Installing cam without engine removal
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: crystalriver Florida
Installing cam without engine removal
I'm thinking of ordering a set of heads/cam. I'd like to find out if its difficult for a mechanic to swap out a cam in my 85 4+3 and swap out the heads. I don't like the idea of the engine being taken out, but I'd like to get a rough idea of what kind of cost I'm looking at in labor. I will be calling around tomorrow....
Team Owner
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From: Athens AL
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Everything in front of the engine and the radiator will have to be removed, then the engine will probably need to be tilted upwards to get it in.
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
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Originally Posted by vader86
Everything in front of the engine and the radiator will have to be removed, then the engine will probably need to be tilted upwards to get it in.
That should do it. Remove the motor mount nuts at the bottom if it's set up that way on an early car, otherwise the through bolts and then raise the engine up in a suitable fashion and it should be do-able.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Conroe Texas
HAD TO REPLACE THE BALANCER SEAL ( #@!%^&* NEW SEAL ), IT WAS A PITA TO R&R THE BALANCER WITH THE ENGINE IN THE CHASIS, BUT WE GOT IT DONE. THE RACK AND CROSS MEMBER ARE IN THE WAY. THE OIL PAN IS EASY
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Kempner Texas
I'ce changed cams in my 86 a few times. Never pulled the engine or even had to jack it up.
The only clearance issue, once the radiator, etc., are out is the harmonic damper puller. I simply unbolted the power steering lines from the rack and pinion and was able to install the puller. It then came right off.
I originally posted power brake; that was a brain fart. Power steering line that bolts right in front of the damper is what I meant to say. Once that line is out of the way, the puller can be attached.
That line will continue to drip power steering fluid once it's disconnected, making a mess. So find some way to block it off. I use a piece of hose with a bolt threaded into the open end.
Jake
The only clearance issue, once the radiator, etc., are out is the harmonic damper puller. I simply unbolted the power steering lines from the rack and pinion and was able to install the puller. It then came right off.
I originally posted power brake; that was a brain fart. Power steering line that bolts right in front of the damper is what I meant to say. Once that line is out of the way, the puller can be attached.
That line will continue to drip power steering fluid once it's disconnected, making a mess. So find some way to block it off. I use a piece of hose with a bolt threaded into the open end.
Jake
Last edited by JAKE; Feb 16, 2005 at 09:31 PM.
Race Director
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From: El Paso Texas
Originally Posted by Sleazy Rider
HAD TO REPLACE THE BALANCER SEAL ( #@!%^&* NEW SEAL ), IT WAS A PITA TO R&R THE BALANCER WITH THE ENGINE IN THE CHASIS, BUT WE GOT IT DONE. THE RACK AND CROSS MEMBER ARE IN THE WAY. THE OIL PAN IS EASY
That said, you DO have to remove the P/S line to use the reinstall tool, so you may as well do that anyway from the get go.
