Ball Joints
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Pro
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From: Lake Lure NC
Ball Joints
I know I need to grind the rivets on the top ball joints to remove, however the lowers need to be pressed. Does anyone have detailed instructions on how to press the lowers out and in?
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
I just did these. The uppers aren’t bad, you’ll need to get a section of 2x4 to place between the upper A-arm and garage floor, so it’s supported when you’re beating the rivets out.
The lower is a real B**** you’ll need a press to get the old one out and the new one in.
Clean all the crud off the lower A-arm and use some oil to help slide the new ball joint in A-arm.
Do you have a press?
The lower is a real B**** you’ll need a press to get the old one out and the new one in.
Clean all the crud off the lower A-arm and use some oil to help slide the new ball joint in A-arm.
Do you have a press?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Lake Lure NC
I have a 6 ton press that I think will work. what part of the ball joint do you press against to get them out and in? Additionally, it seems to me that you press them from the top down. Luckly, the arms are off the car, so I believe this will help.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
I changed mine with them still on the car.
Uppers are a piece of cake. I just drilled out the rivets, tapped out the old and bolted in the new.
For the lowers, I just loosened the nut all the way to the top of the stud, put a jackstand and 2'x4" between the stand and arm and a few sharp hammer blows on the nut/stud and it broke free.
Borrowed a tool from AutoZone and pressed on the new ones. Only trick was to make sure the new ball joint was centered in the A arm when using the tool. Took some serious muscle to press it in.
Installing the new lowers took the most time.
Jake
Uppers are a piece of cake. I just drilled out the rivets, tapped out the old and bolted in the new.
For the lowers, I just loosened the nut all the way to the top of the stud, put a jackstand and 2'x4" between the stand and arm and a few sharp hammer blows on the nut/stud and it broke free.
Borrowed a tool from AutoZone and pressed on the new ones. Only trick was to make sure the new ball joint was centered in the A arm when using the tool. Took some serious muscle to press it in.
Installing the new lowers took the most time.
Jake
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,510
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Originally Posted by JAKE
I changed mine with them still on the car.
Uppers are a piece of cake. I just drilled out the rivets, tapped out the old and bolted in the new.
For the lowers, I just loosened the nut all the way to the top of the stud, put a jackstand and 2'x4" between the stand and arm and a few sharp hammer blows on the nut/stud and it broke free.
Borrowed a tool from AutoZone and pressed on the new ones. Only trick was to make sure the new ball joint was centered in the A arm when using the tool. Took some serious muscle to press it in.
Installing the new lowers took the most time.
Jake
Uppers are a piece of cake. I just drilled out the rivets, tapped out the old and bolted in the new.
For the lowers, I just loosened the nut all the way to the top of the stud, put a jackstand and 2'x4" between the stand and arm and a few sharp hammer blows on the nut/stud and it broke free.
Borrowed a tool from AutoZone and pressed on the new ones. Only trick was to make sure the new ball joint was centered in the A arm when using the tool. Took some serious muscle to press it in.
Installing the new lowers took the most time.
Jake
- do u use drillbit about same diameter as rivet, or little smaller?
- how can I determine if my balljoints need replacing?
- I have 67K miles on my '95, shakes/vibrates between 61-68MPH
- I recently put a set of Kuhomos on, balancing weights on inside of rim
- I did NOT have front end alignment when I had new tires put on but had no shake/vibration for about 2 months after new tires.
- If I replace ball joints, should I also replace tie rod ends....???
Thanks in advance
MikeC4
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Originally Posted by MikeC4
Jake- acouple of Q's for you if you don't mind:
- do u use drillbit about same diameter as rivet, or little smaller?
- how can I determine if my balljoints need replacing?
- I have 67K miles on my '95, shakes/vibrates between 61-68MPH
- I recently put a set of Kuhomos on, balancing weights on inside of rim
- I did NOT have front end alignment when I had new tires put on but had no shake/vibration for about 2 months after new tires.
- If I replace ball joints, should I also replace tie rod ends....???
Thanks in advance
MikeC4
- do u use drillbit about same diameter as rivet, or little smaller?
- how can I determine if my balljoints need replacing?
- I have 67K miles on my '95, shakes/vibrates between 61-68MPH
- I recently put a set of Kuhomos on, balancing weights on inside of rim
- I did NOT have front end alignment when I had new tires put on but had no shake/vibration for about 2 months after new tires.
- If I replace ball joints, should I also replace tie rod ends....???
Thanks in advance
MikeC4
You can jack up the car and do the 6/12 and 3/9 wiggle to check for movement for the uppers.
For the lowers, you can do the wiggle too, but also check to see if the zerk fitting has retracted into the ball joint. That shows joint wear. Both my uppers and lowers wiggled. If the arms are off the car and you can turn the lower joint with your hand, replace them both.
If one upper wiggles, change them both; if one lower wiggles or shows a retracted fitting, change them both.
Ideally weights should be on both the inside and outside of the wheel.
I wouldn't change the tie rods unless they needed replacing. I believe in "If it ain't broke don't fix it". But it's your call, since you should get an alignment after changing the ball joints anyway.
Hope this helps.
Jake
Safety Car
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From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Originally Posted by JAKE
Only trick was to make sure the new ball joint was centered in the A arm when using the tool. Took some serious muscle to press it in.
Serious muscle is right... I found that I couldn’t exert enough brute force to just press the lowers in with the arbor press, so what I had to do was load up the pressure on the press and then hit the press a few times with the hammer, then load up pressure on the press again and repeat.Worked great, im sure with a hydraulic press you might be able to exert enough pressure to just press them right in.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Originally Posted by IBEAM700
Serious muscle is right... I found that I couldn’t exert enough brute force to just press the lowers in with the arbor press, so what I had to do was load up the pressure on the press and then hit the press a few times with the hammer, then load up pressure on the press again and repeat.Worked great, im sure with a hydraulic press you might be able to exert enough pressure to just press them right in.
You put the ball joint in the freezer for a while (not sure how long probably over-night) and that shrinks it just enough to allow easier installation. Installation is also easier if the A arm is heated to expand it.
I've never tried doing it that way, but sounds reasonable.
Jake
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,510
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Originally Posted by JAKE
Afterwards, I read about a trick that is supposed to make the installation easier.
You put the ball joint in the freezer for a while (not sure how long probably over-night) and that shrinks it just enough to allow easier installation. Installation is also easier if the A arm is heated to expand it.
I've never tried doing it that way, but sounds reasonable.
Jake
You put the ball joint in the freezer for a while (not sure how long probably over-night) and that shrinks it just enough to allow easier installation. Installation is also easier if the A arm is heated to expand it.
I've never tried doing it that way, but sounds reasonable.
Jake
"Well Dear, how about a couple of roasted Ball Joints?"
(not dissing ya' Jake, I was just visualizing somebody's wife discovering a set of Ball Joints in the freezer.......
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Originally Posted by MikeC4
"Honey, What's for dinner tonight?"
"Well Dear, how about a couple of roasted Ball Joints?"
(not dissing ya' Jake, I was just visualizing somebody's wife discovering a set of Ball Joints in the freezer.......
"Well Dear, how about a couple of roasted Ball Joints?"
(not dissing ya' Jake, I was just visualizing somebody's wife discovering a set of Ball Joints in the freezer.......
400 degrees for 8 hours, season to taste and serve with a tossed salad.
Jake
Racer
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
From: Beach Cities SoCal
Originally Posted by JAKE
LOL: Not only ball joints but how about a side dish of connecting rods. Use to bake them too.
400 degrees for 8 hours, season to taste and serve with a tossed salad.
Jake
400 degrees for 8 hours, season to taste and serve with a tossed salad.
Jake
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Originally Posted by Ivory90
Tossed salad's, *****, rods, and joints! Why I don't do drugs!
Remember when Crinkle Finish spray paint first came out, what was it 30 years ago. The aluminum part had to be heated, then shot with the paint, then baked to bring out the crinkle finish and harden it.
Imagine what that made the kitchen smell like.
Red wine or white?
Jake
