i dont post alot but been on here a long time mostley jusy reading here is my prob if you can help please i pushed my head light switch rod whateva you wana call it lights went down fine and then this awfull noise like a griding huming langalers are coming crunching noise i pulled the *** out a little just before fog lights come on and it dosent do it i know you go to the doc and say it hurts when i do this and he says well then dont do it lol any way if i push it to far in it does it it is a 86 vette coupe this is the first time it has ever done this and it is only on the drivers side light pasenger side does not make that sound at the race track a girl sat right on the drivers side light and i saw it push down but it looked fine after she got up just wondering why pasenger side pops down no sound but driver side makes all that woring sound motor ? switch ? gears? chick seting on it? any ideas greatley apriciated they still pop up and down and work fine just if i push switch in to far all that noise on driver side light? the chick was my wife lol

 

Whats the problem? The lights work and make a grinding noise.

Where's hippiehead? We need an interperter here.....

 

If the head lights work and they flip up and down.
I would say the black **** is spinning on the motor and it needs to be adjusted.
Unplug wires to the head light and rotate black **** until door is all the way shut.
Reconect plugs turn on lights and see what happends?

 

sounds like bushings to me.

 

! . , ' &-You might need those

 

Read this http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/Headlight%20Doors.pdf

 

thanx for the info but i dont get all that electric enganere stuff cant evean spell it right only know enough to make me dangerious i am thinking switch is wack as long as i dont push it in all the way it is fine lights are off no batery drain but wife always pushes it in to far and then freaks out she dosent get the concept of not pushing it in all the way or when it happens puling it out a couple of centameters she just freaks then i have to run out and pull it out the couple of centameters but it is probably just the switch that ruber adjuster on the light itself is hard to turn by hand can you put a wrench on the ruber to turn it? thank you for your help it is greatly apreciated i have done a tps cut the screens on maff adjustable fuel pres reg took off throtle body and cleaned when doing afpr water pump ac comp took out the fuel injectors and cleaned with a nine volt hooked up to a extra injector clip pig tail some tubing hooked up to the injector and 50 pounds psi from a compresor with injector cleaner in the tubing toch the 9 volt bat makes injector work open at short intervoles at a time a not to fry the injector got nicy nicy spray paterns now ram air burned chip lots of other stuff black majic boom stick will be put in soon but i am no good at electrical stuff so any help is realy apreciated but i think it is just a bad switch ty you guys rock last 1/4 mile time was 14 evan at rockey moutain 3 erd round elinations 4 th round i got sand baged a mustang dialed in at like 16 when it is a 13.80 car and sat at end of track and i broke out trying to catch em oh well lol i hate mustangs evan know i have 68 convertable in garage lol it needs to be restored

 

First, 86 lights are prone to have problems and GM doesn't make parts for them any more. GM redisigned the headlights in 88 because of all the problems with the original design.


When I had problems with my passenger side light on my 86 last years, I tried all sorts of things, trying to fix the "won't open" problem. I changed all three relays, located in the headlight well on the driver's side, and even removed and disassembled the headlight more than a few times. The Chevy dealer told me my only option was to upgrade both lights, etc., to the newer design, to the tune of over $600. I took a pass on that advice but I couldn't find anyone locally that could fix it.

I finally realized I was in over my head and boxed up the light and sent it to Corvette Central for repair. Cost just over $100, but it now works well.

Jake

 

ok got under the hood on my 86 i did not know they had those ***** on botom on side of light so you can manuly turn them up or down so i turn it head light goes up were it is suposed to but it is striped it will not hold when i turn it it gets tight goes were it is suposed to but clicks and drops down again so do i need those new sprocket gears from mid america they make plastic or bronze ones take that part with the **** of light and then what? how do you put them in is it hard? thank you very much for any info

 

i just read through the tech section here i did not know was here under other drop down but how hard is it to do how many hours would the dealer charge for ? i take what time the dealer calls for and double it and usaly that is how long i plan for doing it myself somtimes when they call for 4 hours i have done it in one lol musta been a good day for me lol they charge like eighty bucks an hour how much do the machanics actuly get out of that 10 bucks a hour?? that sucks any other tricks or things to make it go faster easer would be greatly apreciated should put spell check on here lol thank you guys

 

I read an article once that said not to use the metal gears. Something about the possibility of them damaging the motor.

Changine the gears, themselves, is a snap. It's removing all the the bolts and screws and remembering how to re-assemble everything that's the real problem.

Jake

 

Something about using the metal gears in the plastic housing of the earlier three wire units? I heard that if the motor jams it will blow the case apart. Not so with the later two wire units as the construction is different?

 

Why do people ALWAYS blame the bushings?! Earlier style do not have the bushing problem. I would guess either a stripped gear or the field magnets delaminated. Probably a stripped gear though.

Can the light be flipped up manualle if you disconnect the relay?

Please use SOME punctuation this time