..with a adj push rod from trickflow.
When I use the stock pushrod ( 7.200 ), I got the roller tip a bit to close to the exhaust side.
So I adjusted to 7.08 inch, and then It looked right. But I cant find 7.0** pushrods from any wendors? The closes I find is the crancams CRN-10621-16 pushrods from sumit. They are 7.178 long. Is that within a safe "margin"?
Just whant it be right

Cheers..

 

Comp. Cams has a Hi-Tech chromemoly pushrod with 5/16" dia. and .080" wall thickness in various lengths:
P/N............Length
7936-16..... 7.000"
7937-16..... 7.050"
7938-16......7.150"

It seems like the 7.050" would be just right for your needs.

 

You need shorter pushrods?
Which heads (TFS 23 deg?) which cam, which roller rockers?
The cam is stock size base circle?
have you shaved block / heads ?
Thanks
-Beppe-

 

Yes need shorter.

TFS 23 heads
LT4 hotcam
trick flow 1:6 rrs
not shaved heads/block
compcams hyd lifter

 

I orderd longer!!! +.050! with TFS heads 219 cam and comp cams roller rockers.

 

Must be the rockers then?? hmmm

 

I wounder..

When I use the stock pushrod ( 7.200 ), I got the roller tip a bit to close to the exhaust side. Then when I used a shorter pushrod the roller tip whas dead center on the vavle tip. BUT the wear pattern got wider. With 7.200 pushrods it whas 0.078inch and with shorter pushrods it whas 0.118 inch, that looked a bit much compared to this site, as I use for reference
http://krpracing.com/technotes/

 

Be sure about that, you're talking very close to a rod .200 shorter.

Something doesn't seem right with heads, block that haven't been cut.

The old rule is it's always better to have a pushrod that's too long than one that's too short.

Jake

 

You did make sure the lifter was on the base circle of the cam lobe, right?

Jake

 

Jake, sorry for not answer until now. Working alot...

I installed the adj push rod and rocker on the intake valve when the exhaust valve whas 1/2 open. That would make the intake valve fully closed, right?
I painted the vavle tip with a magic marker pen. I then with my fingers tighten the rockers untill zero lash.
Then I rubbed the rocker side to side to make a mark. Took of the rocker, looked at the mark. It whas a thin line just abow the center of the vavle tip, to the exhaust side.
Then I made a new mark on the vavle tip, tighten the rocker again. Rotate the engine 360 degree and looked at the wear pattern.
The wear pattern started from the center of the valve tip, and whas around 2,5mm thick.
Installed a shorter pushrod. And the wearpattern started just abow the center of the vavle tip, but whas just over 3mm thick.

But then I start to think. Is it even possible to use this method when you got hyd lifters? As I got my intake on I cant use a solid lifter??

I also saw this quick and dirty setup tip.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0401_push/

 

If I'm not mistaken the genera rule of thumb is when the exhaust valve just starts to open, the intake valve is "on the base".

 

Yep same as I heard.

 

I agree with the others. When the exhaust JUST begins to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle. How using half-open exhaust instead of JUST beginning to open effects things is a mystery to me. I've never tried it to see what effect it has.

Since you'e using a hydraulic lifter, I'd use the first procedure you posted, not turning the engine.

The mark on the valve stem tip should start slightly INBOARD (intake manifold side) at ZERO lash.

I'm trying to figure out what could be causing you to need a .200 shorter pushrod though.

Jake

 

The thing is when using stock length pushrods and just rub the rocker side to side, the mark is dead on, slightly INBOARD at zero lash.
BUT when turning the engine the wearpatter is wrong. BUT that could be false due to me using hyd roller, and they compress during the engine turning?? perhaps im just fine with my stock length pushrods then..?

( thanks for helping )

 

I guess it would depend on the pressure the valve springs have. If your valve springs are on the performance side in the pressure department, I think they could over-come the lifter spring resistance and cause the plunger to depress, especially at full valve lift when valve spring pressure is the greatest.

That's why a solid lifter is recommended, instead of the hydraulic type. Manley's inexpensive, blue checking tool eliminates all those concerns. Not particularly Hi-Tech, but for $15 you can't go wrong. LOL

I've gone to a few sites and seen different ways to verify the correct pushrod length. There are those who claim the mark on the valve stem tip should show as little roller movement as possible.

On the other hand, CompCams and probably Crane too (haven't refreshed my memory on Crane though) say the roller tip should start INBOARD at ZERO lash, move to the center of the valve at half lift, go OUTBOARD at full length, CENTERED at half closed and again INBOARD at valve closed.

Like so many other things, though, you will get all sorts of differing opinions and recommendations. I tend to go with the industry Big Boys.

Jake

 

Do you feel that the "quick and dirty" test I printed abow, is sufficient, and make a good compromise? I really dont whant to take off the intake to install a solid lifter.
What is "Manley's inexpensive, blue checking tool", and how does that eliminate the need for a solid lifter?

cheers

 

Because the pushrod just sits there in the lifter cup and the lifter spring isn't under any tension.

The Manley tool resembles a rocker arm, but is blue and made, I believe, in what they call phenolic material. One end is designed to make contact with the valve stem tip and the other end with the pushrod. It slides onto the rocker stud and shows whether your pushrod length is correct, too long or too short. Comes in sizes for 3/8ths or 7/16th stud diameters.

If the tool leaves a gap between it and the valve stem tip, this means your pushrod is too long.

If the gap is between the tool and the pushrod, the pushrod's too short

If the valve stem tip AND the pushrod end meet the tool leaving no gap at either end, the pushrod lenght is correct.

To determine how much longer or shorter your pushrod needs to be, you just measure the gap and add/subtract that from the length of the pushrod you're using.

Pretty simple.

Because readily available pushrods come in .050 increments, chances of finding one that is EXACTLY what you need my not be possible. For an exact fit, you'll need a set of custom made pushrods.

When installing a Jesel shaft rocker setup on a 434, we had to go to a company (I believe in Oregon or Washington State) to have a set of custom pushrods made.

For a street engine it's not that critical - within .050 - just remember to round UP. If the length you need falls between two readily available lengths, choose the longer ones.

Hope this helps.

Jake

 

Thanks.

What I did now whas to use the "car craft" setup tips. And that showed me that stock push rods will work. perhaps its not 100% perfekt.I feel like I make a do big deal out of this. And as I have to order everything from USA to Sweden, its time to move on.
I will include a manley tool next time I order something. And then I will rechek the push rods. Thanks for all the help I really learnd something here