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Having a bit of that behavior with my 91 Coupe. Plan on doing a complete tune-up including the wires. If the tune doesn't resolve the problem, then I will explore the Throttle Position Sensor. Good Luck.
I'm glad that you asked that question, because my '92 Chevy C1500 350 engine with fuel injection is kind of doing the same thing. I hope you don't mind my tagging along on your post (parasiting?) but maybe if we team up we can get more answers. When I'm sitting at a red light idling, I can feel the engine kind of fumbling but not necessarilly missing on a cylinder. I can also watch the tach and see the RPM's drop when the engine fumbles. It's erratic, so I know that it's not a spark plug, unless it's missing inconsistantly. When I accelerate at a normal rate, I get a little fumble, and then it straightens out and runs pretty smooth. If I go wide open throttle, it fumbles slightly, then accelerates smoothly with a lot of power. No missing, no backfire, none of the typical plug-wire-distributor symptoms. The truck doesn't have a MAF. The fuel injection looks more like a carburetor with two injectors spraying into the throat. It does have wires connected to the injectors, so I know that it's electronic monitored. 85,000 miles. No previous fuel injection service. I suspect that it's dirty injectors. What do you guys think?
My '85 Vette does a little wandering too, but not enough to bother me. Your '86 could even have a leaking vacuum line somewhere on the engine. I replaced as many of my vacuum lines on the '85 as I could find and that seemed to smooth it out a little. It idles at about 600 RPM.
If all else fails, increase the idle speed a little bit. The idle is a little slower than the ecm wants it to be, so the iac is opening a little to get the idle back up where it should be. The head on the idle set screw is hidden under a plug that has to be removed. Needs a small torx driver to turn. Or grab the end of the set screw with some vise grips to turn it out a little. Worked for me.
If all else fails, increase the idle speed a little bit. The idle is a little slower than the ecm wants it to be, so the iac is opening a little to get the idle back up where it should be. The head on the idle set screw is hidden under a plug that has to be removed. Needs a small torx driver to turn. Or grab the end of the set screw with some vise grips to turn it out a little. Worked for me.
i found this out the hard way recently, That is not an idle screw its a minimum air adjustment and yes it will serve the same function as holding you foot on the pedal but its not fixing the problem. If that screw is messed with you are going ot have to reset the base idle and then readjust the TPS. That could be the whole problem right there somone ELSE decided to "adjust the idle" with the minimum air screw. ground a and b with a paper clip, turn on the key leave her sit like that for a couple mins to let the IAC extend the pintle then unplug the IAC and remove the paper clip from the ALDL and start the car if it wont stay running crank the minimum air screw out until it will then get under thaere and bach her down to 450 rpms (which is BARELY running) then shut the vert down and turn the ignition switch back on and check the TPS voltage and adjust as needed. plug the IAC back in and fire her off, if it still doesnt idle right at least you know your base idle and TPS are properly set and you can dig into the problem from there knowing that all is the way the general intended as far as settings.
Guys, my 85 had a surging idle last summer, I got alot of advice from the forum. 2 places to check. first you can check your fuel injectors with an ohm meter, they all should be around 17 ohms. second get the car warmed up and then disconnect the O2 sensor, if the hunting goes away replace the O2 sensor. I bought a Bosch at Advanced Auto for about 25 bucks. At idle the car does not surge anymore, however I am still not convinced the car idles as good as it should. I have a feeling that it could be the fuel injectors and that there is more that can go wrong with them than a resistance check will show. I recieved a tpis catalog on friday and they have a test bench that will match them up for 15$ a piece.
Guys, my 85 had a surging idle last summer, I got alot of advice from the forum. 2 places to check. first you can check your fuel injectors with an ohm meter, they all should be around 17 ohms. second get the car warmed up and then disconnect the O2 sensor, if the hunting goes away replace the O2 sensor. I bought a Bosch at Advanced Auto for about 25 bucks. At idle the car does not surge anymore, however I am still not convinced the car idles as good as it should. I have a feeling that it could be the fuel injectors and that there is more that can go wrong with them than a resistance check will show. I recieved a tpis catalog on friday and they have a test bench that will match them up for 15$ a piece.
I was also thinking O2 sensor(s). I like the idea of disconnecting them to see what effect it has on idle......