Clutch Problems!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Clutch Problems!
Well I've been having some trouble shifting gears for a while now, especially when cold, and I figured that the tranny fluid needed to be changed. However yesterday, I hit it at about 3k in 4th gear and the clutch slipped a little. So I got home and checked the clutch hydraulic fluid and the tank was empty. I filled it up and its like a new car now. But the clutch still slips a little every now and then. My question is, is this a problem with the clutch or is it the hydraulic system. What are good clutch/flywheel replacements and prices. Less $$ is better because I dont have much cash right now. 
Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
From: Go Dawgs!
2 things that might help:
1. filling an empty fluid tank, wont get rid of the leak-look into that
2. The clutch system- i dont know what to tell you about the hydraulics, BUT i can tell you about a few aspects that i know of with the clutch( C, PP, TOB, DMF,)
1. unless you can DIY it will cost 250-500 to pull the tranny to do an inspection (see how much it will cost) and or change the clutch (~400-500)
COST-$250-500
2. you can drive it as it is, PROBLEM: it might just be the clutch now which leads to #3
COST-(OEM clutch is ~375, centerforce ~500, (my two choices i liked, but there are others))
3. if you do #2, and its just the clutch, the more you drive it(as is) the more likely the flywheel will need to be replaced soon(er)
COST-(GM's ~$700(dont pay 1200!) (the option i wanted to stay with, there are other cheaper)
My situation:
I put my LT4 CE in the shop last monday(3-14) and i knew i had to replace the clutch, I knew I wanted OEM or better(i dont have the money but this is what I need and would like-no choice, had to be done), (DMF instead of SMF) so i chose
-Centerforce DF, GM DMF, and while the tranny's pulled a B&M
total cost:
Trans labor - $520
DMF - $775 (tax)
Centerforce - $500 (tax)
B&M - $300 (tax)
Shifter labor- $75 - (instead of 350-400)
Total - $2170
W/O shifter
~$1800
1. filling an empty fluid tank, wont get rid of the leak-look into that
2. The clutch system- i dont know what to tell you about the hydraulics, BUT i can tell you about a few aspects that i know of with the clutch( C, PP, TOB, DMF,)
1. unless you can DIY it will cost 250-500 to pull the tranny to do an inspection (see how much it will cost) and or change the clutch (~400-500)
COST-$250-500
2. you can drive it as it is, PROBLEM: it might just be the clutch now which leads to #3
COST-(OEM clutch is ~375, centerforce ~500, (my two choices i liked, but there are others))
3. if you do #2, and its just the clutch, the more you drive it(as is) the more likely the flywheel will need to be replaced soon(er)
COST-(GM's ~$700(dont pay 1200!) (the option i wanted to stay with, there are other cheaper)
My situation:
I put my LT4 CE in the shop last monday(3-14) and i knew i had to replace the clutch, I knew I wanted OEM or better(i dont have the money but this is what I need and would like-no choice, had to be done), (DMF instead of SMF) so i chose
-Centerforce DF, GM DMF, and while the tranny's pulled a B&M
total cost:
Trans labor - $520
DMF - $775 (tax)
Centerforce - $500 (tax)
B&M - $300 (tax)
Shifter labor- $75 - (instead of 350-400)
Total - $2170
W/O shifter
~$1800
Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
From: Go Dawgs!
i should get my car back tommorrow or tuesday,
i'll let you know what she rides like soft-
imm gonna put atleast "easy" "around town" 1000 miles on it in the next 10 days to prep it for a driving school on teh sunday after next 4-2/3-05
Centerforce reccomends 450-500 miles of stop and go- where i live isnt exactly stop and go, so to do it right i say 750-1000 Mi.,
Plus imma gonna push the car HARD!!!! in that school, and i want it as broken in as possible
- as you can tell by my previous post I AM VERY THOROUGH-
i'll bump, and report what i find after i can push the car as well
-Kevin
i'll let you know what she rides like soft-
imm gonna put atleast "easy" "around town" 1000 miles on it in the next 10 days to prep it for a driving school on teh sunday after next 4-2/3-05
Centerforce reccomends 450-500 miles of stop and go- where i live isnt exactly stop and go, so to do it right i say 750-1000 Mi.,
Plus imma gonna push the car HARD!!!! in that school, and i want it as broken in as possible
- as you can tell by my previous post I AM VERY THOROUGH-
i'll bump, and report what i find after i can push the car as well
-Kevin
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
The car doesn't ever leak any fluids. The shifting has always been hard, my guess is that the fluid was low when i bought it. Another question. When I took the cap off the fluid tank, there was a rubber insert . When i filled it up to the line, the rubber insert pushes some fluid out. Is this supposed to happen?
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
I believe the rubber diaphram is there to minimize the volume of air, since air is compressible and fluids are not.
if you have filled it to the line and quickly psuh on the diaprham your will see some overflow, if you do it slowly, you normally will not.... it's not a bad thing unless it burps and sprays onto your paint.... brake fluid on paint is a bad thing
if you have filled it to the line and quickly psuh on the diaprham your will see some overflow, if you do it slowly, you normally will not.... it's not a bad thing unless it burps and sprays onto your paint.... brake fluid on paint is a bad thing
