C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Power for Autometer Gauges

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Old Apr 22, 2005 | 04:50 AM
  #1  
Trizney's Avatar
Trizney
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From: Austin TX
Default Power for Autometer Gauges

Where are you guys pulling power for your aftermarket gauges?
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Old Apr 22, 2005 | 08:43 AM
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From: Cincinnati Oh
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you can pull the +12v source from anywhere - you can even run a dedicated, fused line from any keyed source. the hard part is finding the right wire!

What I did was (when I replaced the cluster with guages) use a wiring diagram to find the two +12v keyed sources and then I wired everything in parallel. I also used the dash ground sources - this way everything was fused through the existing fuse block and I didn't have to spend too much time running wire.

If you're keeping the dash and adding guages, you might have more of a time keeping from blowing fuses - since I replaced everything at once I didn't think much of it.

The +12v wires are twisted red/black, and if memory serves the keyed on/off sources are in the ~C-12 and D-12 slots on the harness connectors that plug into the dash cluster (the two bigger ones - they're labeled if you look). Just double-check me on those as it's been about a year and I
am not positive of those locations.
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Old Apr 22, 2005 | 11:34 AM
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You can get key on power from a lot of sources, one easy way is to just tap into the power and ground from your radio. That way you can run the wires under the plastic around the radio so nobody can see it.
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Old Apr 22, 2005 | 12:41 PM
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From: SE NY
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If you tap into the Gry wire (color for '88 Vette) going from the 3A Inst Fuse into the radio you will have switched & dimmed power to your new gauges.

Be sure to check power draw so you can bump the Inst Fuse size if necessary. You should be able to go to a 5A and still be safe.
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Old Apr 24, 2005 | 01:04 AM
  #5  
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Trizney
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From: Austin TX
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Tapping the 12V from the radio makes much sense. Never thought of that.

Currently, I was running the power from the cluster of wires under the dash, by the clucth pedal, and it was drawing too much power and causing tach flutter.
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