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I am finally ready to start the engine build on my 92 LT1. My objective of the build is to create 425 flywheel horses. Here is my plans:
-Stage 3 heads by CNC Cylinder heads 11:1 compression
-220/230 roller cam
-Gold Roller Rockers
-52mm throttle body
-Stainless works headers 1 5/8 primary running to corsa exhaust
-No Cats Off Road only of course
-Block work will be 30 over (355)
-tuning
Now for the questions
- Will I need bigger injectors to go with this setup?
- Will the standard crank, rods and hypereutetic pistions be ok or do I need forged? And a better question might be are forged worth the money in this setup
- Is my horsepower expectations resonable?
My goal is streetable with reliable horsepower I can take to the track. Autocross, Roadrace and drag.
I am finally ready to start the engine build on my 92 LT1. My objective of the build is to create 425 flywheel horses. Here is my plans:
-Stage 3 heads by CNC Cylinder heads 11:1 compression
-220/230 roller cam
-Gold Roller Rockers
-52mm throttle body
-Stainless works headers 1 5/8 primary running to corsa exhaust
-No Cats Off Road only of course
-Block work will be 30 over (355)
-tuning
Now for the questions
- Will I need bigger injectors to go with this setup?
- Will the standard crank, rods and hypereutetic pistions be ok or do I need forged? And a better question might be are forged worth the money in this setup
- Is my horsepower expectations resonable?
My goal is streetable with reliable horsepower I can take to the track. Autocross, Roadrace and drag.
You are asking for reasonable results. Stock injectors will likely be fine. Factory crank and rods will likely do. You at least should upgrade to forged pistons for insurance.
You are asking for reasonable results. Stock injectors will likely be fine. Factory crank and rods will likely do. You at least should upgrade to forged pistons for insurance.
I would also upgrade the rods to a good 4340 H or I beam. There are Eagles around that are very good and decently priced. You can do a 6" rod in your 350 which is worth a bit more performance. Plus it will help with running 11:1 compression. I am not totally convinced that rebuilding the stock PM rods and upgrading to new hi-strength rod bolts are that reliable. Getting a set of new rods is added insurance, and as stated above will enhance performance and reliability. Off the shelf forged replacement pistons are very reasonable as well, and the added strength is also worth it.
Hell, why not an aftermarket block and a forged crank while he's at it? How about a dry sump oiling system? *I* think the original plan is sound. The power expectations might be a little optimistic, but it ought to be a good runner just as he's outlined it.
Does this mean that the stock crank is sufficient for 425 horseand the weekness in the lt1 is rods and piston?
I would use the crankshaft without any worries. They say that the rods are good for 450+, but my concern is with having to resize the old rods and installing new high strenght ARP bolts into them. And whether or not that that machining procedure weakens the PM rods or not. Also the GM rods are a press fit rod. Meaning the piston pin is pressed into the small end of the rod. When new pistons are installed they to are pressed into the rod. Sometimes when the old pins are pressed out the rod gets galled. The pin should always be heated in a special fixture to properly remove the pin.
One also has to take into account that having to buy bolts, machine the rods costs X amount depending on the machine shop. You can buy forged 5140 rods from Eagle for less than $250 from Summit or step up to their 4340 rods for under $450.
Given the cost of a set of ARP rod bots at $60, labor to rebuild the rods at around $20 each and you have a total of $220 which is nearly enough to cover the low end set of the Eagle rods.
In my old setup I had the same heads, a smaller cam (210/224) and was making 350/351 to the rear wheel. I don't think you'll have any problems attaining your goal... keep us posted.