in other words, the boiling point of the water can be rised by the addtion of say "coolant" ? this IS good. mythbusters program has nothing on us forum members , we will find the truth.

for the rear bearing assembly one piece unit only? rear bearing assembly
i thought someone tried to rebuild these..so it NOT possible AT ALL?

 

Just saw your post or I'd have gotten back to you sooner.

Your temps look fine to me.

The 1010 gasket is a good one, unless you're running a 400 block. The 400 needs the gasket with steam holes.

I use Mr Gasket intake gaskets, not because they're any better than Fel Pro, but because they're always available at my closest auto parts store for $10. Mine have the full open rear too. So I don't see a problem with them either.

Coolant temp will always be higher when there's no airflow through the radiator. I like to take it easy on my engine until it's at least 200 and I prefer it at 220.

The low coolant light is a problem though.

I can only think of a few things: a leak somewhere, air in the system or not a high enough pressure radiator cap .

If the cap doesn't have a high enough pressure spring, you should see the over-flow bottle getting lots of business. When the pressure of the system exceeds the cap's spring tension, the cap raises and the pressure and some coolant is vented into the bottle.

You'll find the leak by signs on the ground or around the engine compartment.

I believe someone else already posted the burping procedure.

Make sure the stat is open, heater on full blast, and carefully remove the cap. Have your coolant mixture right where you can reach it. (I sit mine in the headlight well).

Reach over bring the RPMS up to 2500 or so and hold it there. You should see the fluid level drop in the radiator as you bring up the RPMS. Add coolant mixture (I use 50/50) til it's at the brim of the neck. I continue to hold the engine there until I see no more air bubbles or until the radiator starts to over-flow, whichever comes first. Then I reinstall the cap and let off on the R's.

If there's air in the system, you should see it bubbling up to the top, but the stat needs to be open, so we're talking HOT coolant: be careful.

Sometimes it takes a few burping procedures to get out all the air.

Having the nose of the car higher that the rear can help too. Same principle as when bleeding brakes. You'll notice that the brake bleeding screws are on the top. That helps get the air out.

Jake

 

Ever wonder most auto makers only put coolant temp gauges, the ones that show actual numbers, on their high performance offerings?

I'll bet it's because most people panic when they see temps over 200F.

Oh, My God!! It's at 200, OH, NO!! Now it's at 202. What ever will I do!!??

P L E A S E !

So give 'em an idiot gauge and they drive around fat, dumb and happy.

Jake

 

 

[QUOTE=JAKE]Just saw your post or I'd have gotten back to you sooner.

yup...this is good

ahh ok....

yupp it sure was defective right outt the box .. new one on it way!

nope.. no leaks.. pressure tested coolant system tonite. temp of motor is 72*f.. pressured to 20 lbs( the instruction indicted to test at this pressure if the system is 17 lbs and test for 15 minutes) i waited one hour... pressure drop was 2 lbs and the temperate dropped to 64*F... i'd say No leaks..

yup first cap was defective, second cap was for 16 lbs, third (new)will be for 17 lbs

no coolants leaks.... the only leak here was outside ....

to the tee...practice makes perfect..third engine rebuild...i'd guess on the burping twenty or more ...this is second nature (we have vettes) that to

.

no stat..while testing the system.. had new 180*F did bench test with feeler guage..another failure... will replace it again with new

well that should just about cover it.. when parts get here, gonna make sure 65/35 coolant mix with DISTILLED water( as before), replace cap, replace low coolant switch. oh and burp it ahh the corvette blues

again i want to thank all, for your thought and Time

 

I test my stats in a pot of water on the kitchen range.

I drop it in along side my meat thermometer - yep, same one that I stick in the roast beast.

Depend on the stat I'm testing, 160, 180, 195 , I watch the thermometer and when the temp reaches, say 160, I look to see that the 160 stat is BEGINNING to open.

I've had a couple that didn't even open when the water was at a full rolling boil. Guess where they ended up.

Jake

 

yup.."more than one way to skin a cat"....

now for finale result.. replace all items...did finall test on CS this morning with temp stable..Still OK... burp system....drove hiway /city...noo problem....just a note on guages...with the actron(electronic temp analyizier)...actual reading 180*F - 210*F....guages are out by 30*F ..reading on clusters 210*F - 245*F...the cause of this problem is due to the temperature sensor on the front of the intake manifold. Appears to be 2 types available. one is for actual gauges...the sensor install is that...another future fix..

again thanks for all the help.

now on to next project : rear wheels bearings. i have been advised that these are complet replacements only!...however, if there is a bearing that is press in, it can come out.. i heard tell that these hubs are rebuildable..do shoot me for this.. i just repeating what i have read...

jake any words to this?

 

Haven't had to change my wheel bearings yet; but I know it's coming.

I've read several posts on them though. Seems to be a split opinion of which ones are the best to go with. I've seen a few posts bad-mouthing the ones that Pep Boys sells.

Of course, you know Pep Boys doesn't MAKE wheel bearings, so if there's any truth to the complaints, we'd need to know the manufacturer's name to avoid them.

Corvette Central has them for the rear of the 84/96 for $159 each (OUCH!) but doesn't say who makes them. Of course, you know that Corvette Central doesn't . . . .

But it gets worse. ACDelcos from Ecklers"s, and of course you know . . ., go for $280/$290 for the fronts, each! and $250 for the rears, also each. For 97/03, the price jumps almost $100 each.

I called my local auto parts emporium (O'Reillys) and got $167.99 for the fronts made by a company called BCH - who ever that is - and the rears were $149.99.

Best I can do on short notice. LOL

Jake

 

The sending unit in the front of the intake manifold is for the ECM. The dash gauge sending unit is in the right side cylinder head, between the #6 and #8 spark plugs.



At least you aren't swearing something you've heard, is true. You are just trying to confirm it. Sorry, no cigar, this time. There is no bearing that presses in. The wheel bearings in the C4 are annular contact ball bearings. Just like the front wheel bearing on a 1955 Chevy. If you're not old enough to know what that looks like, pull the front wheel apart on your kids bicycle. If you're not old enough to have a kid with a bike, pull the front wheel apart on YOUR bicycle. The crank in the bike uses the same style bearing. *I* call them "bicycle bearings". The inner and outer races for the *****, are machined onto the hub/bearing unit. Therefore there is nothing replaceable or serviceable about the "sealed unit" wheel bearings. Way back when, I took one apart to see if it couldn't be machined to take a decent set of tapered roller bearings. No dice. There were no tapered bearings that would fit with the limited amount of meat available to removed. I've done my homework. You can now, advise your advisers. If YOU come up with a way, let me know.

RACE ON!!!

 

ah uhmmm....ok lookin for new bearing /hub starting now..

thanks

PS: sensor between 6 & 8 ordered..

 

Dennis, I posted the prices, do you need the part numbers too or are you getting them locally?

Jake

 

I know this is likely too late and you have moved on to your next job but I also had a problem with my temp light coming on after I changed my coolant. I found that when I jacked up only the passenger front of the car the rad cap became the highest point of the coolant system and I was able to completely fill it. I was surprised how much room it created. Worked the first time. Hope I helped someone.