MY 95s Fx 3 is giving me nightmares. When i bought the car 2 years ago, it didnt work and I was getting out of position and time out codes for the front shocks only. I checked out all the shocks and they all were leaking oil so I bought four new shocks by Bilstein and installed.. I also found the two front actuators to be broke so I replaced those with used ones that were said to be good. Now, I get timed out codes for all 4 shocks!! yes even the two rear which were fine before. I thought there was a chance that my comp module for the FX3 was acting up so I replaced it and cleared the codes and its still the same. I checked the connectors for corrosion and cleaned them real good. I still get all four wheels are timed out codes. One idea I havent tryed is checking the ground. I guess its on a tranny bolt. or does anyone think that maybe the old actuators arnt able to turn the new Bilstein shocks quick enough so its sending time out codes?? any suggestions will be greatly appreciated

 

First thing that comes to mind;
Are you aware that there are two versions of the FX-3 shocks? Early ones rotate (the piston in the shock) 160* and were used on `89-`91s. The later version, `92-`95, only rotates 90*

Maybe you bought the early style? You can easily check by removing the front actuators and seeing how much the gear on piston rotates.

 

thanks for the responce...i went and checked and i do have the correct shocks.. the shaft turns about 90 degrees....

 

To check the actuators, remove actuator from shock but leave it plugged in. Have someone turn the key to on position. The actuator should rotate looking for home position. If white gear in actuator doesn' turn actuator is bad. Check all four. Also make sure when you changed the fx3 computer, that you didn't put in one for older system that may be searching for other shock rotation. Good luck and hope you find the problem. Rich

 

thanks rich.. i did the actuator check and they did the movement like they should.. some do move more than others. I installed the original computer after the one i bought had the same results. I have a service manual and went through all the steps it suggests too.. Whats got me on this is why do all four show the time out codes when before i replaced the shocks only the front two did. The little gears on the top of the shocks dont turn too difficultly. I also dont get the out of position codes like i did when the gears were broke.. another thing i did today was cleaned all the connections at the end of the actuators...

 

Ill be watchin this one.... I pulled the bulb untill I can fix it right

 

i refuse to pull the bulb.. i love that $1700 option, i wont give up on it. Im just running out of things to try.. IM about to buy a new actuator and see if the shock i put it on is ok then... but $250 !!!! anyways..

 

Ttt

 

So you are saying that you have checked both the shock gears and all the actuators and things appear to be okay? I think I would be tempted to try to start over with a clean slate. I would disconnect the battery for a few minutes and hook it back up and turn the key. This wouldn't solve the problem if there was something broken in the system. It may make so you don't have a whole bunch of codes that aren't really correct. I helped a guy not too long ago that was getting a time out code for one rear wheel. He checked the gear and actuator and both appeared to be fine. I told him to check the other wheels in case he somehow got the codes wrong when he read them. He switched the actuator to the other side of the car, went for a drive and said the src light had gone out. Problem fixed!
I think everytime you pull an actuator and turn the key to check it that may be adding a code to the system. If everything in the system was okay and the src light was off and you pull an actuator and turn the key then the light would come on and a code would be produced. If you put the actuator back on and turn the key the light would go back off but I'm not sure if the code remains.
On a 91' when the key is turned, the actuator turns the shock gear full clockwise until the stop is found and then backs the gear off the stop about one tooth. It does this in every setting on the console, same for tour, perf, sport. After you take the car out for a ride the computer will set the actuator to turn the gear to the correct position. So if you were to set your ride to "tour" and go out for a drive; when you stop the car you could pull off an actuator and the gear on the shock would be turned all the way clockwise against the stop. If you had set it to "perf" the gear would be all the way against the counterclockwise stop. "sport" would be halfway in the middle of the travel not against any stop.
Just some thoughts.

 

thanks captain for your thoughts.. yes the shocks are new and the actuators are all ok (used ebay ones) Ive reset the computer by doing the grounding out for 2 seconds, 3 times, several times with it. I clear it then as soon as i turn key to on position again... it sets those time out codes again when it does its system check.. its thinking the actuators arnt doing there little check quick enough. whats really got me bugged is why is it doing that (and only that) code for all four wheels?? At 1st i was just getting time out and out of position codes for the front two ( they were the broken ones). Might have something to do with all 4 being new and the actuators being used.. I dunnoo.... driving me crazy

 

Hi,

I had a similar problem with my right front. The problem I had was the shock was sitting in to deep (in the actuator). The way I tested this was I had my wife in the car while I moved the actuator up and down (with another shock not installed) till the light went out and on. The bushing on the shocks over time wear out and the shock will sit to far in the actuator. The way I fixed it was I added a washer to the bushing. (I know it needs a new bushing)

This fix has been fine since 2001! (Never a FX3 code) And I also run the car at the track 2-4 times a year.

One other thing, I am pretty sure if you start up the car or even put the key on 3 times without moving the vehicle-it will throw a code.

Steven

 

thanks steven.. makes sence... maybe its up too high and causing resistence up inside the actuator. the bushings are all the originals. When i bought the new shocks.. i did reused the bushings... maybe i cranked them down tight and they are up higher than the others were. I know what im doing to day thanks a bunch....ill let u all know if this solves it... Jeff

 

The correct torque for the front shocks is 30 ft lbs on the top nut. Try that. The bottom bolt torque is 19 ft lbs (that shouldn't make any difference though).

 

Just read your post on the ZR1 forum-glad you got it fix! The bushings were the same problem with mine.

Steven

 

What is the height of the gear on the shock supposed to be? That would be the only way to tell if the bushing is shot that I can think of?

 

the top of the little gear is suppose to be .178 inches over the top of the gold collar. mine was .250 over it. after i replaced the bushings it was about right.. light went out and after i cleared the codes it works great !!