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In two weeks Im going to put in a hotcam with RR in my 94. I'm also putting in a DR timing chain, new opti, and meziers water pump.
Are there any specialty tools I need or anything that will make the job easier. Right now I have the kent moore puller for the balancer/hub, a comp cams kit to degree the cam, intake/exhaust valve seal installer, torque wrenches... anything else I'm missing here? Two weeks should be plenty of time to order something if I dont have it.
If anyone is wondering the engine has 150k on it and I've gotten numerous suggestions from I will be "guaranteed" to spin a bearing to it being very unlikely. I called comp cams and they said even if the car had 200k on it, it shouldnt spin a bearing unless the engine was not maintaind right (and I didnt even buy the cam from them). Either way if the engine blows up it will be a good excuse to drop in a new crate
if you've got basic tools ur good to go....good luck with it. i'm no pro and the hardest part is/was settign the roller rockers....also did heads and other stuff at the time
Take some pics if you can. I want to do the same thing on my 95 but I keep looking at that balancer. That looks like a SOB to remove.
What was the thinking behind spinning a bearing? Thats the last thing on my mind.
Im planning on taking some pics... and the balancer is supposed to be a piece of cake ot remove with that kent moore tool I mentioned. The tool is around $230 though, but from what I've heard it is well worth it.
As far as spinning a bearing some say that with an engine that has this many miles the bottom end needs to be beefed up since the bearings are worn. Nathon Plemmons from here put one in a high mileage 92 without any problems. After I received some posts about spinning a bearing I asked if anyone has seem this first hand on an LT1 or have even seen a post on here of it happening. As I recall someone rememered seeing 1 post about it. I think its mostly rumors or info from the camaro boards with sloppy installs. So with so many people saying I will spin a bearing no one posted they saw this happen to an LT1 first hand.
From what I've gathered, you should be fine if the engine was properly maintained, you do a clean install without contaminating the engine, drive it easy for the first few hundred miles, and don't over rev your engine. Im prepared to put in a new engine if it does happen though.
Last edited by dan6712cc; Apr 24, 2005 at 04:03 AM.
I put mine in with ported heads at 100,000 miles. As you already said keep it clean. I put less then 5 miles on mine before loading it on a trailer and going drag racing. I guess I was lucky. Take pictures of the vacuum hook ups, wiring harness brackets etc. That would have been handy to have on reassembly if I was to do it again.
About vacuum hookups...Im not sure how to hook up the vacuum tubes on the 95-96 opti im putting in my 94. Does anyone have a diagram or a pic of their 95-96 showing where these tubes go?
On mine, this is what I did. I got a tee that screwed into one of the ports on my intake and that supplied vacuum. On the other end, I have heard that you are to tie it into the air intake somewhere. What I did was use a small inline fuel filter and laid it under the intake cover. I have heard others say to run it into the cabin of the vehicle and pull air from under the firewall.
Don't forget the valve spring compresor. Getting the old spark plugs out and the air line connected was a pain in the a$$. When you get started PM I have some things that can help you save a little time. I would be happy to share all my info on it. Good luck.
From: I'm the walkin dude I can see all of the world...
St. Jude Donor '03
Originally Posted by dan6712cc
Where do they sell the attatchment for the compressed air to hook up to the spark plug sockets? Would sears sell something like this?
Get a compression testing kit from autozone. These have the correct fitting which will plug into a compressor.
Get the kent moore balancing tool. (I'm having issue with that bastard hub right now) tool in now in the mail.
With 150K on the clock you probably ought to do head gaskets while you are in there. Its only a few more steps. Since my motor had 144K on it I decided to use some Felpro LT-1 gaskets through Summit.
I will send you a bunch of photo's of the cam install if you need em. I already have a few loaded in the "My Corvette Pics" to the left.
Get a compression testing kit from autozone. These have the correct fitting which will plug into a compressor.
Get the kent moore balancing tool. (I'm having issue with that bastard hub right now) tool in now in the mail.
With 150K on the clock you probably ought to do head gaskets while you are in there. Its only a few more steps. Since my motor had 144K on it I decided to use some Felpro LT-1 gaskets through Summit.
I will send you a bunch of photo's of the cam install if you need em. I already have a few loaded in the "My Corvette Pics" to the left.
Just got the kit from autozone today, it has a 14 mm thread that goes into the spark plug hole and an adapter for an air hose. I've had the kent moore for almost a month now, been planning on putting this cam in a for a while and finally will have some time off.
I want to do the gaskets but im not sure if I'll have enough time, how long do you think it would take to remove the heads and replace the gaskets? Pics would help out alot
From: I'm the walkin dude I can see all of the world...
St. Jude Donor '03
Originally Posted by dan6712cc
Just got the kit from autozone today, it has a 14 mm thread that goes into the spark plug hole and an adapter for an air hose. I've had the kent moore for almost a month now, been planning on putting this cam in a for a while and finally will have some time off.
I want to do the gaskets but im not sure if I'll have enough time, how long do you think it would take to remove the heads and replace the gaskets? Pics would help out alot
Its really not that hard, since you already have the valvetrain completly out of the car. After that its just the power steering bracket (3 bolts) and the rear coolent line to the heads. (Thats ones a little tough but you can do it) Then unbolt the 17 bolts that hold each head on looking at each one to see what length goes where. (The 2 mid size go on the topside ends) Short bolts on the bottom and long bolts on the top.
I would suggest new arp bolts and the felpro gaskets. Torqued to spec in the sequence the manual says so. Also some of the bolt go into water jackets so you have to purchase the arp thread selent for those. I went ahead and put it on every bolt.
Its a good bit of work but you will never be this close to em again...might as well do it now...
When I did my cam/heads, I pulled the engine. It was out of the car for 2-3 weeks and I installed a lot of stuff (including a new Melling high volume oil pump).
I had also heard about the infamous "spun bearing" issue when doing a top end package on an LT1. So, when I put the engine back in, I pulled the fuel pump fuse and the coil wire. Once these were done, I cranked the engine over until I had good oil pressure (this took about four ten second cranks).
No spun bearings when I fired her up and drove her...
From: I'm the walkin dude I can see all of the world...
St. Jude Donor '03
Originally Posted by cprgmr
When I did my cam/heads, I pulled the engine. It was out of the car for 2-3 weeks and I installed a lot of stuff (including a new Melling high volume oil pump).
I had also heard about the infamous "spun bearing" issue when doing a top end package on an LT1. So, when I put the engine back in, I pulled the fuel pump fuse and the coil wire. Once these were done, I cranked the engine over until I had good oil pressure (this took about four ten second cranks).
No spun bearings when I fired her up and drove her...
Good tip. I've been worried because my swap is taking much longer than I thought it would. Lot of parts sitting w/o oil for a while.
When I did my cam/heads, I pulled the engine. It was out of the car for 2-3 weeks and I installed a lot of stuff (including a new Melling high volume oil pump).
I had also heard about the infamous "spun bearing" issue when doing a top end package on an LT1. So, when I put the engine back in, I pulled the fuel pump fuse and the coil wire. Once these were done, I cranked the engine over until I had good oil pressure (this took about four ten second cranks).
No spun bearings when I fired her up and drove her...
I got an oil pump primer shaft for that, sounds like your method is easier and cheaper
Also I was wondering why its necessary to prime the pump. After the cam install you fill the car back up with oil, so how is that different from any other time your car sits for 3-4 days undriven?