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I just installed Crane 1.6 gold roller rockers on my 95 LT1. I set the preload with the engine running, backing off the nut until I got it to begin clicking, then turning the nut back down until I lost the clicking, and locking it down.( I also installed the lt1 Crane springs )
I got to thinking that since I have never fooled with roller lifters( I have two c-3's) there might be a difference in setting the preload. Is this method correct, or do I need more preload?
Can anyone who is familiar with this let me know if I need to do something different? Thanks, Tom
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Most in these applications run from "just quiet" to around a half turn past. Any of these are fine. If you have aftermarket lifters too, go with their recommendation. I'm running 1/4 turn right now.
Most in these applications run from "just quiet" to around a half turn past. Any of these are fine. If you have aftermarket lifters too, go with their recommendation. I'm running 1/4 turn right now.
I'm one who has considered installing 1.6rr's but always shied away because I'm afraid of the job. I know zilch about valve train work. What's all this pre-load talk, anyhow? You don't just put them on and tighten them up to a certain ft-lb or torque spec?
No, they are not torqued, but instead have the hyd. lifters compressed enough to hold, without bottoming out the lifter. The hyd. lifter holds the push rod up by oil pressure in the lifter. You set the no. one cylinder on tdc of the firing stroke to begin and then pull down the nut holding the rocker until there is no play between the rocker and the push rod Then pull it down one half to one turn more to preload it. I don't have the sequence before me, but you follow it, doing intake and exhaust valves. Then rotate the engine 180 degrees, and set the rest of the valves.
If you are going to put 1.6 rockers on an lt1, you need to replace the valve springs also. Crane makes a kit with springs, hardened shims and keepers. Lt4 springs will also work from what I understand. Installing the springs requires a compressed air supply to hold the valves up while you have the springs and keepers off, and a tool to compress the springs so that you can remove the keepers. This is if you are doing the job with the heads on the engine. If you have the heads off, it's much simpler.
This really sounds more complex that it is. You can do it in an afternoon. Get you a shop manual and follow it. Hope this helps to explain it. Tom
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by BlackRoseLT1
setting the preload is a huge PIA very frustrating and time consuming
Not to be argumentive, but once you've done this a few times, develope a feel for it and have a good mental picture of exactly what you're doing, it's an extremely easy process. I can go through my valves in 20 minutes, anytime.
Originally Posted by Lone Ranger
I'm one who has considered installing 1.6rr's but always shied away because I'm afraid of the job. I know zilch about valve train work. What's all this pre-load talk, anyhow? You don't just put them on and tighten them up to a certain ft-lb or torque spec?
If you get ready to do this, get in touch. I can give you instructions and when you're ready to adjust them, I'll talk you through it on the phone if needed. One of these days I mean to write a tech tip on fool proof valve adjustment for any engine. It's not hard at all once you understand the process.