Technique For Brake Fluid Change
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Technique For Brake Fluid Change
I want to replace the brake fluid in my 87 and from what I've read the "gravity" method sounds good. I don't mind if it takes more time, I have good brakes and want new fluid without stressing out my master cylinder etc. My question is do you open up the bleeder valves one at the time in the correct bleeding order. Will things work out as long as I keep pouring in the new fluid on top? Any experience/cautions or steps that you know work would be appreciated. Regards
Pro
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 650
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From: Flushing NY
get a mityvac or have a friend pump the pedal while you crack the bleeder is good too. use a hose could get messy...
I use the mityvac myself for easy one man operation first siphon out fluid from the master and fill with fresh fluid and start from there.
I use the mityvac myself for easy one man operation first siphon out fluid from the master and fill with fresh fluid and start from there.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
I just use a mity vac hand pump. You can get them at most autoparts stores.
Just fill the master cylinder reservoir, hook the pump to the bleeder valve, pump a little vacuum, open the valve and let the fluid flow. As the flow slows down, pump a little more.
Close the valve, and check the fluid level regularly so you don't drain it down too far and pull air into the top of the system.
It is really easy, puts no stress on the master cylinder and it only takes me about 30 minutes completely flush the system.
Cheers,
Lawrence
Just fill the master cylinder reservoir, hook the pump to the bleeder valve, pump a little vacuum, open the valve and let the fluid flow. As the flow slows down, pump a little more.
Close the valve, and check the fluid level regularly so you don't drain it down too far and pull air into the top of the system.
It is really easy, puts no stress on the master cylinder and it only takes me about 30 minutes completely flush the system.
Cheers,
Lawrence
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 1
From: Lake Ozark MO
The best "one man" method is to hit AutoZone (or equivalent) and snag any no-name "speed bleeder" set.
If your caliper fittings aren't corroded beyond belief then the "speed bleeders" will allow a quick and confident bleed of the hydraulic system. No bitches or 5 foot PVC tubing needed.
If your caliper fittings aren't corroded beyond belief then the "speed bleeders" will allow a quick and confident bleed of the hydraulic system. No bitches or 5 foot PVC tubing needed.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
The service manual shows a different bleeding procedure. The sequence for my 87 is RF, RR, LR, LF 
But the sequence shown for my 92 is RR, LR, RF, LF. Go figure.
Speed Bleeders are a great way to bleed brakes at the track , but don't scrimp on them. I had a set of Russell bleeders and they all leaked. I went with the "Speed Bleeder" brand and have had no problems with them.
But the sequence shown for my 92 is RR, LR, RF, LF. Go figure.
Speed Bleeders are a great way to bleed brakes at the track , but don't scrimp on them. I had a set of Russell bleeders and they all leaked. I went with the "Speed Bleeder" brand and have had no problems with them.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,625
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From: Director of Bands
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by c4cruiser
Speed Bleeders are a great way to bleed brakes at the track , but don't scrimp on them. I had a set of Russell bleeders and they all leaked. I went with the "Speed Bleeder" brand and have had no problems with them.
Oh... and another vote for the Mity Vac. I use the Mity Vac with the speed bleeders becuase I am sorta obsessive-compulsive
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
The GM 1986 Corvette Shop Manual (page 5-7) shows, left rear, right rear, left front, right front.
My son and I just changed over the fluid a couple of days ago using the manual (pump the pedal) procedure and following the above sequence. Pedal is noticably higher now and firmer.
I was trying to track down the cause of an Anti-Lock dash light and wanted to eliminate the fluid as a possible cause. Still have the light though.
But I agree, all the different sequences, Go Figure.
Jake
My son and I just changed over the fluid a couple of days ago using the manual (pump the pedal) procedure and following the above sequence. Pedal is noticably higher now and firmer.
I was trying to track down the cause of an Anti-Lock dash light and wanted to eliminate the fluid as a possible cause. Still have the light though.
But I agree, all the different sequences, Go Figure.
Jake
Last edited by JAKE; Mar 12, 2005 at 07:25 PM.
