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I've been doing some research into building a stroker (leaning towards a supercharged application).
I know SonnyinVA has a 409 (4" crank, 5.850" rods with a 4.030" bore), and based on this article - TPiS 409 TPiS did a 4.100" bore on a LT1 for a 409 (3.875" stroke, 5.85" rods). I always thought the maximum bore you could safely go before hitting water was about .060"?
What about combining the two for a 4.100" bore, a 4" stroke, and 5.85" ProMod rods? Based on the displacement formula, this should yield a 422 correct?
Judging by how thin my cylinder walls were when the rod went through the side of it with only a .030 bore, I don't think I would bore it more than .040 on an LT1 block.
That's quite the spreadsheet Nathan - thanks for posting that.
There was a guy down here who had a shop called CXI who had a 421 LT1. He used to run alot of nitrous through it(400hp supposedly) He had a valve train failure that ended up destoying motor. He is in jail now for ripping people off.
There was a guy down here who had a shop called CXI who had a 421 LT1. He used to run alot of nitrous through it(400hp supposedly) He had a valve train failure that ended up destoying motor. He is in jail now for ripping people off.
Rod length has nothing to do with it. It's a consideration but ultimately it only affects your piston choice, not displacement.
Agreed, however I find it's always helpful to provide this info as it has an impact on what kind of clearance work has to be done to the block (as well as maintaining a desirable rod ratio).
Judging by how thin my cylinder walls were when the rod went through the side of it with only a .030 bore, I don't think I would bore it more than .040 on an LT1 block.
That's quite the spreadsheet Nathan - thanks for posting that.
Interesting - I wonder how some get away with going .060" much less .1? Do you have any pics of the cylinder walls you'd be willing to share?
The only way to be safe is to sonic test a block before you have it bored. you could possibly have the block sleved to accomidate a uniform cylinder. Try Darton Sleves to see if they make anything like this. By the way sleving a block is not cheap.
The only way to be safe is to sonic test a block before you have it bored. you could possibly have the block sleved to accomidate a uniform cylinder. Try Darton Sleves to see if they make anything like this. By the way sleving a block is not cheap.
Darton doesn't make a integrated deck type sleeve like they do for the LS1 series engines for the LT1 engines. You can use a conventional type sleeve, but its not going to be cheap. Anything is do able if there is enough cash.
The only way to be safe is to sonic test a block before you have it bored. you could possibly have the block sleved to accomidate a uniform cylinder. Try Darton Sleves to see if they make anything like this. By the way sleving a block is not cheap.
Darton doesn't make a integrated deck type sleeve like they do for the LS1 series engines for the LT1 engines. You can use a conventional type sleeve, but its not going to be cheap. Anything is do able if there is enough cash.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
I've seen people pour epoxy into the coolant passages so they could notch for a bigger stroke. But by the time you get through I think your better off getting a turbo or a blower