Ski, i'd like to get a hold of you and chat about osme stuff here soon...
mind dropping me a line? fubar569@verizon.net

 

AllT4,

The reason you do the a burnout forward is to ensure that your tires do not stop where there is water. Also when I start moving forward out of the water I am not even close to full throttle. So when they grab, there is brarely any force on them at all. If I was on the gas hard it will easily spin the tires past the starting line

I am not sure I caught it on Dads video that I cut here, but if I did and you watch his burnout, he makes the mistake of stopping his burnout in the water then moves forward a little. You can see with just a tad bit of gas, with all the power he has, the car spins the tires a bit - cause they had water on them.

Also I like to do a little spinning forward to ensure the water that my front tires rolled out onto the track, are not pickuped up by my rear wheels.

Not to mention the drops of water that might be in the wheel wells still dripping onto the tires....

In the end you have to do what works best for you and you are comfortable with.

The reason I break 1/2 shafts is years of BRUTAL launches on them. Each of the two 1/2 shafts I have twisted in two came after several hundred launched on each of them. Hardly something I can me upset about. I have seen a 420 CI motored camaro last year - twist heavy duty strange axle - good to 1000hp into a spiral on the splined area.....all I can say is there is a TON of brutal torque going through these rears and I truely can't believe they take the power they do.

Trying to get a 3400+# car off the line to a mid 1.4 60' time is nothing short of a miracle if evrything holds together. 99% of the cars you see at the track running in the 10s are completely gutted out and weighting in at ~2500-2900#s and making a whole lot less power- therefore are a lot less abusive on parts. I can almost assure you that Dad will start to twist those strange axle splines if the car starts really hookin. Just just the nature of the beast...

 

Big,

The intake is a creation that I worked with Jeb ( here in the forum to test...you can contact him if you would like to get one.) Its a super victor intake...that many seem to be moving towards......

Someone asked for more videos.....I have some older ones....

http://www.azzatochips.com/videos/jes10_48.wmv

http://www.azzatochips.com/videos/Ski-10_47.wmv

Fastest the car has gone to date....
http://www.azzatochips.com/videos/10.33ski.wmv

I have taken the plunge with a Accel Gen7 system for the car...The new cam is more on the radical side than I had antisipated. The MAF and SD system both have been tuned for the driving part, but the WOT is tougher to get get now that the RPM never drop below 6k the whole way down the track with the 5k stall converter.....

I also wanted to get one of these systems to learn in the ins and outs of the aftermarket systems......

The new gen 7 system is pretty remarkable with its WOT closed loop AFR off a WB and other awesome features like 2 step control ect. The main reason is for consistancy between tracks and DA changes through the day. WIth the WB correcting for WOT afr the car should be very predictable, rather than trying to optimize track to track changes - at etown it usually takes about 3 runs to dial in the cars cause their air is so much better....with the gen7, my car should run the same AFR there or in colorado... Well it can only correct up to 25%...so low mid elevation colorado....

Also I know there are many "corks" the with the GM ECMs, with them trying to trim - when they experience different scenerios - these all lead to changes in the expected results. Which is why I still think the 870 ECM is the best for racing - short of the aftermarket stuff.

In the end you want an ECM to control spark and fuel - accurately and repeatably for racing....with the emissions work in the stock ECMs - they do VERY well - but they also trim and change things - and this leads to inconsistancy...I have seen my car go 3 rounds within a few hundredth of a second - then all of a sudden run .1 sec quicker with the same 60' times and DA.... Sumptin decided to change that run.....The main reason through is I just want to tinker with something new and see if I can eeek a few more ponies out of it.

For Redl98....no that run the car only ran a 1.53 60' time.....but that tranny is hitting super hard on the 1-2 shift,,,if you listen you can hear it break the tires loose... The trans did not really make the car loose any bottom end....but then again the upgrade to the 8" race converter might have made up for the gear loss....

 

thanks for the info. A buddy of mine was looking at the intake on my computer. He has a 87 vette.

I have a Brodix 18* top end kit that I plan on converting from carb to efi one of these days.

 

allt4 you might have something there i do agree with you from the initial shock load breaking parts i never come out of the burn out under full throtle to dry pavemant i just get the tires hot let off the gas and drift forward then do a couple of dry hops maybe thats why i am not breaking no where near as many parts as other forum members and still pulling super low 1.4s 60ft in the process

 

hey cork,

what up going on with the vette?? any new times ?

 

OH MAN the chevelle is moving ..very nice.

Jessie is right it takes quite a bit to get the in the 1.4 60' times.

The way i do my burn out is ( i have no line lock) hold the break, give the car 1-2 throttle, shift into 2nd, count to 2 and let off the break, as the car starts moving forward i slowly start letting off the gas. You should never feel the car jerk from coming out of the water box, it should be very smooth. Not to disc Corky, but I disagree with dry hops, this puts a full load in both directions on the drive train and is simply not needed. I remember watching Spiro Papas run a 1.23 60' on a 8.25 pass with barley any smoke coming off his tires in the water box and pulling the car straight to the line. I think too many people do way too big of a burnout ? IMO.

With this method and a 3000 lbs race weight I have gotten a 1.46 60' on 26X11.5 X16 Et streets with the D-36 and it's still fine. Well for now.


Mike

 

Nice

 

you are not dissing me ive been drag racing since the late 70s early 80s and i would say ive seen thosands of cars run right to the line without any dry hops and drag some water or oter foreghn matter and spin and lose
guess what that scenerio doesnt happen to me because i know before i put the car in the beams if it will hook or not then i will take the appropiate approach thats what expierience will do for you

 

I'm not a dry hop fan either... And, in running a NHRA Super Stocker I CAN tell you that it really pisses off the track workers. Every time you do a dryhop it tears a 3"x8" patch of rubber off the line. Not to mention it's an extra shock load that your car doesn't need AND it scrubs some of the sticky off the tires you just worked so hard burning on... Go watch a Pro Stock racer...Ever see WJ do a dry hop??? Or KJ, or Jeggy, or Greg A.??? Nope...There's a reason for that. I don't slam someone else for doing one because: A) That may be their "routine," and it's hard to get out of. B) It's none of my business until it affect ME, which it's never done. Whatever you think makes for the best passes for YOU is exactly what you need to do.

As for debris, I doubt dry hops really shake that much off the car (which SHOULDN'T be on there to begin with at a properly maintained facility). I usually have a spotter/crew member with me that makes sure all the crap is off the tires and helps me stage the car... Of course, there are lots of times running a street car that you don't have that advantage.
-Jeb