C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

New engine and "break-in"

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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 05:41 AM
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Default New engine and "break-in"

I stared my new engine for the first time yesterday. I drove it around 10miles, then changed oil + filter, using valvoline non-synth.

What is a good "break-in" procedure?

And I have noticed I got higher oilpressure now then Im used to with the old engine. Is that normal for a new engine? Its not radical higher, but its higher. I got no blue or black smoke. And the oil after my first change looked almost new, I also open up the filter, and got no debris in it.
Next after break-in is tuning

Thanks.
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 07:03 AM
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A change in oil pressure readings can be caused by a number of different things. If coolant temperature and RPMs are the same some of them are:

Bearing Clearances -Tighter clearances result in higher readings

Oil Viscosity - Straight 40 shows higher readings than straight 20, etc.

Oil Temperature - The higher the oil temp, the lower the reading goes

Oil Brand and Type - Valvoline 20/50 Racing shows higher readings than

Castrol 20/50 even though they're rated the same

Oil Pump - Gear and end clearances and anti-cavitation milling effects oil pressure

Rod Side Clearance - Wider clearances throw off more ol

Additional Oiling Holes Drilled - Holes drilled for timing chain oiling lowers pressure slightly

Oil Passage Size - Some builders re-size the oil passages in the block by drilling them larger

Length and Inside Diameter of Hose Runs to and from an Oil Cooler

Oil Leakage at Distributor Shaft - Some distributors now have "O" rings to minimize oil leakage in that area

Engine Idle Speed - Pressure will usually be higher in an engine idling at 850 than one idling at 550

Probably some others that I've forgotten too.

Jake
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by JAKE
A change in oil pressure readings can be caused by a number of different things. If coolant temperature and RPMs are the same some of them are:

Bearing Clearances -Tighter clearances result in higher readings

Oil Viscosity - Straight 40 shows higher readings than straight 20, etc.

Oil Temperature - The higher the oil temp, the lower the reading goes

Oil Brand and Type - Valvoline 20/50 Racing shows higher readings than

Castrol 20/50 even though they're rated the same

Oil Pump - Gear and end clearances and anti-cavitation milling effects oil pressure

Rod Side Clearance - Wider clearances throw off more ol

Additional Oiling Holes Drilled - Holes drilled for timing chain oiling lowers pressure slightly

Oil Passage Size - Some builders re-size the oil passages in the block by drilling them larger

Length and Inside Diameter of Hose Runs to and from an Oil Cooler

Oil Leakage at Distributor Shaft - Some distributors now have "O" rings to minimize oil leakage in that area

Engine Idle Speed - Pressure will usually be higher in an engine idling at 850 than one idling at 550

Probably some others that I've forgotten too.

Jake
wow thanks. So in my case it could be "Bearing Clearances" becuse my bottom has been rebuild with new bearings. Perhaps a bit thighter then before i guess. I hear about low oil pressure alot of times, but not high pressure.
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by devilfish
wow thanks. So in my case it could be "Bearing Clearances" becuse my bottom has been rebuild with new bearings. Perhaps a bit thighter then before i guess. I hear about low oil pressure alot of times, but not high pressure.
Just remember high pressure doesn't mean high volume.....pressure is just the resistance of oil flow.

In other words you could have high pressure, but no flow - which would starve the bearings of oil needed to cool them.

People tend to think high pressure is a GOOD sign, which in most cases it is good, so long as there is still good flow. Contrary, low pressure usually means that clearances are higher and could indicate bearing wear, which would promote high flow (loss) out of a specific bearing - causing bearing that are fed down stream to be starved.

Just some things to think about.....sound to me that you are fine.
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 09:10 AM
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Keep off the throttle until you get over 1000 miles.
Change the oil/filter again at 100, 250, 1000 miles and then revert to regular intervals.
Use the appropriate grade of regular motor oil for the 100 and 250 and 1000 intervals.
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by devilfish
I stared my new engine for the first time yesterday. I drove it around 10miles, then changed oil + filter, using valvoline non-synth.

What is a good "break-in" procedure?
I usually run the engines I build hard, to seat the rings quickly.

mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ski_dwn_it
Just remember high pressure doesn't mean high volume.....pressure is just the resistance of oil flow.

In other words you could have high pressure, but no flow - which would starve the bearings of oil needed to cool them.

People tend to think high pressure is a GOOD sign, which in most cases it is good, so long as there is still good flow. Contrary, low pressure usually means that clearances are higher and could indicate bearing wear, which would promote high flow (loss) out of a specific bearing - causing bearing that are fed down stream to be starved.

Just some things to think about.....sound to me that you are fine.
Thanks Ski!

I also start to wounder if my pressure censor is ok.Today when I started the car I got idle oilpressure at 75 psi1! Then when i touch the throttel it "bliped" to 85 psi, then back to 60 psi where it setteld.

Last edited by devilfish; Apr 29, 2005 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by tpi 421 vette
I usually run the engines I build hard, to seat the rings quickly.

mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

slowly warm up the engine to normal operating temps, then drive it like you stole it, remembering to vary throttle position and rpm over a wide range.
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by JCAIRE2
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

slowly warm up the engine to normal operating temps, then drive it like you stole it, remembering to vary throttle position and rpm over a wide range.
I agree, break in the engine the way you want it to run. So if it is a performance engine after it is warm up and everything is within normal parameters "Beat it like a two dollar mule!!
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 12:57 PM
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So just run it like you whant then?
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 01:13 PM
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I am all for the mototune break in process. It's the method that we followed for bastet44's 1987 coupe when I rebuilt that motor this past winter. And it is not consuming a drop!!!
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by bogus
I am all for the mototune break in process. It's the method that we followed for bastet44's 1987 coupe when I rebuilt that motor this past winter. And it is not consuming a drop!!!
well cant really make any WOT runs yet. as my tuning isnt done. and I dont whant to go lean on a new engine
But im going to runt it hard, and vary my rpms.
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