Well it's almost time to get my 85 L98 out of storage and I am not looking forward to the project ahead. I have a coolant leak in the left front intake near the thermostat. You can see the coolant bubbling out from under the intake. Sometime last fall it was suggested that I try Bars stop leak as that worked for one of the posters here. Any more opinions on that route?
I found step by step directions to change the water pump and managed to do that ok. Anyone have directions on intake gasket change. Thanks

 

Intake R&I is very simple on the TPI's.
Remove any accessories that bolt to the intake/plenum. Disconnect throttle/trans linkages from the throttle body. Remove upper runner to plenum bolts. Remove duct & hoses from throttle body, smack the plenum with a rubber mallet to dislodge it and remove.
Remove lower runner to intake bolts, there are 2 "backwards" bolts, one at the front and one at the back. Remove runners. Disconnect the fuel lines where they go to the manifold. Leave the fuel rails in place.
Either mark the distributor and rotor position or rotate the engine to #1 TDC, unbolt the distributor (remove cap & wires) and remove the distributor. Remove the intake bolts and gently pry up on a corner of the intake with a screwdriver to break it loose. Grasp by fuel rails and lift it up and out.
Now, look at the corners of the manifold where the gasket sits. If it looks all pitted and nasty, clean it with a brass wire brush and brake parts cleaner, it must be clean. Next fill the rough areas with JB Weld and let cure. When cured file/sand smooth.
Remove the RTV from the block at the front and back where the intake sits and ckean throughly.
Make sure the intake gasket surfaces are clean. P{lace new gaskets on the heads, put a 3/8" bead of RTV (I use ultra black) on the block at front and back. Set the intake in place and reassemble everything.

 

Thanks, you make it sound easy. I'm worried about messing with the distributer.

 

Chances are you ARE going to have a problem re-installing the distributor, especially if you've never done it before. Most folks who aren't familar with the procedure have the problem

Don't worry though; when you get to that point, we'll walk you through it. The procedure for re-installing the distributor so the engine will fire right away has been posted more times that I can remember. I just posted it, again, only a couple of weeks ago for someone having the same problem.

If you do a search for my posts, you'll probably find it. If not, I can post it again, but it's rather long and I'd rather not have to if possible.

The procedure may be saved in the TechTips section.

Jake

 

BTW, DO NOT use any sealer, like Bars Leak. It'll do more harm than good.

There's only one proper way to fix an intake leak, new gaskets.

Jake

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAKE

Chances are you ARE going to have a problem re-installing the distributor, especially if you've never done it before. Most folks who aren't familar with the procedure have the problem

Don't worry though; when you get to that point, we'll walk you through it. The procedure for re-installing the distributor so the engine will fire right away has been posted more times that I can remember. I just posted it, again, only a couple of weeks ago for someone having the same problem.

If you do a search for my posts, you'll probably find it. If not, I can post it again, but it's rather long and I'd rather not have to if possible.

The procedure may be saved in the TechTips section.

Jake

I looked through your posts and couldn't find. Looked at the TechTips too. Was surprised it wasn't there. Would you mind posting just one more time or email the procedure to me. Much appreciated, Mike

 

I did my '89 years ago and I'm a mechanical moron. If I can do it anyone can.

 

We just did my intake gaskets a few weeks ago ('88 'vert) and basically followed the exact procedure. I had help from my son-in-law and one locasl forum member. It wasn't that hard, but we found it necessary to remove the valve covers to really be able to get to the runner bolts - and in order to get the valve covers off we needed to loosen up the A/C pump and the Alternator (things are a bit snug in there).

Alos, remember to put some tape/markings on the fuel injector connections so you know which ones go where.

As for the distributor - we did both - got it to TDC and marked the location of the rotor before removal. We also marked the plug wires going onto the Dist. Cap to make it easier to put back together. Once we CAREFULLY lifted out the distributor, watching where the rotor finally stopped moving, we marked that too. It took a couple of trys to get it just right, but it all went back together again nicely and fired right up.

Good luck.

 

lol, yeah, I'm a self described mechanical nincompoop.

 

What !!!!!!!!!!!!!
The thing moves?

 

Yes it moves! It's important to mark both the orientation of the distributor base to the manifold and the rotor to to the distributor base. There is a "key" on the bottom that fits into a slot on the oil pump. When I pulled mine out the oil pump moved a little and on re-assembly it didnt want to line up. I pulled the distributor out and with a long flat bladed screwdriver...I moved the oil pump back a little and voila...a perfect line up! She fired right over the first time!

Good Luck and have fun!

 

Do not use Bars Stop Leak. The BEST way fix a problem is to fix the problem. The only think to use a stop leak product on is if you have a flat tire. Fix a flat will get you home. Most stop leak products gum up systems like in your radiator or engine.