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Suprisingly, this is one of the easiest thing to do on our cars. I rank it with changing the oil, but you don't have to get under the car.
Just unbolt the gas lis from the rear deck of the car, take off the gas cap, pry out the rubber suround from around the filler neck.
You'll see about 10 or 12 bolts surrounding the plate covering and hooked up to the fuel sender, pump and all the stuff that goes along with that, and several pipes/hoses in the area. Pop the hoses and pipes from the plate, then the wiring connector(there might be two connectors, it's been a while). Then unbolt the bolts and the whole deal comes up from the tank. The pump sort of pulls and slides out from it's mount. Replace everything in reverse order.
The first time I did it, it took about 30 minutes and that included cleaning the top of the tank I could see so I wouldn't get dirt/debris into the tank.
What okinawa86vette said, neighbor. Except *I* prefer the tank full. It isn't the gasoline that's so dangerous, it's the air/fuel vapors above the gasoline that explodes.
What okinawa86vette said, neighbor. Except *I* prefer the tank full. It isn't the gasoline that's so dangerous, it's the air/fuel vapors above the gasoline that explodes.
RACE ON!!!
100% correct. A tank full of gas is much harder to ignite than one with a little gas and a lot of air. In either event, cover the opening with strips of duct tape while the assembly is out.
Also, pay close attention to what Okinawa said....clean off the top of the tank before opening it....debris in your tank is not a good thing.
Check the tech section for my sending unit repair....may as well clean the sending unit while it's apart. If it hasn't malfunctioned yet, it will.
Don't forget to order a new tank gasket when you get the pump. Chances are you won't be able (or want) to reuse the old.
Also order the neoprene "O" rings for the bolts. The ones that came off of mine were either cracked, split or missing altogether. One is required for each bolt.
Don't forget to order a new tank gasket when you get the pump. Chances are you won't be able (or want) to reuse the old.
And pay close attention to the orientation of the gasket. There is a notch in the upper right corner. Make sure you reinstall it correctly. The gasket will fit the other 3 ways, but it won't seal correctly.
Here's a couple pics that might help. I also posted these in the "fuel tank gasket" thread.
Last edited by Frizlefrak; Mar 10, 2005 at 01:41 PM.
I would appreciate it if the CF member from Racetronics would contact me via pm for a few questions.
Mark
Good stuff!
The extra female connector on the black wire is a ground for the level sender. This is plugged into the ground location on top of level sender resistor body. The factory black wire should have been on there as well.
Remove gray terminal lock with small screwdriver on black factory connector. The supplied paper clip is used to release violet wire from factory connector by inserting it into the front channel of connector. The violet wire is to be inserted into the same cavity on the Racetronix connector. Mind the terminal tang so that it provides a positive lock / 'click'.
Clean the rust off of the underside of sending unit and gas tank where the gasket sits with fine sandpaper or steel wool. This is required to provide a good smooth sealing surface for the gasket. Prevent dust / rust from entering the tank. Do not use a wire brush etc. that will create sparks <BOOM>!!!
Lube the o-rings and bolts with the supplied silicon grease before insertion.
What is the pulsator for? I know it is between the nose of the fuel pump and the feed line. On mine, it looks like a black thing with a rusty silver shell with orange holes in the middle. When I changed my fuel pump, I was compelled to reuse it again, making sure it was all tight and secure. Would it have hurt me if I just put a hose between the feed line and the fuel pump and clamped it on well?
The extra female connector on the black wire is a ground for the level sender. This is plugged into the ground location on top of level sender resistor body. The factory black wire should have been on there as well.
Remove gray terminal lock with small screwdriver on black factory connector. The supplied paper clip is used to release violet wire from factory connector by inserting it into the front channel of connector. The violet wire is to be inserted into the same cavity on the Racetronix connector. Mind the terminal tang so that it provides a positive lock / 'click'.
Clean the rust off of the underside of sending unit and gas tank where the gasket sits with fine sandpaper or steel wool. This is required to provide a good smooth sealing surface for the gasket. Prevent dust / rust from entering the tank. Do not use a wire brush etc. that will create sparks <BOOM>!!!
Lube the o-rings and bolts with the supplied silicon grease before insertion.
Thanks! I will add this to the directions. Great Product by the way.
What is the pulsator for? I know it is between the nose of the fuel pump and the feed line. On mine, it looks like a black thing with a rusty silver shell with orange holes in the middle. When I changed my fuel pump, I was compelled to reuse it again, making sure it was all tight and secure. Would it have hurt me if I just put a hose between the feed line and the fuel pump and clamped it on well?
Noise reduction. The rubber hose is to be used instead.