I just wished i had the rear higher as leverage is the key in getting out those bolts on the backside. 
Rear Hub Change - Remove Axle?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,818
Likes: 2
From: Alive and well in Burlington NC
If your hub is gone, you can almost bet the U joints won't be too far behind. Might want to think about doing both at the same time. That way, you'll have the half shaft out anyway.
To answer your question, it can be done with the shaft in, but it's easier with it out of the way.
To answer your question, it can be done with the shaft in, but it's easier with it out of the way.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,594
Likes: 0
From: CALGARY ab
Originally Posted by Atok
Anyone ever replace a rear hub without removing the axle first? Can it be done or is it less trouble to remove the axle first?
Thanks
Thanks
1 remove tire, brake, rotor
2 remove cotter pin, retainer cap, 36mm nut, washer,remove tie rod, 18mm nut
3 remove the three bolts from the inboard side of spindle housing
4 remove hub with puller (some times this is not required depending on condition)
5 remove thin washer next to spindle hub, NOTE its location and position
6 , Check for recalls from the general, 88-89 have campiagn #89C17, rear tierod link may fracture on inboard side. check to see if there is a yellow sticker on the driver door, or near the rad. this sticker proves that the work has been done.
check here for links for your vechicle:http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...83&forum_id=48
7 more infromation with diagram of axle this link: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...82&forum_id=48
while the hub is off, an ideal time to check for U-joints wear, if worn, then remove lower sway arm at the cam bolt (mark it first), swing out the spindle cage (remove ABS sensor to aviod damage from inside)and remove short axle, remove u jionts, check rortors and brake pads. before final assembly..
total time for R/R 6 hours...news hubs are 150.00 US SKF #BR93004, used in good condition (F/S)about 60.00us each. U joints splicer, 24.00 each..stock rotors 30.00 each, brake pads 35.00set.
good luck
Last edited by korvette4u; Apr 15, 2005 at 03:05 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by korvette4u
if your going to do just the hub it fairly easy.
1 remove tire, brake, rotor
2 remove cotter pin, retainer cap, 36mm nut, washer,remove tie rod, 18mm nut...
if worn, then remove lower sway arm at the cam bolt (mark it first
1 remove tire, brake, rotor
2 remove cotter pin, retainer cap, 36mm nut, washer,remove tie rod, 18mm nut...
if worn, then remove lower sway arm at the cam bolt (mark it first
I prefer to disconnect the strut rod (sway arm could be misleading) at the knuckle. That way there is no need to mess with an alignment adjustment and worry about reinstalling it back EXACTLY to where you marked it.
RACE ON!!!
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,594
Likes: 0
From: CALGARY ab
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Step 2, Why remove the tie rod nut? I never did for a hub/bearing change.
I prefer to disconnect the strut rod (sway arm could be misleading) at the knuckle. That way there is no need to mess with an alignment adjustment and worry about reinstalling it back EXACTLY to where you marked it.
RACE ON!!!
I prefer to disconnect the strut rod (sway arm could be misleading) at the knuckle. That way there is no need to mess with an alignment adjustment and worry about reinstalling it back EXACTLY to where you marked it.
RACE ON!!!
hope this helps
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by korvette4u
by removing the tie-rod, (basic 101, read instructions, but don't turn it)
Originally Posted by korvette4u
removing the the "stut" is not required when "ONLY the hub is replaced".. removel of that part is only required when doing "U-jionts" AT the same time..I perferr to remove the cam bolt instead BECUZ it is smaller and easier...THEN after that i Will have it align.. so accuracy when replacing cambolt, in this case, is not important. However, the cam bolt SHOULD be marked.
We all have our methods. If you prefer yours, great. I just wanted to present an alternative. You DID help me make it clear that the strut rod doesn't have to be touched for a bearing change. Thanks.
RACE ON!!!
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,594
Likes: 0
From: CALGARY ab
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
If I had followed the instructions (I DID take the time to read them), I would have removed the half shaft, just to change the wheel bearing. That entails disconnecting the spring from the knuckle, the removal of the tie rod from the knuckle and the strut rod at the cam bolt. I removed none of those. I didn't even find the tie rod nut to be in my way.
As I said above, I didn't remove the "stut" rod for the bearing change. I didn't make that clear in my initial post. I commented on removing the strut rod at the outer end for changing the u joints, as an alternative to messing with the cam bolt and the alignment. The bolt at the cam adjustment is smaller, but as easy as it was to remove the outer rod bolt, it's hard to imagine the cam bolt is any easier. AND it saves the inconvenience and expense of an alignment.
We all have our methods. If you prefer yours, great. I just wanted to present an alternative. You DID help me make it clear that the strut rod doesn't have to be touched for a bearing change. Thanks.
RACE ON!!!
As I said above, I didn't remove the "stut" rod for the bearing change. I didn't make that clear in my initial post. I commented on removing the strut rod at the outer end for changing the u joints, as an alternative to messing with the cam bolt and the alignment. The bolt at the cam adjustment is smaller, but as easy as it was to remove the outer rod bolt, it's hard to imagine the cam bolt is any easier. AND it saves the inconvenience and expense of an alignment.
We all have our methods. If you prefer yours, great. I just wanted to present an alternative. You DID help me make it clear that the strut rod doesn't have to be touched for a bearing change. Thanks.
RACE ON!!!
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 6
From: NS
Thanks guys. I'm not concerned with the U-joints, they are only 2 years old with low mileage. Back when I did the U-joints the bearing was a little loose but acceptable to me (figured I'd get another year out of it). Now it's too loose so I have to replace it. A job for this weekend.
