MAD lowering kit
Before you start, take a tape measure and measure from a point on the FRAME or another FIXED point on the car, don't bother with the wheel wells the location of the fiberglass on these cars was never exact.
Anyway, Looking at the rear of the car, drop the spare tire and carrier if it's installed. Look at the spring. At the ends are a single bolt on each end of the spring, the bolts have a cotter pin and a castelated nut.
Take a floor jack and a piece of 2x4 or whatever to protect the spring. Place the floor jack under the spring and jack the spring up until it takes the tension off of the bolt. Remove cotter pin and nut. Pay attention to which spring rubber goes where and compare to the new ones if you are replacing them as well. Remove bolt. Install new bolt and spring rubbers, put on nut and slowly let jack down. Repeat for the other side.
Take the car for a short ride and settle the suspension. Now, take the tape measure and measure from the same point on the frame from before and compare the difference. Use the jack to take the spring pressure off the bolt and adjust each side until it's where you want it. This is trial and error and will take the most time out of the install.
You have to drive the car for a short distance ~1 mile after each adjustment to settle the car, or your measurements won't be correct.
Once the height is set, head to your local alignment shop. You don't have to go right away, but your tire will start to wear unevenly from the change in ride height. Bite the bullet and get the alignment or you'll need new tires in a couple hundred miles.
http://webpages.charter.net/khasting.../lowering.html













