Hard to start when cold?
What should I look into to solve this problem? The engine runs fine and start right up when warm.
The engine was recently tear apart and put back with less than 400 miles on it. It does has an aftermarket head, trickflow. the trickflow head has higher flow.
- New AFPR set at 39 PSI, all injector are fairly new.
- Cold start injector was clean by Curz performance about 15k miles ago, and I can hear the cold start injector working when the ignition turned on in the morning.
- New fuel pump
- Everything were replace with new part when I rebuilt the engine, except the fuel filter and O2 sensor. I haven't check the TPS yet, but didn't think it has anything to do with hard start cold!
Could it be that the cold start need cleaning again? What else should I check?
Thanks,
Last edited by VQT88Vette; Feb 16, 2005 at 12:35 PM.

Not sure how I fixed it but it had something to do with the relay up by the wipermotor.
Also check your fuel Pressure when cold. When you first hit the key first thing in the morning check psi. The pump runs for 3 sec. then takes another 10 sec to reset with key off. do that a couple time and get the reading.
I think my problem was the relay had a bad wire that I found when I was fixing the wipers.
Sorry I can't be more help. Jeff

First check to see if the fuel rail is primed and holds prime when you turn the key On.
If fp is ok, check the CINJ/CLK fuse.
If ok, connect a DMM to the Tan wire at the cold start injector or at the Thermo Time Switch in the front of the intake base. When you cold start the voltage on the Tan wire should drop from +12Vdc to 0. As the engine warms up, that voltage will suddenly switch back to +12Vdc when the cold start injector is shut off.
What's a CINJ/CLK fuse? :o
The fuel pressue hold when the ign. is on. I'll check again tonight to make sure.
Do I need to poke a hole into the tan wire for the Digital Meter?
You can either pierce the Tan wire, or better, pull the connector and jumper the wires between the connector and the device.







