help with 383 parts
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: Jonesboro AR
help with 383 parts
92 lt1
i am going to build a 383- use existing block. what items do yall recommend. if i never plan to spray over 150 shot, is ti worth the money for the forged pistons? please provide links or part numbers of what you recommend.
thx
i am going to build a 383- use existing block. what items do yall recommend. if i never plan to spray over 150 shot, is ti worth the money for the forged pistons? please provide links or part numbers of what you recommend.
thx
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,518
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I run a scat cast crank, stock rods w/arp bolts and hyperutectic (sp) pistons. This is low buck and a little risky. A cast crank with stock rods and a cheaper forged piston would be a bit better. You can also use a forged crank, aftermarket rods, and high quality forged pistons. Expect to pay between $800 and $1,700 for a rotating assembly depending on your choice. Many variables and many opinions on the subject.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 27,897
Likes: 9
From: I have no tolerence for liberals and fools, but sometimes i repeat myself
CI 3-5-7-8-9 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by Pete K
I run a scat cast crank, stock rods w/arp bolts and hyperutectic (sp) pistons. This is low buck and a little risky. A cast crank with stock rods and a cheaper forged piston would be a bit better. You can also use a forged crank, aftermarket rods, and high quality forged pistons. Expect to pay between $800 and $1,700 for a rotating assembly depending on your choice. Many variables and many opinions on the subject.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 387
Likes: 1
The best setup for a 383 is an internally ballanced crankshaft (scat and eagle both make an internal balance 383 cast and forged crank for one and two piece rear main seals). This way, you can use the 350 balancer and flexplate/flywheel. Plus, internally balancing is just alot better, IMHO, it's all balanced right, not balanced by weights on the balancer, etc.
Also, if you have the $$$, spring for the eagle H-Beam rods, with some arp wave-locs. My buddy did this setup with a 2 piece 350 block and did not have to do ANY clearancing of the block to fit the rods in (the h-beams have a smaller diameter around the journal than other rods).
If your reusing the Lt1 heads, here's a tip: Port the crap out of the exhaust side, and maybe some bowl work on the intake side. Run a set of Manley Race flo 2.02 1.60 valves, and hold on! These heads were the model for the Vortec heads which came out later. They have alot of power potential.
I'd say use more cam than the popular lt4 hot cam. you have more cubes, better flowing heads than you did before (if you port), and have a higher rpm power potential. Just be sure to upgrade those valve springs! (comp cam conical springs are great)
hope this helps....
Also, if you have the $$$, spring for the eagle H-Beam rods, with some arp wave-locs. My buddy did this setup with a 2 piece 350 block and did not have to do ANY clearancing of the block to fit the rods in (the h-beams have a smaller diameter around the journal than other rods).
If your reusing the Lt1 heads, here's a tip: Port the crap out of the exhaust side, and maybe some bowl work on the intake side. Run a set of Manley Race flo 2.02 1.60 valves, and hold on! These heads were the model for the Vortec heads which came out later. They have alot of power potential.
I'd say use more cam than the popular lt4 hot cam. you have more cubes, better flowing heads than you did before (if you port), and have a higher rpm power potential. Just be sure to upgrade those valve springs! (comp cam conical springs are great)
hope this helps....
Racer
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 387
Likes: 1
Another thing -
Hyperutectic pistons are VERY strong. actually harder than forged. The rumors about them being brittle like glass are false. The problems people have with them is when they don't gap the rings to the piston manufacturer specification. If the ring gap is too tight, the ring ends can tighten up and butt against one another, severing the top of the piston.... that's kinda unhealthy for a motor B-).
I'd say the hypers would be fine, IF you gap them right, and IF you are careful about detonation when the nitrous is on. otherwise, go forged.
keep us posted! i'd love to hear how it turns out! I bet you could squeeze 500+ hp BEFORE the spray!
Hyperutectic pistons are VERY strong. actually harder than forged. The rumors about them being brittle like glass are false. The problems people have with them is when they don't gap the rings to the piston manufacturer specification. If the ring gap is too tight, the ring ends can tighten up and butt against one another, severing the top of the piston.... that's kinda unhealthy for a motor B-).
I'd say the hypers would be fine, IF you gap them right, and IF you are careful about detonation when the nitrous is on. otherwise, go forged.
keep us posted! i'd love to hear how it turns out! I bet you could squeeze 500+ hp BEFORE the spray!
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by 4bblC4
Another thing -
Hyperutectic pistons are VERY strong. actually harder than forged.
Hyperutectic pistons are VERY strong. actually harder than forged.
RACE ON!!!
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 27,818
Likes: 8
From: CT
If you're selecting a cast crank, that is a good decision. 383's are torque monsters...not revvers and don't really require a steel crank. Cast crank and mild rods are fine. I went with forged pistons simply for peace of mind.....but I do know a few 383's that used hyper pistons with no problems.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 65,811
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by 4bblC4
Another thing -
Hyperutectic pistons are VERY strong. actually harder than forged. The rumors about them being brittle like glass are false. The problems people have with them is when they don't gap the rings to the piston manufacturer specification. If the ring gap is too tight, the ring ends can tighten up and butt against one another, severing the top of the piston.... that's kinda unhealthy for a motor B-).
I'd say the hypers would be fine, IF you gap them right, and IF you are careful about detonation when the nitrous is on. otherwise, go forged.
keep us posted! i'd love to hear how it turns out! I bet you could squeeze 500+ hp BEFORE the spray!
Hyperutectic pistons are VERY strong. actually harder than forged. The rumors about them being brittle like glass are false. The problems people have with them is when they don't gap the rings to the piston manufacturer specification. If the ring gap is too tight, the ring ends can tighten up and butt against one another, severing the top of the piston.... that's kinda unhealthy for a motor B-).
I'd say the hypers would be fine, IF you gap them right, and IF you are careful about detonation when the nitrous is on. otherwise, go forged.
keep us posted! i'd love to hear how it turns out! I bet you could squeeze 500+ hp BEFORE the spray!
That's the whole deal. Go strictly with the piston maker's recommendations if you're using hypers. Mine required a .026" top ring gap and .018" on the second. Had to hand fit them of course.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 6,172
Likes: 11
From: somers, ny
I would never consider spraying a hyper piston. In fact i would never consider a hyper piston for a perf rebuild .. period! For whatever reason, i've just seen too many hypers break...even NA. If you plan correctly you can use off the shelf forged pistons for almost the same $ as hypers, so why risk it?
Hypers are for show cars.
Hypers are for show cars.