Hi guys, Its time to wake up the 86.
I have an 86 coupe, with stock heads. It looks like a mini-ram would help, but Im not sure which one my engine calls for?
Is it a difficult install? Does it have any issues I should be aware of? Does it really make anywhere close to the HP tpis claims? (90-100hp)
I know I have to get the fuel rails and a new prom as well. Do the fuel rails have a valve for the fuel supply on the NOS kit or will I have to tap into the rail? Thanks for answers in advance. I will have alot more questions about everything.

 

Personally I have never seen a MR get that kind of power improvement. However the Super Ram has documented proof from many users here on this forum. If you go with the MR you need their fuel rails and lines. They also will want to sell you their chip, and will substaintiate it by telling you that the power claims can't be attained without it. But even with that I haven't see it with or with out their chip.

The SR on the other hand can be used with the fuel rails that are on your car now. It can also be used with your existing chip, however more performance can be had with a custom chip. It is a better all around manifold vs the MR. The SR will give you more low, and mid range power and a decent top end. The MR is more geared for the top end.

 

With the super ram, is it the whole intake or is it just the plenum? I was just wodering if I have to buy the base then the runners then the super ram?

 

With the SR, you will need a bigger base but you dont need the Accel per se, you can use the TPiS Bigmouth or the Edelbrock base instead. The stock base is so poor that spending the money on the SR without buying a bigger base is a waste. SR is a plenum/runners thing, it will bolt to the stock base.

MR is not something I would run unless i had a 4+3, installing it is supposed to be much easier though.

I wouldnt do either with the stock heads and cam. You need to stop and think of a real plan for the engine before you throw money at it. MR goes best with a high-revving engine, and your heads cant support it, and the cam isnt made for that power range.

You need to set a power goal and a budget before anything.

 

So it sounds like if I were to do any the SR would be the way to go. If the stock heads were ported would they be ok or would I need aftermarket heads? would I feel any gains without the heads and cam? I am planning on eventually building an engine or buying a crate motor with forged internals. I just wanted to have the rest of the setup ready for it so it can breath.

 

The SR is probably the better choice for you. But as Vader mentioned you need to make a plan for your HP goals and what you want to do with your engine. All of this suff can become very expensive real fast. And there is no sense wasting your hard earned cash on parts that won't benefit from each other. Ported heads, be they a set of CNC ported 113 GM heads or a set of aftermarket heads such as AFRs or Darts would also benefit the combination. However all of this boils down to what kind of power levels and what your intent for the car is.

For instance if you wanted to drag race it then going with more agressive porting and cam timing would be called for. However if the car is going to be used for Auto X then you aggressive porting and camming that is going to be more for high RPM power isn't what you would want for Auto X.

For a daily driver that is another set of rules, especially when it comes to cam choices. There are cars running well into the 11s with the SR and a relatively mild 219 cam, so the possibilites are out there. You just need to make them a reality with a good plan.

 

Needs aftermarket heads.
You'd feel some gains by bolting it on, but its such a job to do that, that you might as well wait until you have heads/cam ready to go in.

Realize also that you do not have a roller cam, you will either need to convert over using the Lingenfelter kit, or buy a hyd. flat tappet cam.

 

I believe the Miniram's power claim comes from an area in the power curve where the stock TPI is on the downward slope and the Mini is still climbing (like at around 4,800+), not throughout the entire power curve. There are lots of satisfied Miniram users in this forum but they have "balanced" systems (Heads, cam, exhaust, gears). Although I have not used the Miniram, I always thought it might allow the D36 rear-end to survive compared with the Super ram on a "bulked up" motor with drag radials. C4's already launch decently with the 3.08:1 ratio in our 700R's.

Most major L-98 power gains come a little at a time because the engine is already a well engineered piece. So it is pricey to "re-balance" at a higher level. A well thought out plan (power curve you want to achieve) and budget for the parts necessary to get you there is everything to get great results.

 

Not to hijack the thread but I have a question along the same lines:

I recently bought a high flow base/ siamesse runner /ported plenum combo for my L98. Will it give me worthwhile gains an a unmodified engine? (exhaust mods only) Doing the heads/cam right now isn't an option


would it be better off selling the intake and juicing the thing? (It's a weekend car but not a track car)

 

thanks guys. So I cant get a 219 cam to work without a special kit? I have discovered an oil leak from the rear of the intake. I guess since it all has to come off to fix the leak it would be a good time to install the cam and either a SR or just larger base/runners.

Im doing the headers, intake gasket, air pump eliminator, RRs, and nitrous next week and I was just thinking of overlaping projects that I might want done while its apart.

Also I have a slight vaccume leak from the EGR causing the Idle to fluctuate. Is there any down side to just blocking it off since I dont have emmisions testing here? Thanks for the help guys.

 

The downside would be the persistent Code 32, but otherwise nothing.

If you install the cam, you will need the computer chip reprogrammed to make it run right, and the chip can be programmed to delete the code 32.

 

I was where you are about 2 years ago. No, you can't use the 219 without retrofit lifters (about about $500/set!) or drilling/tapping the block for the lifter hold-down "spider". I wound up getting a later-year L98 roller short block and building it up on a stand in my garage. It costs a bit more, but a used and tested roller block can be found for under $150. Then have someone build it up with decent components and for about $1500 you'll have a bottom end that'll take anything you throw at it. When you consider what you'll save with not having to buy the retrofit setup and its special-length pushrods (another $80), plus any rebuild work you'd need to do to your old block, it's not as big a financial hit as you'd think. Plus you can continue to drive the car until the engine is ready.

Downside is that you'd need to pay someone to swap the motors unless you've got the facilities.

[RICHR]

 

That sounds like a a better Idea. I think I will wait on the cam and get a short block to start building. What year car engine should I be looking for that will fit my accesories but be set for the roller cam? Is it corvette only or did they put that engine in other cars as well. The reason I ask is its alot easier to find short blocks from cars other than vettes. Also what years did they add the better heads? You guys are a great help! I am a rookie but I really want to learn fast.

 

Dport heads started in 88, but they'll need a good portjob and refreshening to support your goals of 11's.

87 and later V8s got the roller cam.

 

So for it to work with my setup I guess It would have to be an L98 shortblock, and an LT1 sb wouldnt work? Did they put the L98 in any other cars besides the Vette or was it the same in all GM 350s? Like I said (Im a rookie) Im asking so many questions because there is a big swap meet tommorow and It will be a great chance to get a big start on this project.

 

IIRC, the roller 350 block that was used in the L98 was also used in nearly all of GM's 305/350 V8's from 87+. I know the Vettes started using roller lifters in 87, as mentioned, but I think the F-bodies waited a year.

I personally bought a 91 block from a Vette. Lots lower mileage that way because Vettes usually aren't driven anywhere near as much as other vehicles.

Lots of people here will give you advice about what parts to buy... My $.02 is get as many forged things as you can. Federal-Mogul has nice forged pistons for the price of GM's cast ones, for example. I also found that I could use LT1 lifters and pushrods with my setup; LT1 conn rods also work and are decently strong.

And do not, Not, NOT buy Pro Topline heads!!!

[RICHR]

 

LT1 block will not work for you.

I believe L98s in the F-body might be 4-bolt main, which is preferable, but it can be done by a machine shop to the 2-bolt vette block.

 

Thanks, that leads to another question. Financialy would I be better off building an engine from scratch or just buy a 383 already built ready to go. I have seen them for as little as $3000 with a 6 year 60,000 mile warranty. I am posting another thread for Carb vs fuel injection as well.

 

A whole bunch of people will probably jump down my neck, but I really think you need to stay with FI for drivability. Carbs are great for fine-tuning and getting the absolute most power, but for every-day running I think FI is far better.

Now - these cheaper built engines. Do they have decent components?

[RICHR]

 

Like this 383 is said to be 450hp for $2400.

Block, heads and crank are heated to 700 deg, shot blasted and tumbled for perfect cleaning. Magnafluxed for cracks or defects. All cranks are reground, oil holes chamfered and micro-polished. Blocks are bored and honed to size. Camshaft bearings installed. Rods are fitted with new hardened hardware and resized. Heads are all completely remanufactured with newvalve stems, performance valve springs, and new valve stem seals. A performance 3 angle seat cut (not ground). Assembly is computer balanced (balanced sheet included). Every engine custom built by professional builders. Engines are test ran to test compression, oil flow, oil pressure and for leaks. All engines built with care.

ENGINE HAS 6/6000 WARRANTY AGAINST LONG BLOCK (internal) DEFECTS...
383/450hp, 4 BOLT MAIN, COMPUTER BALANCED,
sbc rv cam up grade
Seal Power hypereutectic flat top pistons and rings.
Clevite 77 main & rod bearings.
Durabound camshaft bearings.
Dynagear 3pc. dual roller timing kit.
Pioneer rod bolts & nuts.
Brass freeze plugs.
Fel-pro full gasket kit.
Johnson performance valve lifters.
Melling high flow oil pump, pickup tube and drive-rod.
Pioneer spiral thin wall valve guides.
Melling hardened push rods.
GM retainers & .060 up valve locks.
Pioneer performance valve springs good up to .525 lift.
GM cast heads, 9.5:1 compression, 1.94int./1.50 exh,
stock rockers
Eagle steel crank
GM i beam rods with new bolts