C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

rotor re-surface questions

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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 02:40 PM
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Default rotor re-surface questions

In preparation for some High performance driving events:

1. Can I re-use brake pads I have previously taken off the car, as long as these pads have plenty of material (they are almost new, 80% left) and use with the same exact rotors? (also, I have not changed pad materials, all very close to stock material--no ceramic)

2. When I change pads--mechanic always wants to re-surface. Is this really necessary or BS? I have heard it both ways and I tend to believe it is BS, not necessary. For my wife's Neon, I just put the pad on there and it seems fine.

Thanks,

A
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by sothpaw2
In preparation for some High performance driving events:

1. Can I re-use brake pads I have previously taken off the car, as long as these pads have plenty of material (they are almost new, 80% left) and use with the same exact rotors? (also, I have not changed pad materials, all very close to stock material--no ceramic)

Should not be a problem in your case.

2. When I change pads--mechanic always wants to re-surface. Is this really necessary or BS? I have heard it both ways and I tend to believe it is BS, not necessary. For my wife's Neon, I just put the pad on there and it seems fine.

It's only necessary if the rotor is scored/worn beyond a certain depth. The GM manual gives that depth...

Larry
code5coupe

Good luck!
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 05:44 PM
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Yes, you can put your high performance pads back on and be good to go. When installing new ones, while it's not absolutely necessary to turn the rotors, as long as they're not warped, it's always a good idea to seat the new pads in quickly and get maximum braking performance. On a Neon? It probably doesn't go fast enough to need too good of a brake, does it?
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 09:03 PM
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on turning the rotors, i wouldn't unless pad material was "burned" on to the rotor unevenly, enough you could feel it when you brake.

if the rotor is worn (too thin), replace them.

another reason to turn the rotors is if they're POS to start with and have significant runout.

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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sothpaw2
In preparation for some High performance driving events:

1. Can I re-use brake pads I have previously taken off the car, as long as these pads have plenty of material (they are almost new, 80% left) and use with the same exact rotors? (also, I have not changed pad materials, all very close to stock material--no ceramic)

2. When I change pads--mechanic always wants to re-surface. Is this really necessary or BS? I have heard it both ways and I tend to believe it is BS, not necessary. For my wife's Neon, I just put the pad on there and it seems fine.

Thanks,

A
If you turn the rotors and you tend to late brake on the track, you'll crack them sooner. If they're not pulsing due to runout, leave them alone.

Depending on track, be sure to get some cooling air to the brakes or you risk boiling the fluid on a C4 as you become more comfortable with the car.
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by sothpaw2
In preparation for some High performance driving events:

1. Can I re-use brake pads I have previously taken off the car, as long as these pads have plenty of material (they are almost new, 80% left) and use with the same exact rotors? (also, I have not changed pad materials, all very close to stock material--no ceramic)
If your putting a used pad on a used rotor expect used Brake performance. Not bad but not right.

2. When I change pads--mechanic always wants to re-surface. Is this really necessary or BS? I have heard it both ways and I tend to believe it is BS, not necessary. For my wife's Neon, I just put the pad on there and it seems fine.
If he is ASE certified its because he paid attention to his test and the brake part manufacturers. Resurface to the right RMA finish is required for proper break in, life and performance. Not resufacing is a cost cutting effort during warranty work at the dealer its about saving an hours labor.

On the other hand You resurface a cylinder head for truness and finish but not the block when you replace a head gasket both sides seal. Why because the gasket absorbs the imperfections and does the job it was designed for. If you dont resurface the rotors your asking the pads to do something they were not designed to do. No Brake manufacturer recommends repair this way but its done every day with satisfactory results. Not right but ok.

Thanks,

A
My training says resurface in 99.9% of the cases
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by sothpaw2
In preparation for some High performance driving events:

1. Can I re-use brake pads I have previously taken off the car, as long as these pads have plenty of material (they are almost new, 80% left) and use with the same exact rotors? (also, I have not changed pad materials, all very close to stock material--no ceramic)

2. When I change pads--mechanic always wants to re-surface. Is this really necessary or BS? I have heard it both ways and I tend to believe it is BS, not necessary. For my wife's Neon, I just put the pad on there and it seems fine.

Thanks,

A
One other thing...You'll go thru a set of pads in a weekend so it's wise to pack a spare set (at least the fronts). Can you imagine having to run to the machine shop to have the rotors resurfaced in between sessions? Didn't think so.
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 07:27 AM
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2. When I change pads--mechanic always wants to re-surface. Is this really necessary or BS? I have heard it both ways and I tend to believe it is BS, not necessary. For my wife's Neon, I just put the pad on there and it seems fine.
What does he mean by resurface?

If he's talking about turning the rotor, then no, as already mentioned.
Technically turning a rotor is only done when the rotor has a variation in disk thickness. Even run-out should be handled with different methods.

If he's talking about "hatching" the rotors, then it's a good idea. But you can do it yourself very easily.

Basically it's just a fine abrasion disk lightly worked over the rotor surface. Which leaves a "hatch" pattern.

You can get 3M rotor resurfacing disks at any of the chain auto-parts stores for cheap.

I use them all the time. However, even this is NOT NECESSARY, just a nice touch.
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 09:16 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
Depending on track, be sure to get some cooling air to the brakes or you risk boiling the fluid on a C4 as you become more comfortable with the car.
The track...que Beach Boys background music..."...Way up at Poc_a_no...we'll get there faster and we'll take it slow, that's where we want to go, way up at Poc_a_no...".

Sorry, that was corney. Sense of humor changes with 7 month old baby who likes singing.

Now, more serious matters--will my fluid still boil if I put in the ATE blue high temp stuff, brand new out of sealed metal container? I've had boiling issues before, but 1st time fluid was not fresh and second time it was on the shelf for a while (although sealed, and not ATE blue but Ford).

Would the 13" Big brakes from the GS help with this? I have them ready to mount.

Also, for 2 days at Pocano, from experience, will brand new pads get me by or should I bring the extra set as you say?

Thanks GS, I am buying the Nittos your rec. today. Decided not to mess with patches on the track, even though expensive.
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by sothpaw2
Now, more serious matters--will my fluid still boil if I put in the ATE blue high temp stuff, brand new out of sealed metal container? I've had boiling issues before, but 1st time fluid was not fresh and second time it was on the shelf for a while (although sealed, and not ATE blue but Ford).
any brake fluid will absorb moisture if sitting around long enough (even sealed), and will cause it to boil sooner.

if you buy it off the shelf and use it immediately (and seal was not broken in any way) chances are it will be okay. but, i wouldn't always guarrantee sealed = fresh. (i wonder if there are date codes on those things like beer??)
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by sothpaw2
Now, more serious matters--will my fluid still boil if I put in the ATE blue high temp stuff, brand new out of sealed metal container? I've had boiling issues before, but 1st time fluid was not fresh and second time it was on the shelf for a while (although sealed, and not ATE blue but Ford).

Would the 13" Big brakes from the GS help with this? I have them ready to mount.

Also, for 2 days at Pocano, from experience, will brand new pads get me by or should I bring the extra set as you say?

Thanks GS, I am buying the Nittos your rec. today. Decided not to mess with patches on the track, even though expensive.
Even with ATE, you risk boiling the fluid if you get it hot enough. I have not run Pocono, so I can't offer any advise specific to the track. Make sure the fluid is fresh. The larger GS brake rotors will definitely help avoid fade and cracking.

I would pack extra pads. Cheap insurance to avoid ruining part of a weekend because you need pads and didn't have them. Besides, you'll need pads before the next event, so why not buy them now?
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007

Depending on track, be sure to get some cooling air to the brakes or you risk boiling the fluid on a C4 as you become more comfortable with the car.
Cooling air--would opened up wheels like my A-molds help this at all, as opposed to the fans I was using? How about stainless brake lines--wouldn't help cooling but I'd think might help moisture issue?

Or do I really need a cooling scheme thru the side marker lights? I've seen that once on a serious looking GS at the drag strip, I gathered he was a road racer.

I'll pack the pads just in case on your advice--thanks.
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by sothpaw2
Cooling air--would opened up wheels like my A-molds help this at all, as opposed to the fans I was using? How about stainless brake lines--wouldn't help cooling but I'd think might help moisture issue?

Or do I really need a cooling scheme thru the side marker lights? I've seen that once on a serious looking GS at the drag strip, I gathered he was a road racer.

I'll pack the pads just in case on your advice--thanks.
Open type wheels can help but you can still boil the fluid...at least I have

Brake lines will help with pedal firmness. You should bleed the brakes before the event so that eliminates the near term moisture concern. FWIW, many of the Porsche and BMW clubs direct that the fluid be less than 30 days old or the car will flunk tech inspection. They'll take the driver's word the fluid is good. If people lie, it's their car they stuff into a wall.

For brake cooling air, I have openings in my front air damn with ducts and high temp aero-duct hose that run back to the center of the rotors. Here are some pics of my "Home Depot" special:





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