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Hi all,I'm new to the forum and have a question about a code 32 I just got on my 90 coupe.The ses light doesn't come on when you first start the car,but comes on later after the car warms up.I have a shop manuel and did the tests to check the EGR valve and solenoid.I manually put vacuum to the EGR valve and saw it move.The solenoid seems to be O.K. also,according to the tests.Code 32 is EGR system and I can't seem to find anything wrong with it.Is there something else to check?Also I want to add,that this car has only 1240 miles on it.Thats right 1240 actual miles.I know this to be true because I bought the car from my brother,who bought it new.This car was in storage for many years and my concern is electrical connections deteriorate.Maybe this has something to do with the problem.Any help would be appreciated,thanks in advance.
Thanks for the info,but where is the map sensor and how do I check it?I'm thinking this has to be something electrical or a bad contact.
MAP sensor should be bolted onto the RH side of the plenum towards the rear.
Checking it for the EGR problem may be next to impossible. When the ECM requests EGR it is then looking for a slight drop in vacuum at the MAP sensor, so unless the MAP sensor is grossly out of its calibration you probably won't be able to tell if it is the cause.
Personally, I would eliminate all of the other possibilities and then try a new MAP sensor, they cost around $45. In fact I did do just that about a year ago with a 91 Formula Firebird.
Might want to change the o2 sensor on the car; although it only has the mileage you indicated, the car is still 15 years old, and electirical parts sometimes die if not used regularly. You don't say if the car has headers, or not. If the car has long tube headers, it will throw that code because of the headers. Good luck, and keep us posted when you resolve the problem.
Well I found the map sensor.All the vacuum lines and the unit itself look like brand new.I pulled the connecter and cleaned the connections and hooked it back up.Wouldn't I get a code 33 or 34 for a bad map sensor and a code 13 for a bad o2?No headers,this car is bone stock.Any more ideas?Thanks
Typically a bad solinoid or short in the harness end will trip the light almost immedately. You might want to just unplug it, plug it back in, reset the codes and see if it stays away. Might have just been a fluke
Although I've only driven the car twice,it seems to be running O.K.I will try to reset the codes and take it for a drive and see if I get the SES light.The light only comes on after the engine is fully warmed up.Now,to reset the codes,do I just unhook the neg battery cable then hook it back up?Does this clear all the codes?I'm really new to the C-4's and all they're computers and electronics,so I have a lot of questions.Thanks
Although I've only driven the car twice,it seems to be running O.K.I will try to reset the codes and take it for a drive and see if I get the SES light.The light only comes on after the engine is fully warmed up.Now,to reset the codes,do I just unhook the neg battery cable then hook it back up?Does this clear all the codes?I'm really new to the C-4's and all they're computers and electronics,so I have a lot of questions.Thanks
Yes leaving the battery unplugged will reset the computer. Leave it undone for about 10 minutes to be sure.
Also, unplug and replug in the EGR soliniod just to make sure nothing is gummed up or corroded up
EGR is only commanded after the engine has gone closed loop (ie, warmed up) and above idle speed, but not at WOT. The ECM will then generate the 32 if the conditions for EGR operation are met, but it doesn't see an indication that it has occurred. Through '89 at least (sorry, I'm not sure about the '90), there is a temperature switch threaded into the exhaust tube from the right header to the manifold. When EGR is "On", the switch closes and the ECM knows that EGR has taken place. If you have this switch, make sure the connector is good and that the wiring is intact - usually it's wrapped up in the injector harness so follow the green wire from the switch to the harness to find the connector.
A 32 will also be generated if there is a vacuum leak. The solenoid shares it's vacuum source with the Evaporative Emissions Canister and there is a Tee fitting that is easily broken, so trace the vacuum lines from the solenoid and make sure that all of them are good. There should be a diagram of all the vacuum lines on the radiator shroud that you can use as a guide.
O.K. after unhooking the battery cable,I took the car out for a good long ride and got no light.Maybe it's O.K. now.The tube you were talking about that goes from the right exhaust to the intake manifold has no switch on it.At least none that I can see.There is some sort of heat-proof insulation on the tubeingbut I don't see any wiring or switch.Thanks all for the help.
O.K. after unhooking the battery cable,I took the car out for a good long ride and got no light.Maybe it's O.K. now.The tube you were talking about that goes from the right exhaust to the intake manifold has no switch on it.At least none that I can see.There is some sort of heat-proof insulation on the tubeingbut I don't see any wiring or switch.Thanks all for the help.
at the end of that tube on the intake manifold , a little to the right and below the distributor there should be egr sensor with a wire attached. check if connection are good..a code 32 will show up only if the temp reaches above 180*F and if the sensor is defective. there is a fix for this, buy new sensor or replace it with diode as explained in 65z01 web site.
BTW must be one nice ride!