'84 Dash Problems
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 538
Likes: 0
From: Long Beach CA
'84 Dash Problems
Hey there folks. I'm sure this problem is familiar to many of you, so here goes.
With the recent rains here in California, I've had some problems. It all began with the all-too-common "loose battery terminal" problem, where I go to start it, and loose all battery power. I fixed it by removing the battery cable and re-attaching it. What was wierd was that it happened the next day--both times after a really hard rainfall. Ever since then, my dash functions have been zilch. The display is very dim, and acts strange. Either portions of the gauges are present, like just the top half of the fuel level gauge, or everything in the gauges is on, like the fuel level reads full, AND the "low fuel level" light is on. All of the numbers are on, all of the warning lights are on as if there were a short somewhere. There were times that the dash used to light up like normal, but it doesn't even get bright any more. On top of that, my "Check Engine" light keeps coming on after about a half hour of driving, but goes away the instant I shut the engine off and back on. I really haven't had the time to troubleshoot this, which is why I'm posting this to see if anyone's had any experience with this. Let me know what you think!
Thanks!
With the recent rains here in California, I've had some problems. It all began with the all-too-common "loose battery terminal" problem, where I go to start it, and loose all battery power. I fixed it by removing the battery cable and re-attaching it. What was wierd was that it happened the next day--both times after a really hard rainfall. Ever since then, my dash functions have been zilch. The display is very dim, and acts strange. Either portions of the gauges are present, like just the top half of the fuel level gauge, or everything in the gauges is on, like the fuel level reads full, AND the "low fuel level" light is on. All of the numbers are on, all of the warning lights are on as if there were a short somewhere. There were times that the dash used to light up like normal, but it doesn't even get bright any more. On top of that, my "Check Engine" light keeps coming on after about a half hour of driving, but goes away the instant I shut the engine off and back on. I really haven't had the time to troubleshoot this, which is why I'm posting this to see if anyone's had any experience with this. Let me know what you think!
Thanks!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,032
Likes: 4
First things first...
It sounds like your check engine light is working- So pull the codes and see what it tells you.
If you not sure how to do that: Autozone will do it for you for free,
or you can do this:
at the ALDL short together pins A and B and turn the key to 'On' (do not start the car)... the check engine light will then flash the code that your getting... it will start with three code 12's, then the stored engine codes... then three more code 12...
how to read a code? well.. code 12 is *flash* pause *flash flash* long pause...
make sense?
It sounds like your check engine light is working- So pull the codes and see what it tells you.
If you not sure how to do that: Autozone will do it for you for free,
or you can do this:
at the ALDL short together pins A and B and turn the key to 'On' (do not start the car)... the check engine light will then flash the code that your getting... it will start with three code 12's, then the stored engine codes... then three more code 12...
how to read a code? well.. code 12 is *flash* pause *flash flash* long pause...
make sense?
Racer
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Oakley Ca
Smells like toast. Check out www.sotelectronics.com. Were recomended by a forum member. One year warrantee. Or call your chevy dealer and ask where they send their dashes for repair.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,130
Likes: 2
From: seattle WA
Well, it sounds like the classic water in the bulkhead connection,
according to Gordon Killebrew this is a very common problem. Because the general never sealed the connection. I'd disconnect the bulkhead connection, there's some black greasy stuff in there-leave it there, it's an anti corrosion grease-but look for greenish or whiteish areas in it (water) blow it out, reconnect and seal the top and sides. Also the cowling drip tube sometimes is directed right to the connection, if it is redirect it away from it. Good luck.
according to Gordon Killebrew this is a very common problem. Because the general never sealed the connection. I'd disconnect the bulkhead connection, there's some black greasy stuff in there-leave it there, it's an anti corrosion grease-but look for greenish or whiteish areas in it (water) blow it out, reconnect and seal the top and sides. Also the cowling drip tube sometimes is directed right to the connection, if it is redirect it away from it. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 538
Likes: 0
From: Long Beach CA
Thanks for the input. I believe all three apply. I've always needed an instrument panel; and I've also fixed that bulkhead once before. Unfortunately it's raining right now, but I plan to persue all three avenues. I believe the first order of business is to check the connection and then address the code. The instrument panel I can address at a later date--when cash allows. By the way, how much do those guys charge at Sotelectronics anyway?
Thanks again for the information!
Thanks again for the information!
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: CA
Originally Posted by Bitter Knight
... By the way, how much do those guys charge at Sotelectronics anyway?
Thanks again for the information!
Thanks again for the information!
