U-joint/Strut Rod question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,940
Likes: 5
From: Chesapeake VA
U-joint/Strut Rod question
I am trying to replace the U-joints in my half shafts. I am following Scorp's photo doc of the procedure (thanks Scorp!). I have removed the Tie Rod bolt, Camber Bolt and Leaf Spring bolt. The current problem I have is that I am trying to hammer out the Strut rod, but I think it is catching on the little bottom lip in the socket. I can hammer it all the way up, but not all the way down and out. Anybody run into this before?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,381
Likes: 87
From: Boston, MA
That thing can be a pain. I've had to use a prybar before to wedge it out of place. If you can move it down some you may be able to get a metal rod between the knuckle and the rod and pry it out. Good luck. 
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,381
Likes: 87
From: Boston, MA
Sorry I Don't. It is easier than the halfshafts in that there is less to remove, but it can be a pain if you haven't removed the c-beam and driveshaft before.
1) Remove exhaust
2) Support engine with jack
3) Remove C-Beam
4) Remove Driveshaft
5) Do U-joints just like the halfshafts
6) Do 1-4 in reverse
1) Remove exhaust
2) Support engine with jack
3) Remove C-Beam
4) Remove Driveshaft
5) Do U-joints just like the halfshafts
6) Do 1-4 in reverse
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by Square
I am trying to replace the U-joints in my half shafts. I am following Scorp's photo doc of the procedure (thanks Scorp!). I have removed the Tie Rod bolt, Camber Bolt and Leaf Spring bolt. The current problem I have is that I am trying to hammer out the Strut rod, but I think it is catching on the little bottom lip in the socket. I can hammer it all the way up, but not all the way down and out. Anybody run into this before?
Originally Posted by scorp508
That thing can be a pain. I've had to use a prybar before to wedge it out of place. If you can move it down some you may be able to get a metal rod between the knuckle and the rod and pry it out.
RACE ON!!!
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,381
Likes: 87
From: Boston, MA
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Am I reading this correctly? You are removing both ends of the strut rod? One end is enough. I found that rather than mess with the camber bolt and cam, and worry about alignment, it was easier to remove the outer end of the strut rod from the knuckle.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by scorp508
Actually you read wrong and I replied wrong. I was thinking the outter side of the rod and told him that part since most people prefer to do it that way instead of what my instructions say.
RACE ON!!!
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Pro
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 550
Likes: 0
From: Hesperia California
Driveshaft
Just took the driveshaft out of my 89 and it took me about 20 minutes.
I did not have to remove anything. C-beam, exhaust, nothing. There was enough room to slide it out the back. The Helms said to remove exhaust, C-beam, etc. The shaft came right out!
Mine was found to be bent, so I had a new one built. Aluminum, ouch!
Lost my high speed shake.
I did not have to remove anything. C-beam, exhaust, nothing. There was enough room to slide it out the back. The Helms said to remove exhaust, C-beam, etc. The shaft came right out!
Mine was found to be bent, so I had a new one built. Aluminum, ouch!
Lost my high speed shake.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 1
From: Hartland WI
Ok, as long as Scrop is here answering questions. I tried to do mine this weekend following his instructions and IT BEAT ME - though it might have been becasue of a lack of tools.
I don't have a "suspension fork" (truth is, don't even know what that is) and could't get the tie-rod out to save my life so I said screw it, and put it all back together for another day. Is the suspension fork the only way to get that out? I tried tapping up on the bolt with a wood block between the hammer and bolt, but nothing.
As for the Strut Rod - so if I'm reading correctly, its ok to remove the outboard side instaed of the inboard? That would be great becasue it looks like I'd have to drop my exhaust to get the bolt out on the inboard side.
Maybe next weekend.
I don't have a "suspension fork" (truth is, don't even know what that is) and could't get the tie-rod out to save my life so I said screw it, and put it all back together for another day. Is the suspension fork the only way to get that out? I tried tapping up on the bolt with a wood block between the hammer and bolt, but nothing.
As for the Strut Rod - so if I'm reading correctly, its ok to remove the outboard side instaed of the inboard? That would be great becasue it looks like I'd have to drop my exhaust to get the bolt out on the inboard side.
Maybe next weekend.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 4
From: Slidell La
Fork
the suspension fork does work for taking apart the ball joint,, but it almost always tears the boot. I prefer to use a c/clamp press system and smite it gently with a 2 # hammer 
. But that is only my technique.
. But that is only my technique.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by rstackjd
I don't have a "suspension fork" (truth is, don't even know what that is) and could't get the tie-rod out to save my life so I said screw it, and put it all back together for another day. Is the suspension fork the only way to get that out? I tried tapping up on the bolt with a wood block between the hammer and bolt, but nothing.
As for the Strut Rod - so if I'm reading correctly, its ok to remove the outboard side instaed of the inboard? That would be great becasue it looks like I'd have to drop my exhaust to get the bolt out on the inboard side.
Maybe next weekend.
As for the Strut Rod - so if I'm reading correctly, its ok to remove the outboard side instaed of the inboard? That would be great becasue it looks like I'd have to drop my exhaust to get the bolt out on the inboard side.
Maybe next weekend.
I prefer to remove the strut rod at the knuckle. That way you don't have to mark the cam to hopefully bolt it back in the same exact position to maintain your rear wheel alignment. Either end works. To me the outer end is easier for several reasons.
RACE ON!!!
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 1
From: Hartland WI
Thanks guys - looks like next weekend we'll give her another go! I may be inept, but at least I'm persistent. 
Somehow I just know I'll go through all this just to find out that the u-joints were just fine and the noise was the wheel bearings - but ah, well, then the whole rear suspension will be practically new.
Somehow I just know I'll go through all this just to find out that the u-joints were just fine and the noise was the wheel bearings - but ah, well, then the whole rear suspension will be practically new.
