Brake Power Booster problem
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,522
Likes: 0
I did it just a few weeks ago, I thought it was fairly hard to do. Its really simple, but the bolts are tough. I have a 96, but I think they are the same. If I were to have to do it over, I'd take it to a shop if its less that $200 for them to do it.
A piece of advice: Make sure the Brake Pedal is attached fully to the arm from the brake booster (the foam is on and the clip in place) before you bolt the booster back to the firewall. I didn't, and I couldn't get the clip on without backing the bolts out from the booster.
I'd also do it in the daylight, as it gets dark under the dash, and it gets pretty crowded with lights beside and on top of you.
A piece of advice: Make sure the Brake Pedal is attached fully to the arm from the brake booster (the foam is on and the clip in place) before you bolt the booster back to the firewall. I didn't, and I couldn't get the clip on without backing the bolts out from the booster.
I'd also do it in the daylight, as it gets dark under the dash, and it gets pretty crowded with lights beside and on top of you.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 0
From: Sebastian Florida
St. Jude Donor '06
Thanks guys, cant get over the price on these.
Cheapest Reman was $138 and cheapest new was $184.
Mid America wanted $299 for what looked like a GM one.
GMPartsdirect only wanted $201 + 43 shipping.
Cheapest Reman was $138 and cheapest new was $184.
Mid America wanted $299 for what looked like a GM one.
GMPartsdirect only wanted $201 + 43 shipping.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 192
Likes: 1
From: Western Washington State
Cruise-In VII Veteran
I got mine for $120 or so from Advance/Discount. I ordered it on a Sunday and had it on Wednesday. Pep Boys actually quoted a lower price, but took longer to get it. I think they are all selling the same Cardone reman unit.
Replacing it wasn't too hard on my 89, but there might be more stuff in the way in an LT1 engine bay. One tip that really helped was to put grease in the socket you are using for the nuts on the firewall - that way you don't drop them because there's practically no way you can get your hands up there. Also helps get them started again when you are putting the new one in.
If you could wait until after April 15 I'd be glad to help. Was a 1.5 hour job for me, but could probably do it again in an hour.
Replacing it wasn't too hard on my 89, but there might be more stuff in the way in an LT1 engine bay. One tip that really helped was to put grease in the socket you are using for the nuts on the firewall - that way you don't drop them because there's practically no way you can get your hands up there. Also helps get them started again when you are putting the new one in.
If you could wait until after April 15 I'd be glad to help. Was a 1.5 hour job for me, but could probably do it again in an hour.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 0
From: Sebastian Florida
St. Jude Donor '06
Originally Posted by xeugep
How do those aftermarket, all metal encased brake boosters compare with the cheap old plastic ones? How much are they compared to OEM? A GM stealership wants $600 for parts and labor. No thanks!
