C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

VATS Bypass

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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 12:59 PM
  #1  
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From: chandler az
Default VATS Bypass

OK - my car has screwed me for the last time. I know the vats module is behind the breadbox on the passenger side. What has to be done to completely bypass it. The ignition key pellet has been bypassed since I got the car - but every once in a while It still locks out the ignition. I know it has to do with the switches on the door locks or the pin switches in the doors - but I can not deal with the unreliability anymore.

does anyone have the wiring diagram? Mine is an '88 if it matters.
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 04:11 PM
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According to the 87 manual, there are 2 theft deterrent systems, VATS and UTD. The VATS only monitors the ignition switch and shuts down crank and fuel. The UTD only monitors the door and hatch switches and is an audio alarm only. The manual also states that in previous years the UTD did control engine cranking. As said, this is for an 87, who knows what happened in 88.
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 87SAM
According to the 87 manual, there are 2 theft deterrent systems, VATS and UTD. The VATS only monitors the ignition switch and shuts down crank and fuel. The UTD only monitors the door and hatch switches and is an audio alarm only. The manual also states that in previous years the UTD did control engine cranking. As said, this is for an 87, who knows what happened in 88.
So how can you control the operation of UTD?

Mine's gone off several times for no apperant reason, I made a thread asking for advice on what exactly triggers it (shaking, handles, ???) but I guess everyone was in the same boat as me not having a clue.
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 08:22 PM
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You are having problems with the theft deterrent system. This system
detects a forced entry and blows the horn repeatedly. It is armed and set off by the door jam switches and the door lock switches. The electrical service manual supplement has 4 pages of diagnosis. Most likely you have a defective door jam switch or door lock switch or the wires that go from the door through the door jam are open circuit from flexing or have insulation abraded and are touching ground intermittently. Buy the electrical diagnosis service manual supplement if you want to either repair the deterrent system or learn how to bypass it.
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 08:36 PM
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Well I unplugged my horns for the time being, and it's actually been pretty good. Havn't heard the relays going off since that day..

Hm where do I buy the electric supplement? I'm interested for other things. As far as bypassing the theft crap, are there extraneous sensors on the door locks, or are they monitored from some place else? It would be great to just rip them out. Seriously the more **** they put in these things the worse it gets.
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 09:02 AM
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From: chandler az
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So - What you are saying is that the VATS (or whatever) doesnt control cranking?

I haven't been able to try the old screwdriver on the solenoid trick (since it is buried) to see if that is the cause.
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 09:08 AM
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From: PRESTON IDAHO
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I bypassed my vats with a bypass module that Auto Zone sells for around 25 bucks, haven't had any problems since.
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by brookman
So - What you are saying is that the VATS (or whatever) doesnt control cranking?

I haven't been able to try the old screwdriver on the solenoid trick (since it is buried) to see if that is the cause.
The VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System) controls the cranking (key switch)

The UTD (Universal Theft Deterrent) controls the horn (door & hatch switches)
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