I called Summit, although they show one it is not the correct part (it's a master w/o the reservior) (PN - MCL-139001)

I reached out to Chris at ECS, he suggested I call Vette Doctors as they do more C4s. I talked to Carmen and he's only done a few the past year and has not seen those fail. Other than that he had no input.

Maybe an option is to buy another OEM, take it apart and make sure the bore is smooth and clean before installing it.............................
ANYONE ELSE have any ideas?????????????

 

I never looked at the link you posted and Raybestos shows part number SC630017
I should have asked AutoZone about that.
I can check tomorrow with some that has access to all manufacturers.

 

I am curious how they are rusting...

1) I know the fluid is hydro-scopic... but...

2) the unit is pre-bled, complete from the factory.

3) It is then sealed in plastic.

How does it rust?

 

I opened mine up Saturday, you cant get the piston out without screwing it up, so I could not see behind the piston.

But I did drill the orifice / restrictor out to @ .170"

 

I have a new one still sitting on my workbench. When I opened the box for the first time the lock ring and boot weren't even seated right. I, of course, took it apart further and checked things before resetting the lock ring into the bore. It all looked good so I didn't sweat things (other than being utterly pissed that the damn thing came pretty much un-assembled). I hope to be able to install this one within the next week or two.

Prior to this I tried to have the dealership I purchased the previous one from warranty it. They refused. I escalated my complaint to Corporate and ended up speaking with a Technical Service Manager for GM (whose name currenty escapes me) and was told that GM did not have a registered problem concerning these parts and they could do nothing further for me.

Either way, my plan for the time being is going to be to replace the busted one that is leaking at the weld and salvage the boot and lock ring from it and re-build the original slave from the car (it had a torn boot). Meanwhile praying that the new slave I just payed AGAIN for will hold out for the long haul. Otherwise, maybe I'll have the old (re-built) laying around to rely on for at least the short run.

I feel your frustration Rex.

Bogus; the previous slave I pulled out was leaking from the weld also. I did not see any indication of rust on that one or the one I just took apart. Hell, even the original slave off my car has nice looking insides. I don't think the problem involves any rusting IMO. BTW, the two new slaves I've received have not been "sealed" so to speak but more like bagged and taped.

 

Did you replace the hose that feeds the slave? Did you replace the master?

According to Bill @ ZFDOC.com, the hydraulic hose that connects the master to the slave starts breaking down after several years. The hydraulic fluid starts eating away the inner lining of the hose and microscopic particles float off into the fluid. (I think this can also occur with the rubber cups in the master). If your fluid is turning black, abrasive fluid is your problem.

Bottom line, if you don't replace the hydraulic line/master, the rapid erosion of these older components can be a source of abrasive material which saturates your fluid and can cause pre-mature wear to the cups in the slave/master.

Actually, Bill recommends replacing everything (master, slave, and hose) when it gets old. And, 12 years qualifies as old.

gp

 

No I haven't replaced the hose. Yet.

I was able to order the Raybestos unit, I'll have it by the weekend, we'll see if that one lasts any longer.

 

Now that you mentioned it....when I put in my new engine...the 20 yr. old hose broke...I had one made up at my local Hydraulic Shop in NO,LA
No problems since.

 

Raybestos has it on national back order

Looks like I'm going OEM again