radiator!
The plastic sucks! I just went through this process, as described above, on my 91 Z28
My advice...get a new radiator and don't try to patch the old!
Stock or aftermarket? Your choice!
But if it were my Vette, I sure like the looks of some of the available all aluminum radiators
Jack
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: San Marcos Texas
I just found the invoice. It was $124.70. The part number was TC046584 and I think it was a Modine. Here is one for $148.64 from an online wholesale shop...
There is nothing wrong with plastic tank radiators, just be aware that they need replacement about every 8-10 years...
http://www.radiatorbarn.com/s7.asp?a...2C5.7L%2C350ci
There is nothing wrong with plastic tank radiators, just be aware that they need replacement about every 8-10 years...
http://www.radiatorbarn.com/s7.asp?a...2C5.7L%2C350ci
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,710
Likes: 1
From: Green Bay WI
Originally Posted by LT-4 CE
No, I am talking about the radiator tank, not the overflow.
I WISH it was the overflow!
I WISH it was the overflow!
The hardest part of the job is removing the upper shroud as mentioned previously. I think I still have those top 7mm screws in a bag somewhere.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by Mr Mojo
You can replace the side tanks as long as the core is good.
I'm not sure exactly where to get the tanks, but CFI-EFI will be chiming in soon.
I'm not sure exactly where to get the tanks, but CFI-EFI will be chiming in soon.
I have never shopped for a side tank. The radiator shop supplied them both times. You can easily pull your own radiator. With your rating system, and checking your oil as a "1", I rate this as a "2". If your cooling system is working well, an aftermarket, all aluminum radiator is overkill for your car and your wallet. If you need/want double or better, the cooling capacity, go to DeWitts, a forum sponsor. I have trouble keeping up with inflation, but it shouldn't cost over $100.00 for the rad shop to put a tank on the radiator you have removed. I have had tanks replaced, twice, but the core is the original '84, 22 years old.
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Thread Starter
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From: Everyday you must choose between the pain of discipline and the pain of regret. Fredericktown, OH
Originally Posted by chriswtx
I just found the invoice. It was $124.70. The part number was TC046584 and I think it was a Modine. Here is one for $148.64 from an online wholesale shop...
There is nothing wrong with plastic tank radiators, just be aware that they need replacement about every 8-10 years...
http://www.radiatorbarn.com/s7.asp?a...2C5.7L%2C350ci
There is nothing wrong with plastic tank radiators, just be aware that they need replacement about every 8-10 years...
http://www.radiatorbarn.com/s7.asp?a...2C5.7L%2C350ci
Wow, that seems like the way to go. I like the idea of re-tanking it, but to get a new one with a warranty for almost the same money makes sense.
Have you or anyone esle purchased from the Radiator Barn?
Last edited by LT-4 CE; Feb 7, 2005 at 08:25 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,719
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From: Fremont Oh
I think my senior mind got ahead of me... I think I spent 175 (vice the 250 price i posted earlier) from the local radiator place, I was a day before leaving on vacation when I noticed the crack in mine... THANK GOD! That would have made for a memorable trip...
The radiator guy had it in later that afternoon and I installed and was ready to go on time...
I still have those screw in a bag too
good luck!
Mo
The radiator guy had it in later that afternoon and I installed and was ready to go on time...
I still have those screw in a bag too
good luck!
Mo
Race Director
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by LT-4 CE
Wow, that seems like the way to go. I like the idea of re-tanking it, but to get a new one with a warranty for almost the same money makes sense.
Have you or anyone esle purchased from the Radiator Barn?
Have you or anyone esle purchased from the Radiator Barn?
RACE ON!!!
Thread Starter
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From: Everyday you must choose between the pain of discipline and the pain of regret. Fredericktown, OH
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
BEWARE of bargain radiators. Many are made "off shore" and don't have the construction to transfer heat as well as the OE rad. Epoxy joints, don't conduct heat well. If it has a brass copper, one row, core, it won't keep up. If it has a two row brass/copper core, it might, just keep, up. For a first quality replacement, Modine is the best. NAPA handles Modine.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
Thanks for the info!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,970
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From: San Marcos Texas
Dont know about the so called "off shore radiators", mine is an aftermarket off brand. It is built just like the stock factory units, aluminum core with plastic end tanks. It cools my 377ci 500hp motor just fine. We have used them in all of our customers cars for the past 10 years without any problems. Just make sure its not a brass core, but I have never seen a brass core rad. for a newer(90-96) Corvette.
I would also rate this job a 3.
When changing the radiator always change the hoses, hose clamps and thermostat if they haven't been done in the past 2 years.
I would also rate this job a 3.
When changing the radiator always change the hoses, hose clamps and thermostat if they haven't been done in the past 2 years.
Last edited by chriswtx; Feb 7, 2005 at 10:21 PM.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Jacksonville FL
St. Jude Donor '06-'09
Modine all the way
I put a Modine in my 87, about 1 1/2 hour work with air tools.
Dropped temp about 20 DEGREES!!!
I spent about 150.00 for the radiator (it was in stock at NAPA) and about 20 bucks for hoses and coolent.
Watch the low level sensor connection, they are not all the same connection. (mine is expoxied in now)
Take your time on the Trans coolent lines if you go with a bigger/thicker radiator like I did. Bend them very slowly to line them back up.
take the time to really flush out the engine, heater core and overlow tank.
Dont drain anti freeze onto the ground, it is deadly to pets and animals that love the stuff.
I changed the radiator cap at the same time, why not, 10 bucks can save a bunch of $. It may not be working right anyway if your rad split.
if you buy anything but OEM the supports in the air shroud probably wont fit snug around the new rad, I used some really heavy weight fowm rumber I had around (actually the inserts from an old life vest cut to fit) The foam makes a great cradle for the new rad and acts as a shock obsorber to boot.
Check fluilds daily for a week or so, you will need to add more fluid a few times to get all of the air out and the sensor may go on and off for a few days.
Have fun
Dropped temp about 20 DEGREES!!!
I spent about 150.00 for the radiator (it was in stock at NAPA) and about 20 bucks for hoses and coolent.
Watch the low level sensor connection, they are not all the same connection. (mine is expoxied in now)
Take your time on the Trans coolent lines if you go with a bigger/thicker radiator like I did. Bend them very slowly to line them back up.
take the time to really flush out the engine, heater core and overlow tank.
Dont drain anti freeze onto the ground, it is deadly to pets and animals that love the stuff.
I changed the radiator cap at the same time, why not, 10 bucks can save a bunch of $. It may not be working right anyway if your rad split.
if you buy anything but OEM the supports in the air shroud probably wont fit snug around the new rad, I used some really heavy weight fowm rumber I had around (actually the inserts from an old life vest cut to fit) The foam makes a great cradle for the new rad and acts as a shock obsorber to boot.
Check fluilds daily for a week or so, you will need to add more fluid a few times to get all of the air out and the sensor may go on and off for a few days.
Have fun
Thread Starter
Race Director
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From: Everyday you must choose between the pain of discipline and the pain of regret. Fredericktown, OH
Thanks for all the replies. Modine sounds like the option I'll seek first.
I've been doing this hot rodding stuff for a long time and know alot about a lot of things. But, there are also a number of thigns I know not enough about.
This forum is great to help fill in all the gaps, particularly for someone who has only been working with vettes for a few years.
I've been doing this hot rodding stuff for a long time and know alot about a lot of things. But, there are also a number of thigns I know not enough about.
This forum is great to help fill in all the gaps, particularly for someone who has only been working with vettes for a few years.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by LT-4 CE
Thanks for all the replies. Modine sounds like the option I'll seek first.
Good move. Unfortunately, the '90 (?) up radiators, without the rad mounted cap, run about $50.00 more than the '84 to '89, rads. NAPA isn't the only supplier of Modine, but if you are going to shop, they are a good guideline.
RACE ON!!!
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
After blowing out both plastic side tanks at a road course, I relpaced my with an aftermarket aluminum unit, BeCool
You can see how much bigger it is, and it does the job. The only warning is, that it will bump you into a different class if you autocross.
You can see how much bigger it is, and it does the job. The only warning is, that it will bump you into a different class if you autocross.
Thread Starter
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From: Everyday you must choose between the pain of discipline and the pain of regret. Fredericktown, OH
Originally Posted by BrianCunningham
The only warning is, that it will bump you into a different class if you autocross.