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Putting drive shaft back on,
Last bolt, torquing it, and ......
I must have been pulling sideways, or .... anyway, I broke the bolt.
So, the questions are: Any chance I can drill it out. I'm thinking the bolt is probably a lot stronger than the pinion, so I dont like my chances of drilling it straight enough. Can it take the pinion yoke out without taking the rearend out? The car is only up about 18", so not much room. I'm not even sure I can get the tool I need to pull it. How difficult is it. Do I have to take the whole rearend out/apart? If I do, I may just take it to a shop and let them do it on a lift. :o
Last edited by 86C4EVER; Mar 6, 2005 at 08:15 PM.
Reason: Should have read pinion yoke, not trunnion
What trunnion? What does the strength of a bolt have to do with the pinion? No, you can't remove the pinion without dropping the diff. Why would you think of removing the pinion? *I* need a clue. Maybe someone else knows what you're talking about.
Man, I am having a bad day.
I'll try it this way.
Replacing driveshaft. Broke bolt that holds it to the rear end.
If I screwed up pinion/trunnion, ignore that part.
Man, I am having a bad day.
I'll try it this way.
Replacing driveshaft. Broke bolt that holds it to the rear end.
If I screwed up pinion/trunnion, ignore that part.
Ok do you mean one of the 4 little strap bolts for that u-joint? Those bolts aren't that strong. You should be able to drill it out starting with a small drill bit to the point where you can kinda chisel it out.
Yes, that is the one. I thought they were called trunnion strap retaining bolts, but I cant even put four on without breaking one, so WTF do I know.
Anyway, thanks, I'll try drilling it out. Not much to lose at this point.
Are you talking about one of the small strap bolts that threads into the pinion YOKE? If you were to remove the diff and disassemble the pinion from the differential, the YOKE has to come off of the pinion to get it out. You CAN remove the yoke from the pinion with the diff in the car, if you are afraid to drill the bolt out, in the car. The pinion nut gets torqued to 200-220 ft.lbs. so it will be tight. It will probably take more torque than that to break the nut loose. You will have to devise a means to hold the pinion and the attached yoke from turning while loosening and torquing down the pinion nut. There ARE tools sold the keep the pinion from rotating while dealing with the pinion nut. It helps when we know what parts you're working on.
RACE ON!!!
Last edited by CFI-EFI; Mar 6, 2005 at 08:01 PM.
Reason: Typos
Ease up a little! I think that he broke one of the 8mm bolts that hold the universal joint retaining strap. I believe that they are called [U]"propeller shaft bolts"[/U] I don't know what you can do under the car. Is there enough of the bolt sticking out to notch and turn out using a hand held impact screw-driver? The impact driver I am talking about uses blows from a hammer to shock and rotation. Since they are only torqued to 18 ft lbs so you may be able to get it out with luck and finese.
When I do something like that the 300 dollar part will break to save the $.05 bolt. If it is broken off below the pinion I would pull it and put it on the old drill press. At least you are not trying to drill out steel in an aluminum part!
I would drill it out and step up to the next size bolt. I'm not familiar with what size bolts those are, but if there is enough material it would be easier to step up to the next size bolt and drill and tap for that size, rather than try to save the hole and threads from the original size.
They might. Any torque applied to the pinion nut is multiplied by 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 times by the ring and pinion before it reaches the brakes.
RACE ON!!!
Back when I was swapping gears all the time I made myself a holding jig that attached to two of the ring bolts and then to the case. It was made so that you could either strap it on to tighten or loosen the pinion nut. Pretty much it was just a strap with a half twist and holes in it.
In lieu of a 3/4 impact it was the best backyard mechanics I could come up with.
It's not like he broke the bolt off because it was rusted or stripped. If you just broke it off because you tightened it too much or you somehow bent it over and it snapped, it should not be frozen in the threaded hole. It's probably loose in the threaded hole now. You might get lucky and use a pick or a dental tool to rotate it out of the hole. If not, then drill down the center so you can use a small easy out. I don't think you'll have to remove it from the rearend. I wouldn't drill it out larger either.
I agree the a dental pick might do it however, if any of the bolt stick out I would notch it and using an impact drive. I have been lucky using them on screw that lost there heads due to rust and corrosion. So a fresh bolt should come out easily.
Back when I was swapping gears all the time I made myself a holding jig that attached to two of the ring bolts and then to the case.
The problem with that is that the diff has to be out of the car to get to the ring gear bolts, and the case.
The tool I am familiar with has a two or 4 bolt "head" that bolts onto the yoke, via the strap bolts. It has a large hole in the center to take the socket for the pinion nut socket, and a long handle for leverage to hold the yoke (and pinion) from turning against the force applied to the pinion nut. With the car on jack stands, the handle of the "holder" could rest on the ground, leaving both hands free for the wrench.
If you drill the bolt, a left hand drill bit may be a good investment. If the broken bolt isn't too tight in the hole, it may back out before you get to the easy out. Do NOT break off the easy out in the bolt. You WILL be pulling the yoke, if you do.